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british vogue

Binx, Juergen & Ghana

October 18, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Binx, Juergen & Ghana.

Publication: British Vogue October 2019 Photographer: Juergen Teller Model: Binx Walton Styling: Poppy Kain

ONE FOOT IN BED, ONE FOOT IN REALITY 🐦 #DACBE: The new season #AcneStudios collection is quite close to #JonnyJohansson‘s recent outings: incredibly tactile, playfully deconstructed and intentionally ‘unfinished’ if you know what I mean. The difference is that it’s a direct response to current lockdown feelings and isolation moods. More on the JOURNAL ❄️ #Paris #PFW #AW21 #Tactile #StayHomeStyle #Penguins #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🐧 #collage by me.

HEALING POWERS ✨ #DACBE: The first days of digital #PFW are definitely lively – especially, thanks to new-gen designers who aren’t really Paris-based. In the last several years, the brilliant South African designer #ThebeMagugu observed friends and relatives overhauling their lives while studying traditional healing. Compelled by their connection to their ancestors, these young creatives began to learn practices with roots in antiquity, an experience that altered their perspectives. “It’s called #ukuthwasa, and the way it manifests itself is quite interesting because it starts as a sickness, a kind of spiritual illness,” explained Magugu on Zoom to Vogue. “It causes people to take this monumental journey where you leave for months on end to train under a traditional healer. In the past it was something that felt far away from me, but now, as peers have received those sorts of callings, it’s fascinating. Once they return, they are completely changed.” More on the JOURNAL 🦋 #Paris #AW21 #SouthAfrica #Healing #MotherNature #DACBECOLLECTIONS 💧#collage by me.

GROUNDED APPROACH🪲 #DACBE: Like many people during this period, #ZoeLatta and #MikeEckhaus went through a mood rollercoaster. That bummed-out vibe provided a creative spark, which resulted in comforting, deconstructed shapes, gritty textures and a somber palette. More about #EckhausLatta #AW21 on the JOURNAL 🐞 #NewYork #ComfortZone #Deconstruction #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🐝 #collage by me.

FAMILY AFFAIR 🌺 #DACBE: Digital #PFW started today, and it hit off with #MarineSerre‘s “Core” collection. We’ve got used to Serre’s dystopian visions, which appeared to be ironically precise (she pioneered face masks on the runway seasons ago…). However, her #AW21 line-up is all about optymism and hope. Moreover, it’s a beautiful family affair. More on the JOURNAL 🌷 #Paris #Sustainability #SustainableFashion #Upcycling #SpaceshipHouse #DACBECOLLECTIONS 💐 #collage by me.

THE ACT 🕊 #DACBE: Approximately a year ago, COVID-19 hit Europe. #PierpaoloPiccioli presented his #Valentino collection during Paris Fashion Week (who would have ever believed back then that fashion weeks will switch to digital?!) and the solemn, melancholic elegance he sent down the runway captured the first feelings of crisis. For #AW21, you would have expected some sort of bold, joyful vision of future re-emergence most designers are desperately talking about this season. But surprisingly – especially having in mind his recent, extraordinary couture collection! – Piccioli decided to stay a realist, staying in the black-and-white colour palette. He thought of a modern-day punk attitude with a romantic twist. From the sheer lace evening gowns to over-sized shirts worn as dresses, the collection looks towards the aspect of comfort, but not in a lazy way. More on the JOURNAL 🤍 #Milan #MFW #PierpaoloPiccioli #ValentinoActCollection #NewRomance #ModernPunk #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🖤 #collage by me.

SEXY IS BACK 💥 #DACBE: #TomFord keeps it hot and mostly short for #AW21. “The slight deconstruction of luxurious pieces is something that I feel will be a legacy of the pandemic for a few seasons to come,” he wrote in the press notes. Another legacy of the pandemic he foresees will be the return of sexy. More on the JOURNAL 🔥 #Milan #MFW #LegsForDays #SoChic #DACBECOLLECTIONS ⚡️ “live” #collage by me.

SPACE ODYSSEY 🛸 #DACBE: For #AW21, #PaulAndrew delivered the most unexpected collection for #SalvatoreFerragamo. His vision for the brand was all about a formal-meets-casual wardrobe, kept luxurious and upscale. However, such approach failed in COVID era. So it was a smart decision to stir things up - Andrew took Ferragamo to the outer space. More on the JOURNAL 🚀 #Milan #MFW #SpaceOdyssey #Perseverance #Mars #OutOfThisWorld #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🛰 #collage by me.

IT’S PERFECT ☁️ #DACBE: It’s always refreshing to see a #Zanini line-up during #MFW. While it’s mostly about who’s louder and bolder in #Milan, #MarcoZanini delivers quiet collections that actually speak volumes and have true substance. Don’t get me wrong, I love a camp-y Moschino, but nothing beats a well-edited offering that includes a perfectly tailored, felted double-faced cashmere peacoat or a sartorial jacket made from ultralight wool flannel. Zanini is a place for women (and now for men as well) who seek timeless, investment pieces that aren’t plain, cold minimalism, but got the human touch palpable in every single seam. More about the label’s #AW21 on the JOURNAL 💧 #FrancoFontana #Tailoring #SoftMinimalism #TimelessDesign #Cashmere #SoChic #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌜 #collage by me.

