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Madhouse Tales

July 10, 2017July 10, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Mad about fashion, fashion is about madness.

Publication: W Magazine August 2017 Model: Anna Ewers, Julia Nobis, Natalie Westling Photographer: Jamie Hawkesworth Fashion Editor: Edward Enninful Hair: Jimmy Paul Make Up: Dick Page

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Posted in Editorials Anna Ewers Dick Page Editorial Edward Enninful Fashion Photography Jamie Hawkesworth Jimmy Paul Julia Nobis Natalie Westling Photography W Magazine

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PARISIAN CROWD 🖤 #DACBE: This was one, big, star-studded #Ami collection. “We have done two digital shows and now we’re back. It’s a kind of resistance,” said #AlexandreMattiussi backstage at his #AW22 fashion show. The designer had the Métro on his mind: “It’s the only place today in a city where everybody is on top of each other. There’s an old lady, a guy coming out from a party, a guy who is on the way to work, kids, grandmothers, different vibes, different cultures. This is the only place where you don’t have the choice of who you will be seated with,” he observed. “It’s a democratic thing. And Ami is about dressing everyone.” In the label’s world, #IsabelleAdjani and Laetitia Casta commute too, and wear timeless clothes that draw heavily on the French wardrobe tropes. More on the JOURNAL 🚇 #Paris #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #BenAttal #ParisianChic #Brassai #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🎞 #collage by me.

POETIC OUTERWEAR 🤍 #DACBE: #HedMayner’s #AW22 collection exists in the space “between despair and ultimate hope“. The Israeli designer explained further: “But I am thinking about the space between you and the garment, layered and protected…you are in a bubble.” Mayner speaks like a poet and he designs like one too, operating instinctively and emotionally, more interested with how a garment will feel on the skin, move about the body, and imprint on a life than how cool it looks or how hype-y it is. More on the JOURNAL 🕊 #Paris #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #OuterWear #PufferJacket #Menswear #MansFashion #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🧡 #collage by me.

REFINEMENT 🕶 #DACBE: #UmitBenan, one of the best #Milan-based menswear (and not only) designers, focuses on uncompromisingly manufactured and painstakingly designed ultra-luxe clothing. For the #AW22 offering, modelled by the always-chic #GiovanniDarioLaudicina, some of the finest pieces included a workwear-inspired essentials (mostly in double cashmere) and investment tailoring. “At the end of day, I don’t want to mess too much with design. The emphasis is on great stuff, stuff that’s so great you want to come back and buy it again”. More on the JOURNAL 🌹 #MFW #MilanFashionWeek #Menswear #ManFashion #Tailoring #TimelessClassics #DACBECOLLECTIONS ☕️ #collage by me.

EMBRACE THE WEIRDNESS 🗝 #DACBE: For #AW22, #JonathanAnderson embraces all things “weird”, and aesthetically navigates between the 1980s (sparkly party dresses) and the now trending, early 2010s “indie sleaze” (metallic lycra jumpsuits). #JWAnderson is all about the “weird”. When Anderson detects weirdness, he is not repelled but stimulated: for him “odd” and “bad taste” hold creative opportunity. More on the JOURNAL 🍭 #Milan #MFW #MilanFashionWeek #WeirdCore #IndieSleaze #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🕷 #collage by me, music: “Which Way” by FKA Twigs and Dystopia.

COSMIC DANDY 🪐 #DACBE: For #AW22, #Prada “ate” (that’s how TikTok kids communicate that something is absolutely brilliant). There are two reasons why this collection, which opens the fourth season of #MiucciaPrada and #RafSimons‘ ever-exciting creative dialogue, is truly mind-blowing.

WILD ‘N PREPPY 🌲 #DACBE: #KeanEtro‘s #AW22 collection is to die for! The #Etro offering for men delivered rushes of wildness and preppy, a combination that isn’t that easy to pull off. Royal velvets meet knitted sweaters with tearings; shearling jackets with folklorish embroideries styled with slightly scruffy, vintage-y denim pants; wolf motif layered over the brand’s signature paisley pattern. This is certainly a wardrobe for lovers of eclectic dandy-ness with a hedonistic twist. More on the JOURNAL 🐺 #Milan #MFW #MilanFashionWeek #LeonDame #WildThings #Knitwear #Menswear #ManFashion #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🪲 #collage by me.

