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Ballet

June 14, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Dance!

Publication: 032c Magazine Summer 2015  Model: Anja Rubik, Stephen Galloway, Cora Emmanuel  Photographer: Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin  Fashion Editor: Mel Ottenberg

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Posted in Editorials 032c Anja Rubik Cora Emmanuel Dance Editorial Fashion Fashion Photography Inez Vinoodh Photography Stephen Galloway

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BIG FEELINGS ✨ #DACBE: For this season’s #Schiaparelli #HauteCouture collection, #DanielRoseberry took this idea of “being in conversation with the people who had been so inspired by her” - from Christian Lacroix to Yves Saint Laurent. It was all a “mash-up between something that felt incredibly modern and then also wildly romantic.” More on the JOURNAL 🪶 #Couture #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #FranzVonStuck #ElsaSchiaparelli #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌾 #collage by me.

ROUGH & ELEGANT 🦇 #DACBE: This is #PieterMulier‘s third season for #Alaïa. The Belgian designer has already proved that he understands the codes of #AzzedineAlaïa, and is capable to convey them to a contemporary audience with grace, sophistication and refinement. The #SS23 fashion show, which opened the haute couture week in #Paris, was, however, the designer’s most turbulent line-up. It seems that Mulier wanted to tackle far too many Alaïa themes and in the end, the collection read as overcharged and, well, messy. Of course, each garment put separate is a masterful work of artistry and tailoring – we are speaking of Monsieur Alaïa’s studio know-how – but the overall of the collection needed an edit. More on the JOURNAL 🌹 #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #Couture #HauteCouture #RianneVanRompaey #GraceJones #DACBECOLLECTIONS ❤️‍🩹 #collage by me, music: “Tia Tamera” by Doja Cat and Rico Nasty.

PREPPY SAILORS ⚓️ #DACBE: The #ThomBrowne men’s show started with a chic happening: guests cheered as the likes of Marisa Berenson and Debra Shaw scrambled to find their seats dressed in the finest TB tweeds. This group of brand muses acted as couture clients in the maison’s mock-up salon, as 34 boys came carrying numbered paddles like the haute couture shows back in the day. Prim and proper suit jackets in delicate fabrics and pastel hues came anchored by barley-there mini skirts (Miu Miu has a serious competition) and jockstraps in red, white and blue. The boys adopted the uniforms of sailors and surfers, as well as tennis players and cowboys, by way of Browne’s signature shrunken and supersized proportions. More on the JOURNAL ⛵️ #ParisFashionWeek #Paris #PFW #Tweed #SailorBoy #WilliamTurner #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🪝 #collage by me.

AND THE LIVING’S EASY 💛 #DACBE: #RosieAssoulin has you packed for the resort season. What’s in the luggage? The whimsical blue striped taffeta gown with awning-details will do the work in Hamptons. The collection’s hero piece, the transformable rainbow silk gown, is ready for a trip to sun-drenched Capri. Sweet polka-dots covered the red dress with a bustier bodice – this one can be easily pictured worn around Sevilla. Assoulin doesn’t do themes, she rather focuses on instincts and what feels right at the moment. In a troublesome world, a care-free wardrobe of summer-perfect clothes sparks joy. More on the JOURNAL 💐 #Paris #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #Resort2023 #JoyOfDressing #HelloHappiness #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌺 #collage by me, music: “Delirio De Grandeza” by Rosalía.

ESSENTIALISM 🌞 #DACBE: Essentialism has always coursed through the veins of #TheRow. This season, #AshleyOlsen and #MaryKateOlsen took it to sublime heights. Shot in the streets of Paris and presented in the Galerie Seguin, their #SS23 collection portrayed the daily lives of their customers and the way we adapt to changing scenarios throughout the day. Whether it’s different levels of formality – office hours, lunch dates, evening events – or the inside-vs.-outside temperature differences we all increasingly have to deal with in a climate change reality, the clothes we actually wear now have to imbued with certain functions and assets to actually work in our everyday lives. More on the JOURNAL 🐚 #OlsenTwins #OlsenStyle #WildBeach #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌾 #collage by me, music: “Leader of a New Regime” by Lorde.

Sea time 🤍 There’s this wild beach on the Polish coastline that just always feels so intimate and untouched 🌹 Johanna Schopenhauer used to write that the monk in Caspar David Friedrich’s painting finds the absolute in the uncountable and infinite number of sea waves. Today I’ve counted three swans… 🦢 #BalticSea

🐎🌞🐛🦋🌺 #BeachLife

Solar power 💛 #BeachLife

Wearing SPF 3000 for the ultraviolet rays

Happy Birthday Mum ❤️ @queenclassics 🌹 #ByTheBeach #SummerTime #SeaSide

WE HAVE ART NOT TO DIE OF THE TRUTH ❤️ #DACBE: #MarcJacobs quoted Friedrich Nietzsche in his #AW22 show notes. Confronted with the brutal state of things, from rogue Supreme Court determined to strip women of their reproductive rights to Clarence Thomas threatening to attack gay marriage next, fury may give way to despair. But that’s not where Jacobs is at. “Creativity is essential to living,” his statement read. More about this F-A-S-H-I-O-N collection on the JOURNAL ❣️ #NewYork #LifeImitatesArt #BeBold #DACBECOLLECTIONS ❤️‍🔥 #collage by me, music: “I Want You” by Moloko.

GRADUATION 🐣 #DACBE: The second collection by #Nigo for #Kenzo marked a double graduation. The first was that Nigo is increasingly finding the levels and detail of denim (now all sourced from Japan) and workwear production here much more aligned with his expectations as a connoisseur, thanks to evolution within Kenzo. Secondly, a graduation is what this show was staged to remind us of. Nigo said he’d used the concept of a passing out ceremony – inspired by a 1980s show by Kenzo Takada based on a sports day – in order to present an otherwise diverse group of dressed characters under the same banner: this was Kenzo’s class of ’23. More on the JOURNAL 🦆 #PFW #Paris #ParisFashionWeek #VintageStyle #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🐛 #collage by me.

