Murder In The English Country. Simone Rocha SS27

September 20, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Simone Rocha’s collection immediately took me back to the now-vintage “Poirot” series starring David Suchet – but also to “Miss Marple“, played by Geraldine McEwan. Whenever there was a bloody murder in one of those English country houses, the Agatha Christie detective would arrive at the crime scene, and somehow all the house guests would be dressed to the nines. The women – both the suspected murderers and those who seemed completely innocent – looked as if they might be ready for a ball at any moment.

For spring-summer 2027, Rocha is in a similar soirée mood, with echoes of interwar elegance. Yet alongside rosette-shaped gowns, organza boas and dropped-waist dresses, there were sturdier leathers and flashes of skin that would have been scandalous in the aforementioned society. At times, Simone returned to her eternal Rei Kawakubo obsession via Cristóbal Balenciaga-esque matryoshka hoods (very matriarchy). But the designer’s real strength lies in those barely-there, billowy dresses that are unmistakably hers. Now, who’s the killer?

ED’s SELECTION:

Simone Rocha Bow-detailed Gathered Taffeta Blouse

Simone Rocha Floral Lace Embroidered Leather Slip-ons

Simone Rocha Layered Pleated Silk-organza Midi Skirt

Simone Rocha Silver-tone Crystal Necklace

Simone Rocha Ruffled Floral-print Pointelle-knit Cotton-jersey Leggings

Simone Rocha Lace-up Merino Wool-blend Scarf

Simone Rocha Bow-embellished Embroidered Organza Midi Dress

The Doll. A Letter SS27

September 20, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

I love the honesty, sincerity, and, above all, playfulness of A Letter’s clothes. The London-based label, founded by Matt Empringham and Freddy Coombes, makes seemingly “normal” clothes that always hide a weird little tweak or twist. Their dresses look as if they’ve been taken straight out of a vintage dollhouse, yet the radically minimal silhouettes and clean lines keep them from becoming saccharine. Instead, they’re elegant – elegantly odd.

The shapes are subtly inflated, while the lengths are cut as if they’re just a few centimeters too high. There’s also a quietly fetishistic undertone hiding in the seams – blink, and you might miss the transparent PVC back of a 1950s-inspired dress. Yet Empringham and Coombes never shock simply for the sake of shock. Their fashion isn’t interested in Instagram dressing. It’s for girls who dare to be themselves, with A Letter acting almost like a little sexy envelope they can choose to dress themselves up in. Brands like this are what make London Fashion Week worth paying attention to.

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Diva Out! Conner Ives SS27

September 20, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Conner Ives left London and returned to New York. Instead of the Savoy, he took his guests to the legendary Grill – one of those fabulous institutions that serves overpriced meh food in a space that makes the experience worth every dollar. As expected from Ives’ flamboyant approach to eveningwear and chic in general, there was nothing uptight about this collection.

The dolls in their vintage fur-trimmed robes and satin gowns in watercolour prints went out for the night, cheeky and all smiles, with their JFK Jr.-ish plus-ones. RHONY’s O.G. alum, Countess Luann, repeats like a mantra: life’s a cabaret. Let the diva out! READ MY FULL NYFW REPORT HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:

CONNER IVES Ruffled Shirred Floral-print Silk-satin Top

CONNER IVES Crystal-embellished Recycled Stretch-jersey Maxi Dress

CONNER IVES Embellished Printed Cotton-jersey T-shirt

CONNER IVES Crystal-embellished Recycled Jersey Mini Dress

CONNER IVES Two-tone Jacquard-knit Mini Skirt

Funny Girl. Altuzarra SS27

September 20, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

In some ways, this Altuzarra collection depended on too many Prada-isms filtered through Tory Burch, but I’m happy to see Joseph Altuzarra leaving behind the over-intellectual, good-taste comfort zone he’s been stuck in lately. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.