Gifts for Her.

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Welcome to Design & Culture by Ed gift guide for the upcoming festive season. Here you will find my edit of the ultimate gifts to give (or receive!), from can’t-go-wrong buys to must have pieces. Once you find your perfect present, click the link and get it, or alternatively write it down in your letter for Santa Claus! Prepare to be inspired…

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Nina Ricci ‘Lily’ crossbody bag.

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Byredo ‘1996’ perfume & Jacquemus lamé mini dress.

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Courrèges vinyl box bag & vintage long fur coat.

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Repossi 18-karat rose gold diamond ring & Nina Ricci dress.

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Diptyque ‘Epices Et Delices’ candle & Isabel Marant earrings.

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Saint Laurent heart shaped cape.

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Charlotte Tilbury ‘The Golden Goddess’ palette & Joseph velvet top.

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Isabel Marant pumps  & Marques Almeida skirt.

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Rodin face oilRodin hand and body cream & Jacquemus yellow turtleneck.

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Charlotte Tilbury ‘The Gift of Goddess Skin’ feautuing primer, mask, moisturizer.

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Vintage Chanel bag & Dorateymur heels.

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Sophie Buhai silver ‘Egg’ ring & Nina Ricci metallic high neck dress.

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J.W. Anderson hooded jacket & Vintage Prada lip print wedge sandals.

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Loewe ‘Elephant’ wallet & Miu Miu coat.

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 Oliver Peoples X The Row sunglasses.

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Tom Ford ‘Nicholas’ lipstickTom Ford ‘Dominic’ lipstick & Tom Ford ‘Bradley’ lipstick.

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Prada wool sweater & Prada skirt.

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Gucci ‘Weekend Bag’ & Paul Smith rose pattern socks.

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Céline luggage bag & Tom Ford ‘Black Orchid’ perfume.

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Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini knit & J.W.Anderson ‘Pierce’ bag.

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Trend Report SS15

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Summer is the time when we loose our self to the beach, sun, parties. And it also bring the new tendencies to fashion. The SS15 season is simply full of bright, chic ideas- with Seventies influences from Saturday night fever to hippy deluxe, a khaki nod to military style alongside nautical accents, experiments with transparency, patchworks of vintage prints and a mix & match approach to volume and fabric, for summer 2015 we’re set to see contrast take center stage. It’s a storm of ideas this season. So here’s Design & Culture by Ed’s TREND REPORT for summer.

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Who doesn’t love boho? It’s so french, slightly gypsy and very comfortable. Mix delicate, fragile fabrics with over-sized trousers and turbans; invest in a huge, ethnic towel or cape for beach days. Stepping straight out of 1970s Marrakech, these long, light and flowing dresses will billow in the breeze this summer as you take on the elements in style. Inspired with over-sized style Talitha Getty, the boho chic feels totally all right for summer. Baja East, Dries Van Noten, Missoni, Chloe, Rodebjer.

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Again, beach. Nautical stripes and captain jackets are the IT trend if talking of a summer escape. Or even a spa run-away. Take Acne Studios, where the models wore towels as mini dresses. Or Jacquemus which talked about beaching season in his beloved Marseille in France. And even dough beach-fashion might make you think sexy, the designers for SS15 are much more democratic and safe (unless you forget your bikini under Lanvin’s mesh top)! Anthony Vaccarello, Jacquemus, Marc Jacobs, Acne Studios, Lanvin.

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Oriental vibe was on most of the designer’s mood-boards. Obi belts, kimono silhouttes, sharp colours were all here during the Milan and Paris fashion week! There is something sensual in these cut-outs. and the japonesque over-sized trousers look chic with sandals and quiet, comfortable pumps. It’s truly a zen state for summer. Alexander McQueen, Marni, Gucci, Celine.

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Boyish trend is nothing really, new but the androgynity grows in power every season. Blazers, tailored trousers and le smokings from 70’s are stealing the spotlight. Also, the business woman in mini skirts chages her femme fatale shirt into a delicate, loose tank top. Saint Laurent, Maison Martin Margiela, Sonia Rykiel.

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Lace is the most fragile fabric of all. It’s a bit ironic, but at the same time very naive and feminine. Nicolas Ghesquiere looked at this traditional materials from a much more modern perspective, while Chloe made the lace dresses a great tribute to the 70’s free spirit. Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Givenchy, Chloe, Louis Vuitton.

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Who ever said that prints should be same? The SS15 is full-filled with everything- from florals like at Celine (YES.) to sharktooth a Mona Kowalski’s A Detacher. It was surely one of the most cheerful seasons for a long time… Roksanda, Thakoon, Celine, A Detacher, Marc by Marc Jacobs.

