Men’s / New Vintage. Bode SS19

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While the fashion industry struggles with overproduction and its self-destructive pace, the New York-based designer Emily Adams Bode goes against the flow. Her label, Bode, is mostly fabricated from vintage textiles: antique table linens, patchwork quilts, grain sacks – the list can go on. But don’t think her work comes out as looking overly D.I.Y. or crafty-arty. We’re speaking of button-up shirts with romantic pussy-bows, delightful coats and striped boxy trousers, treated with the finest dyes.

Her spring-summer 2019 collection is a beautiful nod to India. Part of it was produced from khadi, a handwoven cloth, produced by Indian craftsmen. But there are as well incredible Bengalese embroideries all over the shirting; a t-shirt with a flag of India print that has a cool, vintage-y vibe; pastel-blue short shorts; a rugby jacket in the brightest shade of orange; loosely fit suits. It’s like Wes Anderson’s ‘The Darjeeling Limited’ cast wardrobe, available in real life. But coming back to Bode and it’s phenomenon, it’s incredible how the label stays true to ethical and sustainable way of doing things (noting that Bode is based in the Big Apple, where everything should be ‘now and here’ lately). “We’re still largely focused on vintage textiles,” Emily says, “and then we work to find something that is reproducible from them. We have mills and producers in India, actually. And, when buyers come, they shop on the rack, and say, ‘How close can you get to this piece?’ Some want each piece exactly the same, and others want only one of a kind. We’re calibrating it, but it’s working.” One more thing: even though Bode presents her clothes on men, all of the pieces can be as well worn by female fans of the brand.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Olympics. Saks Potts SS19

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For their spring-summer 2018, Barbara Potts and Catherine Saks clearly wanted to stir away from what Saks Potts is mostly known for: the best-selling faux fur jackets. And they tried hard to surprise. In the beginning, a dance troupe performed in the middle of the stadium, where the collection was presented; then, a model came out, wearing a dramatic white dress in fur. And then, the show really began. The collection was meant to be a nod to the Olympics and everything connected to sport. But the result could have been much better. The designers definitely needed to concentrate more on editing the looks, as in the overall the collection felt simply… messy. Holographic, Lycra ensembles. Duvet jackets with mountain prints. Logomania tights. Too much going on in here. Also, I couldn’t help but note all the elements that seemed to be knocked-off from Area NYC. Their signatures: the big sunglasses, the over-the-top styling, the early 90s glamour. All present at Saks Potts, executed in a very similar way. The best (and certainly the most original) part of the collection was the fur. That lilac coat with a fluffy collar and equally fluffy cuffs is a highlight, just like the ombre teddy bear piece.

Another week, another fashion week. Some Copenhagen designers, like Cecilie Bahnsen, have a clear signature and keep to it. Other, like Ganni, recycle trends. And the other others, like Saks Potts, are established for one thing, but seem to struggle to evolve. Still, the Danish designers are worth watching.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.