IL NUOVO ABITO 🏔 #DACBE: Men’s #MilanFashionWeek has officially started! And here’s lesson number one: you just can’t go wrong with #Zegna. I know it myself – I’ve got a couple of my dad’s clothes coming from the brand, and really, this brand is not just timeless, but its quality is indestructible. #AlessandroSartori, Zegna’s creative director, embraces what the Italian brand stands for with every season, delivering absolutely desirable, refined and relevant investment pieces for a contemporary man. For #AW22, Sartori said he was presenting “il nuovo abito“: the new suit. Yet this collection represented something far bolder than that. More on the JOURNAL ❄️ #Milan #MFW #Menswear #ManFashion #Tailoring #WomenInLove #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌨 #collage by me.

LESS IS (REALLY) MORE 🔗 #DACBE: It’s no secret that #VictoriaBeckham‘s brand had some rough time financially. Wisely, the company scaled-down to its main line, at the same time incorporating a lower price point and limiting the range of new products. Looking at Beckham’s #PreFall2022 offering, this new approach has a positive effect on the designs. Less is really more. We’ve got great, business-ready tailoring, a fine balance of neutrals and neons (Victoria certainly understands that a wardrobe has to offer different attitudes, depending on the wearer’s ever-changing mood), and languid dresses that come with sexy zip details and erotic cut-outs. More on the JOURNAL 🖇 #London #Tailoring #SoftMininalism #SoChic #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🔍 #collage by me.

SIGNATURES 🦀 #DACBE: People might find #ThomBrowne’s work monotonous, if they look at it superficially. Gray wool suit, pleated skirt, rakish tie – these distinct Browne signatures are always there. However, Browne rarely does the same thing twice. His #PreFall2022 collection is a surprising exercise in revisiting the ultimate house codes. More on the JOURNAL 🦞 #NewYork #Tailoring #SeaLife #Crustaceans #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🦐 #collage by me.

UTILITARIAN ROMANTICISM 🐛 #DACBE: In his second menswear collection, #ErdemMoralioglu goes for a laid-back, streetwear-ish approach – something you rarely see in his often dramatic women’s offering. “Utilitarian romanticism” is how the #London-based designer summed up his newest creative venture. He has a point: in a world where people wear couture-house joggers to dinner, and even #Erdem surrenders to sporty dress codes, streetwear is really just daywear. “It’s a boiled fleece hoodie with a tailored, nipped jogger,” he said of the collection’s most informal look. Erdem’s men’s world has a relaxed, almost light-hearted quality about it - more on the JOURNAL 🪡 #LFW #Menswear #ManFashion #DomenicoGnoli #GoGreen #DACBECOLLECTIONS 💚 #collage by me.

EUPHORIC EROTIC 👄 #DACBE: “Euphoric” and “erotic” – this is how one might describe #AnthonyVaccarello‘s #Resort2022 collection for #SaintLaurent. It’s not only because you can imagine nearly every “#Euphoria” character (have you seen the first episode of season 2? Mind-blowing!) wearing all the YSL feathers and sexy, body-conscious silhouettes to their quite dramatic parties (actually, #MaddyPerez would perfectly pull it off to school). The collection is totally hedonist and free-spirited, both wearable and spotlight-stealing. More on the JOURNAL 💄 #AnjaRubik #YSL #Madonna #ExpressYourself #ParisianChic #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🍧 #collage by me, music: “Human Nature” by Madonna.

ULTRA-LADY 🎀 #DACBE: There are those collections in fashion history that just get better with time. For a while now, I’m absolutely obsessed with #LouisVuitton‘s #AW10 – one of the best collections created by #MarcJacobs for the French maison. “And God Created Woman” announced the program, bringing up thoughts of the era of the young Bardot, of fifties-sixties wasp waists, and circle skirts. At the time, #MadMen was on everyone’s minds and TV screens (those were the pre-Netflix times…), and that same season, Miuccia Prada also went for the retro ultra-femininity. Jacobs’ collection was stark contrast casting-wise (lets not forget 2010 was peak time of the super-skinny-model standard) as the designer called on Laetitia Casta, Bar Refaeli, Catherine McNeil, Karolina Kurkova, and finally Elle Macpherson, all women whose physical attributes have acted as a disqualification for fashion show participation for years. More on the JOURNAL 🌹 #Paris #LadyLike #BarbaraPalvin #JuliaNobis #JessicaMiller #CircleSkirt #DACBECOLLECTIONS 💖 #collage by me, music: “Vaya con dios” by Kali Uchis.

