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Punk Dandy. Haider Ackermann AW17

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Haider Ackermann is about to present his first collection for Berluti this week – so no wonder why he decided to make his autumn-winter 2017 collection a kind of “designer aesthetic” retrospective filled with his signature essentials. It was pure Haider, but even sharper and fiercer than usual. Inspired by punk and hard-rock subcultures, Ackermann conveyed the rebellious attitude in leather biker jackets, skinny pants in tartan plaid and slouchy robe-coats. ‘Stitched’ velvet suits looked especially impressive and badass. Dangerous and appealing – those two terms well describe these Haider’s dandy-ish rockman.

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Men’s – Existentialism. Lemaire AW17

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Yolk-yellow peeked out beneath coffee-brown. Dove-grey and camel-beige. Poetic black and elegant indigo-blue. As you can see right away, Christophe Lemaire‘s autumn-winter 2017 collection for men was a beautiful conversation between colours. And the clothes were beautiful too, in every meaning of this word. I’m absolutely a  Lemaire-type of person and I would wear anything coming from this collection right now. The loose-fit of pants; perfectly tailored pea-coat; parka jacket that would stay in my wardrobe for ever. Aah. Yet, it’s all distinctively French, and the collection quietly nods to the existentionalist-writer style. Albert Camus, for instance.

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