NAUTICAL DREAMS ⛵️ #DACBE: #RosieAssoulin is back. Well, not that she was actually absent – her delicious wine project, #Vivanterre, keeps on growing, and her clothing line continuously keeps on delivering the wittiest eveningwear in #NewYork – but #SS22 line-up is the first full-blown collection coming from the designer since the pandemic has started. What stands out most is the collection’s surprising anchor motif – a timeless symbol. Several looks feature bandeau tops hand-knitted in the curvy shape of an anchor, while a crisp white dress had one cut away at the ribcage. These summer-perfect pieces felt light and charming, delicate yet quirky, polished but with plenty of humor. More on the JOURNAL ⚓️ #SummerComeBack #SeaLife #NauticalTheme #ByTheBeach #DACBECOLLECTIONS 💙 #collage by me, music: “High By The Beach” by Lana Del Rey.
REMINISCENCE 🕹 #DACBE: The big three names from Japan – Rei Kawakubo, #JunyaWatanabe and Kei Ninomiya – again skipped #PFW, and they will probably do so until the pandemic completely winds up. From #Tokyo, Watanabe treated the internet with a charming collection filled with gilded draping, filmy fabrics, disrupted tailoring and printed collaborations with Japanese, Chinese, Nepalese, and Thai contemporary artists. More on the JOURNAL 🎈 #Glamorous #BeautifulGesture #CulturalDialogue #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🏮 #collage by me, black & white photograph from #JanuszKorpal’s archives.
LOVE BRINGS LOVE ❤️ #DACBE: The last evening of #PFW was an extraordinary celebration of a fashion genius who left us too early. “Love Brings Love” was a characteristically optimistic mantra of #AlberElbaz, the brilliant and widely beloved designer whose death at 59 from Covid-19 in April of this year devastated the international fashion community. And so it was fitting that under this banner and before a crowd of the designer’s family, friends, colleagues, and peers, including Dries van Noten, Rick Owens, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Jean Paul Gaultier – and France’s First Lady Brigitte Macron – Paris Fashion Week drew to a deeply poignant, but joyful close. For the show, 45 designers and Elbaz’s design team at #AZFactory came together in celebration of his talent, personality, and design legacy, and many were present in the audience that night. “We wanted to find a way to celebrate Alber’s spirit,” explained Elbaz’s long term partner Alex Koo. “It is beautiful to see how each designer revealed a different aspect of Alber. It really was a labor of love.” More on the JOURNAL ❣️ #Paris #SS22 #LoveBringsLove #DriesVanNoten #EdieCampbell #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌹 #collage by me (3/3).
LOVE BRINGS LOVE ❤️ #DACBE: The last evening of #PFW was an extraordinary celebration of a fashion genius who left us too early. “Love Brings Love” was a characteristically optimistic mantra of #AlberElbaz, the brilliant and widely beloved designer whose death at 59 from Covid-19 in April of this year devastated the international fashion community. And so it was fitting that under this banner and before a crowd of the designer’s family, friends, colleagues, and peers, including Dries van Noten, Rick Owens, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Jean Paul Gaultier – and France’s First Lady Brigitte Macron – Paris Fashion Week drew to a deeply poignant, but joyful close. For the show, 45 designers and Elbaz’s design team at #AZFactory came together in celebration of his talent, personality, and design legacy, and many were present in the audience that night. “We wanted to find a way to celebrate Alber’s spirit,” explained Elbaz’s long term partner Alex Koo. “It is beautiful to see how each designer revealed a different aspect of Alber. It really was a labor of love.” More on the JOURNAL ❣️ #Paris #SS22 #LoveBringsLove #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌹 #collage by me (2/3).
LOVE BRINGS LOVE ❤️ #DACBE: The last evening of #PFW was an extraordinary celebration of a fashion genius who left us too early. “Love Brings Love” was a characteristically optimistic mantra of #AlberElbaz, the brilliant and widely beloved designer whose death at 59 from Covid-19 in April of this year devastated the international fashion community. And so it was fitting that under this banner and before a crowd of the designer’s family, friends, colleagues, and peers, including Dries van Noten, Rick Owens, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Jean Paul Gaultier – and France’s First Lady Brigitte Macron – Paris Fashion Week drew to a deeply poignant, but joyful close. For the show, 45 designers and Elbaz’s design team at #AZFactory came together in celebration of his talent, personality, and design legacy, and many were present in the audience that night. “We wanted to find a way to celebrate Alber’s spirit,” explained Elbaz’s long term partner Alex Koo. “It is beautiful to see how each designer revealed a different aspect of Alber. It really was a labor of love.” More on the JOURNAL ❣️ #Paris #SS22 #LoveBringsLove #AdutAkech #TomoKoizumi #Balenciaga #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌹 #collage by me (1/3).
