Carven‘s identity had its down moment lately, after seasons of poor creative direction. The last time Carven sparked sensation was when Guillaume Henry (the current designer at Nina Ricci) injected youthful chic into the historic, but not very meaningful label. Hopefully, similar interest in the brand will be sparked by Serge Ruffieux, an alum of Sonia Rykiel, who had an eight-year long tenure at Dior (he worked under Galliano, Gaytten, Simons and finally as the main designer with Lucie Meier before Maria Grazia Chiuri entered the house).
Carven is a perfect place for a designer to develop creatively, because it’s not a fully established brand with hundreds of stores; moreover, its style codes are free of interpretation. Still, Ruffieux decided to revive Carven’s signature colour – green. Shooting jackets, mid-length skirts, edgy crop-tops were kept in nearly every shade of green, from dark olive to light pistachio. But there was also the trending pastel pink, as if there’s no way to escape it this season. Loved the footwear – the tasseled, Gommino-style sandals and loafers looked great up-close. In overall, the collection was a safe debut, filled with smartly fitted pieces. Time will show how Serge plans to take the brand forward.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.