Haider Ackermann’s Tom Ford feels like a wet dream made flesh: Lisa Lyon working out to Madonna’s “Erotica“, or Helmut Berger cast in an art-house adult film. The energy is relentlessly otherworldly- steamy, regally refined, and dangerously seductive. His pre-fall 2026 collection delivers exactly that.
What’s particularly striking is how powerful Ackermann’s clothes remain outside the spectacle of the runway. Even against the plain backdrop of a lookbook, they hold your gaze, effortlessly hypnotic. As the collection arrives in stores, there’s plenty to obsess over: razor-sharp tailoring, deliciously kinky leather pieces for both men and women, languid floor-skimming gowns, and outerwear so impeccable it borders on fetishistic. Classic Daddy Haider.
We saw Ackermann explore denim in the main collection, but here he pushes it further, giving the lineup a raunchier, more casual edge. It evokes the mood of Tom Ford’s Santa Fe ranch (think that unforgettable Terry Richardson editorial for Vogue Paris where they kiss). The result is a collection that feels both louche and luxurious, gritty and sensual… this is carnal allure.
ED’s SELECTION:
TOM FORD Iggy Oval-frame Acetate Sunglasses
TOM FORD Cotton And Silk-blend Duchesse-satin Blazer
TOM FORD Striped Silk-satin Jacquard Shirt
TOM FORD Leather Chelsea Boots
TOM FORD Double-breasted Cashmere-blend Blazer
TOM FORD Cotton And Silk-blend Duchesse Satin Straight-leg Pants
TOM FORD Croc-effect Patent-leather Cuff
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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