New but Old. Courreges SS16

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It’s difficult to make an old fashion house relevant. Hiring Sebastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, the designers behind a very young and yet not widely known label Coperni Femme seems to be crazy, if we take the house of Courreges as the case. Courreges, during its times of prominence (60’s & 70’s) was described as MODERN and INNOVATIVE. These two words were certainly the keywords of the debut SS16 collection, which felt refreshing, but not ground-breaking as in past, when Andre Courreges introduced these two abstract terms to the fashion industry. This collection was the biggest A-skirt parade that I have ever seen – the 60’s scanalous mini-skirts were featured in blue, yellow, red, white and many other colours, just like the crew-neck jumpers. The jackets were the revamped versions of the famous Courreges bikers, but without that infamous kitschy logo. Everything looked sleek and plastic-fantastic (note the shoes) – however, I am not sure what’s the sense of all that brand rebirth.

We’ve already got Paco Rabanne designed by Julien Dossena, which is also revisiting the past. Effect? Good collections, but the futuristic spirit of Paco will never comeback. The audience won’t say “WOW” again to these chain-dresses. The same with Courreges – these clothes from Meyer’s and Vaillant’s collection won’t shock anyone today, as they already had their moment in fashion history. Both the designers handled a great brand (Coperni Femme is actually hibernating due to Courreges) with a great idea and vision. Their first collection at Coperni was really exciting, as it was totally new. And now, when I see their recent work at Courreges, I have one question in my mind – who will buy those jackets? Don’t we have other labels with great, leather jackets? We live in a generation of ideas and creativity, so why don’t the major fashion concerns look forward to expanding brands founded and designed by the new-breed designers? Making old look like new is not always a good idea, unless you are Alessandro Michele (the creative director of Gucci). I just truly hope that Sebastien and Arnaud won’t waste their priceless five minutes at Courreges.

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