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Loose yourself to dance! The 70’s glamour and Saturday Night Fever are back in opulent, sexy and chic way. Who knows it best? Tom Ford. Those transparent tops with flowers embroidered on nipples and the high waisted trousers are the perfect fit for a lux disco. Acne Studios, Saint Laurent, Isabel Marant, Tom Ford.

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And now a contrast way of partying- being the Uptown girl, with a creme sweater, white blazer and comfortable, but elegant trousers. The New Yorker and Parisians know that trend best. It’s not about “drifting in gold”. It’s about being “less is more”. Celine, Victoria Beckham, Lanvin, Tibi.

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Khaki is a movement of military trend although this season, it’s much more calm and elegant. V-neck sweaters, bomb dresses, artsy tracksuits and leather coats are the thing for active summers in forests. Khaki, in overall, is a cool colour. Creatures of Comfort, Sonia Rykiel, Marc Jacobs, Chanel, Hermes.

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Fly high and free as a bird! Feathers and feather like materials made all of the gowns look fresh and beautiful. MSGM’s main motive was freedom, which was perfectly represented by small, paradise hummingbirds and parrots. Fendi flies, too, with their chic cocktail dresses. MSGM, Proenza Schouler, Fendi, Balenciaga.

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I am in love with this trend, as it’s my moment’s obsession. Old, oriental tapestries and 70’s patterns were combined together, to create dreamy coats, dresses and pantalons. The proof for the new electic chic is the incredible fabrics at Dries Van Noten, the graphic foliage and florals at Maison Martin Margiela, and Prada’s eastern evocations. Maison Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Maison Martin Margiela, Prada.

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Art always go in pair with fashion. That’s why the biggest artists of SS15, Juny Watanabe and Thomas Tait, brought as cubism in new, super bold dimension. This season saw an intriguing combination of influences from Roy Lichtenstein, one of the world’s leading pop-artists, Mondrian and Sonia Delaunay. With circle motifs, bright colors and bold, intersecting stripes the collections were a truly vibrant display. Loewe, Junya Watanabe, Dries Van Noten, Thomas Tait, Roksanda.

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RED RED RED RED. Bloody red. Rose red. Love red. Temper red. Leather red. Vetements, Comme des Garcons, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu.

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Black & white is a combination of modernity and elegance. It’s a classic. It’s ethernal. Jonathan Anderson of his name-sake brand mastered this contrast in a very lady-like way, while Anthony Vaccarello made the models look like sex bombs in those giving-leg gowns. Balmain, J.W. Anderson, Anthony Vaccarello.

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What is American style? It’s all about being fit, loving rodeo, having a cacti and playing Barbie. My new favourite all-American labels? Mara Hoffman which fuses denim with crochet and The Elder Statesman, which is all about dyed prints and best, U.S. quality. It’s an American Dream! Mara Hoffman, The Elder Statesman, Iceberg, Alexander Wang, Moschino.

Gucci Party at Vitkac

Slide2On Wednesday, at 7 in the evening, the Gucci party at Warsaw’s Vitkac started. In this calm, black building, which holds brands like Celine, Saint Laurent or Louis Vuitton, the craftsmen from Tuscany were invited to host a very special event- personalising the Gucci leather products (bags and accessories were welcomed). In a traditional, Italian way, guest’s bags had their initials written on with the iconic gold font, while others could drift away in a huge selection of beautiful clothes and shoes for the fall season. The Bamboo shopper, Jackie clutch and Soho bag were all present. The crowdy, but chic atmosphere was fulfilled with Poland’s hot names: Joanna Horodynska and Justyna Steczkowska, which were both very nice and warm. Everything felt simply perfect, with that luxurious, Italian precision. Thank you Vitkac and Gucci for inviting me and Lena for this fantastic event! Here are some of my photos I took on the party.

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Exclusive: Warby Parker Fall Glasses

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Here, on Design & Culture by Ed, I want to exclusively present you the Warby Parker eyewear collection for AW14, which launches today. For this American brand, personality is what makes a good pair of glasses really great! Their Fall collection is definitely for these people, who own (and love) their style, exercise their wit and add life to the party! In the new collection, everybody will find their pair- the bold ones, take the clever styles in crystal. For perfectionists, Warby Parker updated three hardworking acetate frames with titanium temples. And for folks who really mean business, they got practical, simple silhouettes. Together with two other pairs (“Striped Pacific” and “Petal Tortoise”), there are nine great designs, that show chic, style and coolness.

The Fall 2014 is available in stores, showrooms and http://www.warbyparker.com/fall-2014 from the 3rd of September. So rush for them!  Photographs of Iceland by Rich Stapleton.

