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November 16, 2017November 16, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Publication: Vogue UK December 2017 Model: Adwoa Aboah, Alewya Demmisse, Edie Campbell, Jean Campbell, Olympia Campbell, Matilda Lowther Photographer: Juergen Teller Fashion Editor: Venetia Scott Hair: Syd Hayes Make Up: Lucia Pica

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Posted in Editorials Adwoa Aboah Alewya Demmisse Edie Campbell Editorial Fashion Photography Jean Campbell Juergen Teller Lucia Pica Matilda Lowther Olympia Campbell Photography Syd Hayes Venetia Scott Vogue UK

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TOTAL FANTASY 🎨 #DACBE: #JeremyScott‘s #AW21 collection for #Moschino is hilariously good. Forget the lockdown-and-loungewear talk. Here’s total, camp fantasy. More on the JOURNAL 🎪 #Milan #MFW #KarenElson #LifeImitatesArt #ArtImitatesLife #TableuxVivants #TrompeLOeil #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🪗 #collage by me.

EASY OPULENCE 🍬 #DACBE: #MiucciaPrada and #RafSimons‘ joined vision for #Prada starts to unravel. It’s elusive, enigmatic and far from straightforward – and what’s most important, exciting. #AW21 is the second full season coming from those two brilliant fashion minds, and while the debut left many hungry for more, the latest line-up has the virtual audience in awe. More on the JOURNAL ✨ #Milan #MFW #Opulence #MeretOppenheim #BillieHoliday #SoChic #NewElegance #DACBECOLLECTIONS 💥 “live” #collage by me.

It’s one year since you’re not with us, but I still hear your little footsteps. Love you. I’m sure you are somewhere in the Universe, as a little star. ❤️ #Rubi #ForeverLove

HOT CONFIDENCE 🌹 #DACBE: #Blumarine is hot! #NicolaBrognano‘s debut last season proved that he (with #LottaVolkova’s styling help) has a plan for this Italian brand that once was the synonym of sexy, carefree glamour. More about the #AW21 collection on the JOURNAL ❣️ #Milan #MFW #RedRose #SoChic #Madonna #HelmutNewton #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🍬 #collage by me.

PROPER CLASSICS 🌞 #DACBE: #KimJones‘ first collection for #Fendi, which was a haute couture line-up starring the designer’s friends like Demi Moore, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, polarised the audience. Surprisingly, his ready-to-wear debut wasn’t such noteworthy event – no big names among the models, and instead of some sort of Insta-extravaganza, we’ve seen a very classic, proper Fendi collection. More on the JOURNAL ☕️ P.s. This fur is upcycled! 🍮 #Milan #MFW #AW21 #FendiFur #Rome #LaDolceVita #TheClassics #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🍁 #collage by me.

A DANCER 🦢 #DACBE: #ErdemMoralioglu delivered a mesmerising collection for #AW21. Conceived in the realm of ballet, #Erdem’s line-up freeze-framed a dancer’s wardrobe between the stages of rehearsal and performance. More on the JOURNAL 🩰 #London #LFW #BalletDancer #AlfredHitchcock #Rebecca #Elegance #IbKamara #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🎭 #collage by me.

IN FOLKLORE WE TRUST 🌷 #DACBE: In #London, the new-gen designers thrive. #EmmaChopova and #LauraLowena, the design duo behind #ChopovaLowena, have always fused traditional folklore with sportswear, and this season they keep on building their style vocabulary. For #AW21, they put emphasis on the ‘uniform’ - and some new, exciting additions. More on the JOURNAL 💐 #LFW #Folklore #Sustainability #SustainableFashion #MotherNature #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🦋 #collage by me.

THE DARKER SIDE 🌹 #DACBE: As #SimoneRocha put it in her own words, “We all feel very kind of internal at the moment; I wanted to look after that fragility, but give it a harder shell. I like how, at the beginning of the collection things appear tight and closed, but throughout the collection, the woman blooms open until the leathers are just strapped on. The shell breaks down, but the tulle keeps its strength.” More about her brilliant (and retrospective) #AW21 collection on the JOURNAL 🖤 #LFW #London #Melancholy #Hope #FritzLang #DavidCasparFriedrich #Romance #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🦢 #collage by me.

CRAVINGS 👄 #DACBE: Although it’s officially London Fashion Week, some brands from #NewYork are showing just now. #CateHolstein‘s #Khaite for #AW21 was meant to be a love letter to long-gone, gritty New York of the 1970s – think Taxi Driver and #Klute as a visual reference. More on the JOURNAL 🚬 #JaneFonda #TomWesselmann #OldNewYork #Chic #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🩸 #collage by me.

SILHOUETTES 🌹 #DACBE: The new season #Roksanda is all about entrance-making silhouettes, which are not only bold, but comfortable – not your usual pairing. More about the #AW21 collection on the JOURNAL ❣️ #LFW #London #Silhouette #RoksandaIlincic #MaryCassatt #PaulGauguin #FrancoFontana #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🖍 #collage by me.

REGAL 🫖 #DACBE: I’ve slept on most of #EmiliaWickstead‘s career, but the #AW21 line-up is quite something. This season, I feel like most brands and designer lean on styling too much, and in case of Wickstead, we see actual clothes, which are proof of excellent cut and tailoring. From the caped coats and suits to wonderfully refined eveningwear filled with couture-ish, lady-like silhouttes for day and evening, this is a regal, yet contemporary wardrobe for a modern-day dame. You know, that kind of Agatha Christie character, but living in social media times. And really, that woman doesn’t have a single pair of sweats on her racks. She will wear one of those shoulder-revealing dresses, in classy black or timeless florals, to a Zoom meeting (or a socially distanced five o’clock). More about the collection on the JOURNAL 🎹 #LFW #London #LadyLike #Elegance #FrancoFontana #SoChic #DACBECOLLECTIONS ♟ #collage by me.

