Ending fashion month on a show I’m still on the fence about – but one that clearly signals a designer stepping outside her comfort zone: Sarah Burton’s Givenchy.

The good news is that Burton has shed what I like to call the “Taylor Swift–ness” that weighed down her earlier work for the house – a certain safety and plainness that defined her first two seasons. Her third outing is anything but bland; this is no longer boring chicken with boring rice. There’s spice here, and bravado – plenty of both. I was especially taken with the draped, turban-like hats, as if lifted straight from a Jan van Eyck portrait, created in collaboration with Stephen Jones. They paired beautifully with Burton’s richly draped velvet halter tops and sharply tailored trousers. Her use of leopard prints and textured jacquards clashing with butch-leaning tailoring feels unexpectedly compelling. At times, I found myself thinking of that “Sex and the City” episode where Charlotte York discovers the world of art-world lesbians – there’s a similarly unapologetic feminine energy running through Burton’s work. It manifests in both boxy suiting and off-the-shoulder party dresses, creating a dynamic tension.

What made the collection slightly less legible, however, were the clunky bags and heavy boots that seemed to weigh the looks down. A stylist with a lighter touch might help Burton sharpen her message. Still, something is clearly shifting at Givenchy. And I suspect we’ll see the most coherent vision emerge in a season or two, once Burton has fully settled into her role.

ED’s SELECTION:

Givenchy Crepe Midi Dress

Givenchy Silver-tone Crystal Earrings

Givenchy Pinch Mini Embellished Leopard-print Calf-hair Shoulder Bag

Givenchy Cape-effect Silk-satin Mini Dress

Givenchy Paneled Leather Midi Skirt

Givenchy Patent-leather Pumps

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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