September – my favourite month – is coming with big steps, so I’m gradually looking forward to the warmth of autumn clothes – knits, trench coats, earthy tones… This sort of exhaustion with summer-wear made me dive into Vogue Runway’s archives, and just like that I’ve rediscovered a designer-and-brand tandem that would feel so relevant today. Hannah McGibbon was Phoebe Philo’s right hand during the latter’s creative directorship of Chloé between 2001 and 2006 – a period when the label helped to redefine the way women wanted to dress with a mixture of free-spirited, sun-kissed levity and feminine tailoring. Then from 2008 to 2011, Hannah herself took control, ramping up the label’s 1970s savoir faire. I can remember how slammed by the press she was with every season. Looking at her collections from that time – especially her autumn-winter 2010 collection – I’ve got no idea why her collections were met with such harsh reviews. They were beautiful – elegant, refined and super chic. And oh, how timeless! Just look at the below images. Pretty much the entire autumn-winter 2020 season has that take on soft minimalism, which might have been misunderstood a decade ago. As far as I know, McGibbon is now consulting different labels. If she ever forgives the press that once gave her a hard time, I can really see her taking on some houses that need a good creative direction. How about Rochas (which still hasn’t named it’s new designer)?
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.