LE PAPIER 🤍 #DACBE: What’s “Le Papier” like? Working with a brute hand and humble-yet-lovely materials, #Jacquemus was repositioning his brand and his look away from the Pop vibes of recent years and towards something more finessed. “I started working on the collection with the obsession to restart from nothing, like a white page,” he said. The first two things he filled his page with were ideas of comfort and couture; “every couture,” he elaborated, talking about fusing the security of a blanket or pillow with the easy drama of a pleated ball skirt or cocoon jacket. His wedding, set to take place in the South in two months, also influenced the scene: the show began with two models hugging and dancing. Shearling coats, puffer vests, flirty dresses, fluffy accessories and cargo pants are the #AW22 essentials, and here he had loosened up the shapes for a more serene spirit, adding his new Humara sneaker in collaboration with #Nike. More on the JOURNAL 🗒 #MicaArganaraz #WhiteDress #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🖋 #collage by me.

STATE OF SOUL ❤️‍🔥 #DACBE: “It’s about being present. Putting down your phone. Being with your friends and people you love. Seeing the sun go down and feeling the wind and having a party. Not just a 10-minute show. With all these people coming, I just wanted to give them a good time and to feel like a community – and honestly I think that was really here. So this is what #StateOfSoul means.” This is how #MarineSerre explained #SS23 collection’s title and concept, presented to nearly a thousand guests who scored public tickets for the show. More on the JOURNAL 🌜 #LourdesLeon #Paris #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌞 #collage by me.

WEAPON-WEAR 🔥 #DACBE: “Before, I would cut myself off from expressing in certain ways because I thought I shouldn’t do that,” #MowalolaOgunlesi said before her Paris debut. But the designer learned that “whatever feeds me, I should just do it.” What was feeding #Mowalola this season was thievery and evolving her aesthetic beyond the trenches, tees, and accessories she is known for. She titled her collection “Burglarwear,” inspired by all types of criminals, from kidnappers to stockbrokers to the priesthood. More on the JOURNAL 💥 #ParisFashionWeek #PFW #Paris #ArnoldBöcklin #DACBECOLLECTIONS ☄️ #collage by me.

GROW 🌱 #DACBE: It’s safe to say that #JonathanAnderson’s #SS23 menswear collection for #Loewe was the most mind-blowing moment of the season. Fashion is on the brink of entering the Metaverse, and arguably our human consciousness is already fused with our digital devices: Jonathan Anderson marked the moment with an intriguing exploration around the subjects of perception, nature and progress. “A fusion of the organic and the fabricated,” he called it. More on the JOURNAL 🍃 #PFW #Paris #ParisFashionWeek #MotherNature #HiTech #PaulaUlarguiEscalona #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌿 #collage by me, music: “Germination” by Ryuichi Sakamoto.

GERMINATION 🌱 #DACBE: It’s safe to say that #JonathanAnderson’s #SS23 menswear collection for #Loewe was the most mind-blowing moment of the season. Fashion is on the brink of entering the Metaverse, and arguably our human consciousness is already fused with our digital devices: Jonathan Anderson marked the moment with an intriguing exploration around the subjects of perception, nature and progress. “A fusion of the organic and the fabricated,” he called it. More on the JOURNAL 🍃 #PFW #Paris #ParisFashionWeek #MotherNature #HiTech #PaulaUlarguiEscalona #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌿 #collage by me, music: “Germination” by Ryuichi Sakamoto.

FULL BLOOM 🌷 #DACBE: At #Dior, #KimJones does what he does best: combining contemporary elegance with art references, creating menswear that’s profound and desirable. #SS23 is about two houses, joined by a garden in full bloom: Christian Dior’s Granville in Normandy and Charleston in Sussex, where 20th century bohemian #BloomsburyGroup created and thrived. Owned by the artists #VanessaBell and #DuncanGrant, who pursued their free-love gender non-conforming lifestyle with guests in the isolated countryside away from London, it’s a place that became Jones’ favourite point of reference in the last years. More on the JOURNAL 🌾 #ParisFashionWeek #PFW #Paris #CharlestonFarmhouse #Menswear #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌸 #collage by me.

PARIS 🥐 #DACBE: For #SS23, #Ami went for the timeless, effortless and somewhat cliché, but always très cool theme: the Parisian chic. For the fashion show, the guests were at the top of #Paris, in the grounds of La basilique du Sacré-Cœur with the city laid out below, gleaming in the sunny dusk. Catherine Deneuve and Carla Bruni were in the audience alongside Naomi Campbell and Jonathan Bailey. Extraordinarily, #AudreyTautou – Sacré-Cœur’s Amelie herself – was lured out of her long public retreat to open the show. More on the JOURNAL 👄 #ParisianChic #AlexandreMattiussi #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🥖 #collage by me.

VIBE SHIFT 🍇 #DACBE: For #DriesVanNoten, the #SS23 menswear collection wasn’t just a bold return to the Parisian runway, but also an aesthetics shift. “The Zazous in Paris in the 1940s, and Buffalo in London in the 1980s. Both were in periods which were a bit similar. Hard times. So we wanted to make our own version of that.” In these, our disturbingly Right-swinging times, you could catch the significance of the timing behind Van Noten’s wanting to work a queer anti-authoritarian reference. More on the JOURNAL 🍷 #Paris #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #Menswear #Dandy #Burgundy #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🥀 #collage by me.

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