Everybody was excited about the wave of fresh, young talents taking over London Fashion Week’s scene. But the changes (or rather reforms) taking place at Burberry were on everybody’s lips since day one. The title of this post seems to be awkward at a glance: “Burberry AW16”. Wait, but didn’t Christopher Bailey, the creative director and CEO of the brand, presented his autum-winter 2016 collection back in March? Indeed. But this what you will see now is the continuation of the winter season, and it’s also a first peek at Burberry’s new business model, which slightly differs from Tom Ford‘s or Hillier Bartley‘s. In fact, the collection is called “September 2016”, and it became available minutes after the actual show took place in nearly all Burberry boutiques world-wide, and on-line. Impressive.
By coincidence (or not, perhaps) I’m much more into winter collections than the summer ones. Basically, it’s getting cold, and seeing a line of great shearling jackets, boots with tassels and over-sized knitwear appeals to me naturally. That said, Burberry presented over 140 looks of warming goodness. The models, who looked like the gender-switching protagonist from Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, are somewhere between shirts with ruffled accordion detailing from the Elizabethan era, and opulent, jacquard dresses. The exquisitely crafted cavalry jacket stole my heart with its intricate English regalia and a very sleek silhouette. Satin pajama shirts and velvet pants for men – Bailey nailed it. In some places, the collection is similar to Alessandro Michele’s poetic debut season at Gucci. But the distinct Burberry signatures, like the iconic trench coat, remind you we’re in London, not Milan.
I forgot when was the last time I LOVED a Burberry collection, or at least didn’t yawn during one. I think “September 2016” is my first real love affair with this British brand, due to many reasons – the innovative business strategy, the mood, the clothes. It all works for me. And I’m drooling for those boots with tassels.