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The New Yorkers to Know

RODEBJER, NYFW

As you might already know, New York is a nest of talented, fresh designers which emerge with new technologies, trends and mood. Through the perspective of AW14, I found eight labels that are going to be on everybody’s lips during the September’s New York Fashion Week. So let’s see who’s on the list!

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Creatures of Comfort  – Jade Lai’s label is created in the aim of total comfort. The clothes are slightly over-sized, worn in a slouchy, artsy way. For winter, Jade jumped into the beloved murder mystery board game Clue. The sinister atmosphere, solemn faces of models and the concept of hidden things echoed in many layered looks. Throughout the collection which had a lot of different prints and colours used, my standouts include the swingy coat in powder blue and the bottle green dress-cardigan combo (which slightly reminded me of Mrs. Marple, the character of Agatha Cristie).

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Rodebjer – Carin Rodebjer creates a moody fashion of ethno-inspired clothing which have an edgy, minimalistic touch. But for fall, Carin went into the sensual side- the idea of sexual subjectivity, a wearable riff on Rita Mae Brown’s writing on sex and sensuality. In Rodebjer’s hands, “sexy” didn’t mean a skintight bandage dress; it meant a slouchy suit draped off the body, or a slinky silk robe with cherry-patterned embroidery, or crisp, quality shirting sized to suggest a woman trying on her boyfriend’s button-down. And when Lindesy Wixson closed the show in a over-sized, black suit, there wasn’t any need to read between the lines.

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Suno – Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis starting point was Jeremy Sutton-Hibbert’s photographs of a gypsy camp outside Bucharest. Taken between 1990 and 2006, the pictures document the changes and wealth of gypsy tents and their horses for Porches. The collection started with raw cut ponchos, Jacquard skirts and ethno printed turtlenecks. Then the light was let in, making the closing gowns shine bright with golden threads and silver embroideries. Are these the modern day gypsy girls? Yes, but in a very techno vibe.

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Edun – the designer of Edun, Danielle Sherman, has a strong collection behind her back. For AW14, she did a typical, normcore collection which is filled with cozy sweaters and sweatpants. This is Sherman’s second collection at this Bono-founded clothing line. Before she worked at T by Alexander Wang and The Row. And she already redirected the house codes! For Fall, Sherman focused on materials and texture-blocking, giving sporty silhouettes a fuzzy, earthy quality. “There was a lot of fabric manipulation,” she said of the way the wool and alpaca was often brushed upward to create a “hairy” effect. “Even though it’s Fall, I wanted to keep it light.” Sherman showed a ton of over-sized trousers in camel and grey (they look good with Stan Smiths) and knits which are must-haves this season. The teddy bear fun continues.

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Tome – That was the most grown-up show Tome showed in it’s career. And, that was the runway debut for this small brand designed by Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin. For the collection, they were interested in women- confident, cosmopolitan, polished yet unfussy in their sense of style. Her presence is strong and soft at once, said Lobo backstage. Red satin, camel coats, midi pencil skirts, flawless, sleek dresses- that was the collection, that is mature but also very clean and classy. Martin and Lobo really did a good job this time, and hopefully we will here more from them soon!

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Organic by John Patrick – As the name suggests, it’s all aout the earth-obsessed designer. But this time, he turned his attention toward space. John’s latest collection found him doing astronaut jumpsuits and modernistic casual day wear. The fabric mix was intriguing—Patrick leaned hard on technical, in particular sheer materials with a plastic sheen, but he also integrated a lot of cozy textures, such as quilted cotton, felted wool, and fur. Who knows if that isn’t the perfect wardrobe for an American woman in 2050?

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Wes Gordon – “I feel like my woman is becoming clear” said Wes Gordon backstage of his show. Gordon launched his collection four years ago right out of school, and it has taken him a while to find his footing. At first, his lady was a lady—the kind of icy blond who only orders clothes via trunk show. “Yet as Gordon has learned to tap into his own youth, she’s loosened up a bit: still upper-crust, but living in Tribeca” is a perfect way to describe the collection. V-neck dresses, cardigans, flawless skirts, lace trimmed tops and blue jackets with fur hoodie. How not be in love? It’s everything that a succesful woman needs!

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Delpozo –  This brand has quickly become a must-see show after last year’s NYFW debut. Under the direction of Josep Font, this Madrid label based in New York successfully repositioned itself for global audience. Font’s inspired, meticulously crafted clothes blur the lines between ready-to-wear and couture. Each collection is an elegant composition of contrasting themes, simultaneously structured and fluid, strong and ethereal. The AW14 collection was as usual elegant, but with a youthful edgy style. Long coats versus sequined mini dresses. Pastel blue worn with bright red. That was a show with contrasts, which made an overall harmony. And the picnic gingham… and the magical embroideries… aah!

That’s it of the list. Got any other talents from New York you want to observe? Write in comments!