Author: Design & Culture by Ed
When in Alyscamps. Gucci Resort 2019
It was Gucci and the ancient necropolis of Alyscamps, a stone throw from the French city of Arles, that followed the Louis Vuitton cruise show in the Cote d’Azur. The lightness and sun-drenched mood of French Riviera got erased by a massive dose of historical weight and a sense of mysticism that Alessandro Michele adores to implement into his clothes, and the Italian brand. It’s not a surprise that the collection was heavy in details and focused on a beautiful chaos, typical for the escapist universe of the creative director. The line-up was like a moving closet for women and men, or rather for anyone who feels free to wear the clothes. That’s Alessandro’s way of pushing Gucci into no-gender-boundaries label. So there it all was on that, literally, ‘on fire’ runway: a gown with a skeleton thorax embroidered on the bodice (disturbingly magnificent), bridal dresses embellished with Christian crosses, leggings with memento mori written all over, richly embroidered toga dresses, punk-ish boots, opulent robes, jaw-dropping faux fur coats and lots of flowers (that replaced real accessories). I no longer look at Michele’s collection in terms of clothes only. That just doesn’t make sense. His creations are like a theatre, where everything matters: the styling, the models, the setting, the music.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
What’s Hot (7.6.18)
Art and Riviera. Louis Vuitton Resort 2019
I know, I know. It seems that Louis Vuitton‘s resort 2019 collection took place ages ago. But I’ve been holidaying for a while in the Algarve region of Portugal, and hey – shouldn’t we all slow down the pace in the industry? Shall we make make reflection, not the instantness, a priority?
Nicolas Ghesquiere‘s take on French Riviera’s artistic aura was brilliantly executed at the Fondation Maeght in St. Paul-de-Vence. The runway, filled with Giacometti sculptures, was a perfect backdrop for the season’s flowing dresses, evening tops with feathers and deconstructed vests. The collection is full of contrasts. Leather over-the-knee sneaker-boots clashed with feminine flou of some of the outing’s most refined looks, while 80s volumes and prints were put next to boudoir-esque pink satin and lace. Shortly, Nicolas celebrates diversity in dressing, that used to be rich among the artists who settled across the Riviera.
“What is it today to be an original, [someone] who has her own way of dressing? This bricolage . . . you can start a real movement. I love those people who are eccentric.” Possibly, Ghesquiere had Grace Coddington on his mind, who collaborated on the Vuitton bags the season. The mega-stylist and former creative director of Vogue worked on a collection of bags based on the sketches she does of her beloved cats and Nicolas’ dog. Maybe it’s the sea breeze that’s doing the work, but that was one of the best collections coming from the designer in a while.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
What’s Hot (6.6.18)
Design & Culture by Ed 