BRAND TO LOVE: ZANKOV 🐬 #DACBE: #HenryZankov, an experienced, #NewYork-based knitwear designer, concepted his namesake brand to inject a sense of playfulness, freshness and ease into men’s and women’s knitwear. #Zankov is a knitwear collection that establishes a new visual and tactile language with a strong emphasis on color, touch, pattern and quality. More on the JOURNAL 🐡 #Knitwear #Knitting #SweaterWeather #EmergingBrands #StripesOnStripes 🐠 #collage by me.

This year was exhausting, difficult and painful, but it had some beautiful moments. Time for the new! 🌞 #2021

HER WORLD 🪁 #DACBE: The heartbeat of #Batsheva has always been designer #BatshevaHay herself. The tenor of the off-kilter, easy and somehow glamorous #PreFall2022 feels right as we kiss 2021 goodbye and look forward to the first (we hope) good new year in a while. More on the JOURNAL 🌼 #NewYork #PrairieDress #NewYearNewMe #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🦢 #collage by me.

ECLECTIC ELEGANCE ❄️ #DACBE: The celebration of individuality is what drives creatively #LukeMeier and #LucieMeier at #JilSander. “For us it’s really important, the idea of working around the character,” they told Vogue during a preview of the #PreFall2022 line-up. “The person in its humanity and uniqueness is at the center of our creativity.” More on the JOURNAL 🐻 #Milan #WinterWonderland #SoftMinimalism #SnowDay #DACBECOLLECTIONS ☃️ #collage by me.

SUITS & INTARSIA 🏔 #DACBE: For #PreFall2022, #ThomBrowne‘s models sport inches-long falsies and tote leather lobster bags and backpacks in a display that is so provocatively Surrealist it recalls Elsa Schiaparelli’s daring 1937 dress with a crustacean across the crotch. Browne’s version relies less on the obvious pun of that exoskeletal creature – he says the lobster is just the latest of the animals he has welcomed into his zoo – and more an examination of the beauty of skirting on men. It’s a continuation of ideas he started nearly 20 years ago but have taken hold of late, with Dan Levy and Lee Pace wearing Browne’s skirts on the red carpet. More on the JOURNAL ⛷ #NewYork #ApresSki #Tiloring #ManSkirt #Intarsia #DACBECOLLECTIONS ❄️ #collage by me.

Merry Christmas darlings 💝 #ChristmasMood #FestiveSeason #Prada #AW21 #MiucciaPrada #RafSimons 💘 #collage by me.

REAL SUSTAINABLE ANSWERS 🌞 #DACBE: It’s nearly a year since #GabrielaHearst took #Chloé under her wings, and it’s quite unbelievable how many sustainability goals the designer has already achieved. And those aren’t just words – numbers and statistics don’t lie. “To give you the exact facts, 70% of the product offer since I came in became lower impact. Compared to my first collection, (what) we did is up 40%”, she summed up. But her #PreFall2022 collection for the Parisian maison also proves that sustainable thinking can look refined and chic. More on the JOURNAL 🐚 #Chloe #Paris #SustainableFashion #Sustainability #SustainablyMade #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🪴 #collage by me.

IDIOSYNCRASY 🌈 #DACBE: #ChristopherJohnRogers is one of the best things that has happened to American fashion in a while. His amazing garments, always pulsing with colour, energy and statement-making silhouettes, aren’t just red carpets regulars, but wardrobe staples of women with their own, very personal, idiosyncratic style. In his #PreFall2022 line-up, the designer takes notes from his first experiences of fashion. More on the JOURNAL 💥 #NewYork #BeBold #StatementDress #CelebrateLife #EveningWear #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🪐 #collage by me.

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