The recent Iris Van Herpen couture show stays in my head till now. The Wilderness collection wasn’t just about a red gown and diamond rings. Iris is known for her futuristic, full of high technology usage dresses and fashion installations. The AW13 of Haute Couture was all about a walk in the park. But that doesn’t mean that there was anything organic here- no, the dresses were made thanks to collaboration with Jolan Van Der Wiel, that is known for…creating magnettically grown surfaces. He’ve got lots of design awards and in is portfolio the highlight is the gravity machine, but makes his wild looking furnitures one in a kind and amazing. We can find mostly stools and candle holders in his tested ready to sell objects. Talking of Iris Van Herpen, the shoes that we saw in the collection were made by United Nude and look like… real roots of a oak tree! I find the interesting because you’ve got a feeling that real roots are grwing out of the feet… My fav look of the collection is the one with the spectacular installation of birds and reptiles skeletons that of course aren’t made of real bones, but something that looks really fragile. Before meeting Iris Van Herpen’s work, I would never thought how science and technology can so much change fashion! Feeling thirsty for more of this kind of experiences!
There is no word that really can express the Maison Martin Margiela Haute Couture collection for AW13. It’s as always untitled, I would say, taken from laboratory and still not checked. There is such big splendour of styles, fabrics in one collection, that it’s strange it all works out together, even if it not. Latex trousers reminding of jeans and a white vinyl top with a classical Margiela veil opened the show, without music, special decorations and colours. It’s not a show, but a presentation of art. This is the first time when Margiela team work with Swarovski, to create jewellery and even… Boots! The heels of these amazing boots had a Swarovski crystal outgrow that looked fascinating. Just as the unique horse nail “finger” space in Maison Martin Margiela shoes!
The collection based a lot on embroidery inspired with Asian flowers. Mostly, all looks had something of flowers- veils, vests, skirts… There was a visible hand work on everything, even on scares that were held by few models. What I enjoyed most in the collection was mixing denim and art, that’s rare in couture. The look were a model wears casual pair of jeans, marble face veil and a flower embroidered vest is my favourite. It is very different and just untitled!
If talking of more art than couture that’s still classified as fashion, Iris Van Herpen is located definitely in this uncertain spot. “Beyond Wildness” was the title of her 11 looks collection. But, each look was steeped into the nature- it was a deep forest dress, with the spirit of Japan and the surface of a wild wood or branches as light as cobwebs as strange nature inspired decoration.
Working with artist Jolan van der Wiel, who created the magnetically grown surfaces (sounds amusing) and many other artists, Van Herpen created a collection that is really out of that world. But the designer still has to think over all her ideas, before creating the scientific collections with it’s clear message. Photos of the backstage and collection are taken from T Magazine!