REAL CLOTHES, REAL FEELINGS 🍇 #DACBE: Really, who didn’t play bed-sheets-couture dress-up, even once during the year of endless lockdowns? Those fabulous, voluminous duvet garments #FrancescoRisso offered in his #Marni #AW21 surely had this sort of stay-at-home origin. But this collection isn’t another mumbling about “fancy” home-wear. It’s real clothes reflecting real emotions... fit for real life. More on the JOURNAL 🫐 #Milan #MFW #PalomaElsesser #AquaticLife #RealFantasy #MotherNature #SustainbleFashion #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🍊 #collage by me.

BEAUTY, SILHOUETTE & POSE 💜 #DACBE: For some designers, the pandemic brought a sense of freedom, and also let them really rethink how to do things. #JonathanAnderson is an example. Discover his incredible fashion-meets-art #JWAnderson #AW21 collection on the JOURNAL 💚 #JuergenTeller #London #Silhouette #Knitwear #FashionAndArt #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🤍 #collage by me.

TOTAL FANTASY 🎨 #DACBE: #JeremyScott‘s #AW21 collection for #Moschino is hilariously good. Forget the lockdown-and-loungewear talk. Here’s total, camp fantasy. More on the JOURNAL 🎪 #Milan #MFW #KarenElson #LifeImitatesArt #ArtImitatesLife #TableuxVivants #TrompeLOeil #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🪗 #collage by me.

EASY OPULENCE 🍬 #DACBE: #MiucciaPrada and #RafSimons‘ joined vision for #Prada starts to unravel. It’s elusive, enigmatic and far from straightforward – and what’s most important, exciting. #AW21 is the second full season coming from those two brilliant fashion minds, and while the debut left many hungry for more, the latest line-up has the virtual audience in awe. More on the JOURNAL ✨ #Milan #MFW #Opulence #MeretOppenheim #BillieHoliday #SoChic #NewElegance #DACBECOLLECTIONS 💥 “live” #collage by me.

It’s one year since you’re not with us, but I still hear your little footsteps. Love you. I’m sure you are somewhere in the Universe, as a little star. ❤️ #Rubi #ForeverLove

HOT CONFIDENCE 🌹 #DACBE: #Blumarine is hot! #NicolaBrognano‘s debut last season proved that he (with #LottaVolkova’s styling help) has a plan for this Italian brand that once was the synonym of sexy, carefree glamour. More about the #AW21 collection on the JOURNAL ❣️ #Milan #MFW #RedRose #SoChic #Madonna #HelmutNewton #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🍬 #collage by me.

PROPER CLASSICS 🌞 #DACBE: #KimJones‘ first collection for #Fendi, which was a haute couture line-up starring the designer’s friends like Demi Moore, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, polarised the audience. Surprisingly, his ready-to-wear debut wasn’t such noteworthy event – no big names among the models, and instead of some sort of Insta-extravaganza, we’ve seen a very classic, proper Fendi collection. More on the JOURNAL ☕️ P.s. This fur is upcycled! 🍮 #Milan #MFW #AW21 #FendiFur #Rome #LaDolceVita #TheClassics #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🍁 #collage by me.

A DANCER 🦢 #DACBE: #ErdemMoralioglu delivered a mesmerising collection for #AW21. Conceived in the realm of ballet, #Erdem’s line-up freeze-framed a dancer’s wardrobe between the stages of rehearsal and performance. More on the JOURNAL 🩰 #London #LFW #BalletDancer #AlfredHitchcock #Rebecca #Elegance #IbKamara #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🎭 #collage by me.

IN FOLKLORE WE TRUST 🌷 #DACBE: In #London, the new-gen designers thrive. #EmmaChopova and #LauraLowena, the design duo behind #ChopovaLowena, have always fused traditional folklore with sportswear, and this season they keep on building their style vocabulary. For #AW21, they put emphasis on the ‘uniform’ - and some new, exciting additions. More on the JOURNAL 💐 #LFW #Folklore #Sustainability #SustainableFashion #MotherNature #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🦋 #collage by me.

THE DARKER SIDE 🌹 #DACBE: As #SimoneRocha put it in her own words, “We all feel very kind of internal at the moment; I wanted to look after that fragility, but give it a harder shell. I like how, at the beginning of the collection things appear tight and closed, but throughout the collection, the woman blooms open until the leathers are just strapped on. The shell breaks down, but the tulle keeps its strength.” More about her brilliant (and retrospective) #AW21 collection on the JOURNAL 🖤 #LFW #London #Melancholy #Hope #FritzLang #DavidCasparFriedrich #Romance #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🦢 #collage by me.

CRAVINGS 👄 #DACBE: Although it’s officially London Fashion Week, some brands from #NewYork are showing just now. #CateHolstein‘s #Khaite for #AW21 was meant to be a love letter to long-gone, gritty New York of the 1970s – think Taxi Driver and #Klute as a visual reference. More on the JOURNAL 🚬 #JaneFonda #TomWesselmann #OldNewYork #Chic #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🩸 #collage by me.

SILHOUETTES 🌹 #DACBE: The new season #Roksanda is all about entrance-making silhouettes, which are not only bold, but comfortable – not your usual pairing. More about the #AW21 collection on the JOURNAL ❣️ #LFW #London #Silhouette #RoksandaIlincic #MaryCassatt #PaulGauguin #FrancoFontana #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🖍 #collage by me.

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