RANDOMNESS 🥚 #DACBE: Livestreamed from #Tokyo, #ReiKawakubo went for her signature, giant portable #CommeDesGarçons sculptures this season, imprinted with exaggerated flowers, leaves and bows. It didn’t feel like one of Kawakubo’s dystopian, apocalyptic moments in which she has seemed to sound a warning about bad things coming. Was her popping-out scenario closer to suggesting a feeling of rebirth, re-emergence, maybe? Or rather… nothing makes sense? Randomness, surrealism and absurdity are registering as part of the mood of 2021. More on the JOURNAL 🫒 #SS22 #CommeDesGarcons #RandomHumor #Surrealism #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🍈 #collage by me.
CHANEL, CHANEL, CHANEL 🤍 #DACBE: For #SS22, #VirginieViard delivered us the pure essence of #Chanel – especially the 1980s-slash-90s one. If not for the contemporary models, you could mistake this collection with a 1992 line-up. Back in the day, supermodels came bounding down the high, raised runways exuding joie de vivre as they twirled and vamped for the photographers who had jostled for prime position, not only in the mosh pit at the end of the runway, but all along its length. Viard wanted to replicate that ambience, and she succeeded. More on the JOURNAL 🐚 #Paris #PFW #ChanelVintage #JoieDeVivre #AylahPeterson #AbbyChampion #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌹 #collage by me.
RED CARPET 🌹 #DACBE: #DemnaGvasalia returned to #PFW with his #Balenciaga, and to all the others: game over. He won the week. Again, he’s a genius. “Well,” remarked Gvasalia, “we needed something fun to happen.” For #SS22, he staged a fake red carpet celebrity-studded, movie-style premiere event and a real one. “I’ve wanted to do a premiere concept where the guests would be the show for many seasons,” he said. “It was nice to have a social occasion again. I hoped it would make people smile.” It was hysterical – in the best possible way. More on the JOURNAL ❤️🔥 #Paris #IsabelleHuppert #JuergenTeller #DovileDrizyte #DevHynes #EllaEmhoff #RealHousewives #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🗞 #collage by me, music: “Tu Ed foutu” by In-Grid.
CELEBRATE LIFE ❤️🔥 #DACBE: In his brilliant and vibrant #SS22 collection for #Valentino, #PierpaoloPiccioli celebrates life and all its beauty. To mark the return of Valentino’s ready-to-wear to Paris, he took over the old marketplace at the Carreau du Temple, and a row of neighboring cafés and restaurants opposite, to put on a joyful all-gendered show reunion symbolically blurring the distinctions between insiders and outsiders. “It has been such such a tough moment. That’s why I decided to get Valentino into a new dimension: life”. More on the JOURNAL 🌹 #Paris #PFW #LoveLife #Celebration #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🖍 #collage by me, music: “Love & Happiness” by River Ocean and La India.
NEUROTIC, PSYCHEDELIC, COMPLETELY HYSTERIC 💚 #DACBE: Sometimes, it’s great when nothing makes sense. “Neurotic, psychedelic, completely hysterical” are the terms describing the latest #Loewe collection by #JonathanAnderson. After months of digital presentations, the designer was on a mission to mark his comeback runway show at Loewe with a massive creative change. “We’ve had the pandemic, and now we have to come out of it different,” he said. “I think it’s a moment of experimentation. If you’re going to reset after this period, you need to allow a moment to birth a new aesthetic. Start again.” More on the JOURNAL 💥 #SS22 #PFW #Paris #AndreKertesz #Silhouette #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌪 #collage by me, music: “Ponyboy” by Sophie.
NEAR THE SEINE, CLOSE TO NATURE 🌾 #DACBE: In her second season at #Chloé, #GabrielaHearst convinces the #Paris crowd that her take on the maison is truly worth observing and buying into. The honest and meticulous way she’s bringing in changes in sourcing, the supply chain, traceability, and environmental and social responsibility to a major Paris fashion brand graciously works in pair with creating beautiful, free-spirited garments. More on the JOURNAL 🐎 #PFW #SS22 #Caftan #CloseToNature #SustainableFashion #Chloe #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🦌 #collage by me.
GENDERLESS UNIFORM 🌹 #DACBE: At a first glance, this might have been an unexpectional (which would be an anomaly) #RafSimons collection – a bunch of black and white outfits. But when you look deeper into it, you see what’s so extraordinary about it. Over the last years, genderless dressing has been so prevalent in fashion that it’s almost lost its meaning. We’re so used to seeing boys in dresses that nothing surprises us. In that sense, Raf Simons’s men and women in corporate skirt-suits didn’t send disbelief down the runway. But once you actually tried to picture that image unfolding in the real world it was another matter altogether. Simons has always challenged our relationships with conventional dress codes. This collection was his timely reminder that our collective mentality perhaps isn’t quite as far ahead as we’d like to believe. “Right now, I think it’s an important thing because so many men are buying womenswear anyway,” Simons said after the show. “The question is if they’re buying clothes that are made for women, or clothes that are made for both men and women. It’s something I find fascinating to focus on.” He continued about the genderless silhouette: “I think it looks more like a uniform on a boy, and more couture on a girl. It’s a very pure, timeless shape.” More on the JOURNAL 🍃 #Paris #PFW #SS22 #Genderless #Monastic #Silhouette #Timeless #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌪 #collage by me.
