To be honest, Raf Simons’ pre-collections for Calvin Klein tend to feel quite ordinary, when you compare them to his mind-blowing runway collections. Well, after the news broke of the brand’s decrease in sales, of both main and sister lines, that’s quite understandable. But will Simons continue to design at a brand (that he actually rebranded and revived) that already puts pressure on him to focus on commercial stuff? That’s a question the time will answer sooner or later. Back to the topic – pre-fall 2019 collection, for both women and men. It’s a wardrobe of “reworked classics” that relate to the specific Americana interpretations explored in previous seasons – no wonder why you might have seen those Rosemary’s Baby dresses or the fireman pants before. There were also classic trenches and coats constructed with offset paneling as if to appear deliberately pieced together, for the boys and the girls. A splash of velvet there, a bit of denim here. Lacquered croc and snow leopard coats, of course all faux. All of those garments look good – really good – but when styled in the lookbook, they feel messy and completely out of context.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.