They were the ones who discreetly made frayed and cut denim cool again; they made 90’s vibe strong and most noticeable this year. Also, the Portuguese couple of Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida won the LVMH Prize Award this year for their major impact in new-gen fashion. Marques Almeida‘s designer duo just couldn’t be not listed in 2015’s favourites!
AW15 – For ther winter collection, the label shows their signature denim, but also brings a lot of new ideas – knitted dresses, jacquard knot-tops, lilac furs and polished leather accessories. Models marched to the sounds of Bjork’s 1995 “Army of Me”, haveing their hair done in undone, grungy way. The attitude reminded me of Corinne Day’s photography from the 90’s, as “it was a lot about those shoots where you would have these really expensive garments with a wrecked sofa”. Hell yeah.
Resort’16 – After winning the LVMH Prize, Marques Almeida quickly updated their brand schedule, by introducing a new season to it – resort. And for their first resort collection, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida went to Brazil with their muse, Sofia. The effect? A collection filled with affordable clothes, which have a very specific M’A signature attached to them. Special denim tops with ruffles; grungy silhouettes; bold colours. And lovely dresses which were styled in unusually elegant way. Loose-weave light knits were slashed and knotted just like their tattered T-shirts, which came reinvented here as beachwear. Digital jungle-print silks and florals were a clash of femininity and the typical rawness Marques Almeida has in its codes. It is worth to mention, that going to Brazil was worth it – the clothes looked laid-back and appealingly slouchy.
SS16 – Marques Almeida’s recent London outing for spring-summer 2016 seemed to be not only the most daring, but also commerce-wise. The sheer, ruffled dresses and skirts looked flowing and truly romantic. The collection had a fresh, lady-like tendency and a dose of edgy, over-sized silhouettes. And the linen top with feather-appliqued shoulder stole the spotlight of the last London Fashion Week day. Simultaneously, their best-selling denim trousers and tops were just slightly changed, in order to keep the Marques Almeida best-seller fresh. If you ask me, this collection showed that Marques Almeida is not plainly about apparel, but also about avant-garde fashion.