THE JOY OF DRESSING UP 💐 #DACBE: Finally – a collection I genuinely loved this season! Despite the obvious limitations of the moment, #MollyGoddard delivered a phenomenal collection. More about her #AW21 line-up on the JOURNAL ❣️ #London #LFW #Tulle #DressingUp #FairyTale #MotherNature #DACBECOLLECTIONS ✨ #collage by me.

GREEN POWER 🌷 #DACBE: There’s an unofficial trend circulating this season: finding inspiration in powerful women from the past, often with a religiously-charged background. First, Bevza‘s designer mentioned Olga of Kiev as a reference for her knitted hoods and elongated silhouettes; yesterday, #GabrielaHearst talked about #HildegardofBingen. A writer, composer, philosopher, mystic, and Benedictine abbess, Hildegard was a regular Renaissance woman, except that she predated the Renaissance by about two centuries. “I’m convinced,” Hearst said, “that if she had been a man we’d know her name like we do Leonardo da Vinci’s.” More about Hearst’s beautiful line-up - balancing timeless design, sustainability and an elevated, otherworldly feeling - on the JOURNAL 🌿 #NewYork #NYFW #SoftMinimalism #SustainableFashion #Sustainability #AW21 #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🕊 #collage by me.

THE BALANCE 🐎 #DACBE: Clothes that work harder while also being easier to wear – the new investment pieces, which make sense in COVID times. More about #ProenzaSchouler #AW21 on the JOURNAL ✨ #NewYork #NYFW #WildHorses #LazaroHernandez #JackMcCollough #TimelessDesign #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌞 #collage by me.

THE POWER OF HERITAGE ❄️ #DACBE: The clash of 90s minimalism with Ukrainian heritage is #Bevza‘s is the #NewYork-based brand’s signature style. “Due to the separation of the pandemic, it’s important for us to show something very Ukranian historically,” #SvitlanaBevza told Vogue. More on the JOURNAL 🕊 #NYFW #SoftMinimalism #Trypillia #Heritage #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🐚 #collage by me.

AT HOME 🐌 #DACBE: #Batsheva is a great example of #NewYork-based label that’s both small and big. The production isn’t huge, sustainable way of doing things is at heart, and there are no fancy runway events taking place each season (intimate look-books starring Batsheva women in their kitchens is a new tradition!). But the influence of #BatshevaHay’s dresses is seismic (both in women’s everyday wardrobes and red carpet events), and the cult following of committed clients, who are looking forward to small drops of prairie gowns in one-of-a-kind vintage textiles or cute crotchet knits, truly impresses. More about #AW21 on the JOURNAL! 🍄 #NYFW #FairyTale #NickyHilton #AmyFineCollins #WomanForWomen #TheDress #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌾 #collage by me.

SURF & QUILT 🏄🏼‍♂️ #DACBE: While #NYFW feels very sleepy this season (due to quite understandable reasons), that state of slowness has has its advantages: there’s more time to discover the newcomers. Well, in case of #TristanDetwiler, he is new to the fashion insiders, but on TikTok, he has a following of over 133,000 users who watch him cut up antique blankets and quilts, some dating back to the 1800s, and transform them into chore jackets, Baja hoodies, board shorts, and cocoon coats. Discover #Stan #AW21 collection on the JOURNAL 🌞 #NewYork #Quilting #QuiltedJacket #SurferLife #Crotchet #Upcycling #SustainableFashion #California #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🧘🏻‍♂️ #collage by me.

Mid-week February longings for heat, colour and sun 🌞 #ABiggerSplash (2015) by #LucaGuadagnino starring #TildaSwinton and #MatthiasSchoenaerts. 🐚 P.s. Dreaming of #Pantelleria....

FIRST LADY APPROVED 💐 #DACBE: On January 20th, the Inauguration Day, Dr. #JillBiden wore #Markarian from head-to-toe: a custom cerulean tweed dress and matching coat trimmed with pearls and velvet cuffs. Michelle Obama boosted the profile of many young American designers in her day, and Biden’s choice was a reminder of how deeply women care about what #FirstLadies wear – and how influential their choices can be. But also, it worked as a statement: supporting small brands and companies is important. That day, Markarian’s #AlexandraONeill experienced ultra-visibility that most young designers only fantasize about. #AW21 line-up shows how the designer pushes her vision of refined femininity forward - more on the JOURNAL 🌜 #NewYork #NYFW #Knitwear #SoChic #LadyLike #RedWithLove #DACBECOLLECTIONS ✨ #collage by me.

ACT COMPASSIONATELY & SUSTAINABLY ❣️ #DACBE: #ImitationOfChrist isn’t a regular fashion brand. Every single piece made (“produced” just doesn’t fit here) is one-of-a-kind. No pre-collections and no traditional business models, but rather spontainety and a sense of inspiring care-freeness is what prevails at #TaraSubkoff‘s brand. And of course it’s one of the most ingeniously sustainable labels that exists. Second season in a row, Imitation of Christ’s upcycled collection is available and sold on #TheRealReal – and half the profits will go to #GretaThunberg’s Fridays for Future. More about their #AW21 on the JOURNAL 🌹 #NewYork #NYFW #SustainableFashion #Sustainability #UpCycling #ErnstLudwigKirchner #DACBECOLLECTIONS ❤️ #collage by me.

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