Unfinished Thought. Ferragamo SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

Maximilan Davis’s Ferragamo tenure has its ups and downs. This season, it’s unfortunately the latter. The collection read like an unfinished thought. The Anthony Vaccarello-ness of it all – vinyl coats and pencil skirts, see-through jerseys, that kind of modern-day Saint Laurent “power dressing” that in general feels very yesterday – is super confusing, noting that Davis usually has good ideas of his own. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Ferragamo Molly Embellished Suede Pumps



Ferragamo Draped Satin- And Lace-paneled Silk-chiffon Midi Dress



Ferragamo Hug Leather Shoulder Bag



Ferragamo Layered Wool-blend Blouse



Ferragamo Layered Knitted Midi Skirt

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Conservative Turn. Gucci SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

When Demna was announced as Gucci’s new creative director, the industry collectively assumed that a renaissance was coming. After all, this was the designer who had changed the way fashion looked over the past decade – turning hoodies into statements, oversize into a norm, and luxury itself into something to be questioned, parodied and reinvented.

Yet recreating that alchemy is not easy. In Milan, Demna presented his latest Gucci collection inside a replica of the brand’s flagship store, supposedly returning to the house’s roots. There were attempts at Tom Ford-era sex, echoes of Frida Giannini in the jet-set tailoring and equestrian moments, and none of Alessandro Michele’s warmth. What remained was something colder, more calculated – and strangely nostalgic for 2009, when fashion was very white and very thin. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Gucci Silk-satin Mini Skirt



Gucci Cropped Silk Jacket



Gucci Castello Patent-leather Sandals



Gucci Jackie 1961 Leather-trimmed Printed Coated-canvas Shoulder Bag



Gucci Silk-satin Blazer

Twenties. Alberta Ferretti SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

Roaring Twenties in 2026? Groundbreaking. But in the case of Lorenzo Serafini’s latest Alberta Ferretti collection, this really is a deal-breaker. His collection was just so sincerely beautiful. Léon Bakst and the Ballets Russes were obviously on the moodboard, but in Serafini’s hands, the references didn’t end up looking Yves Saint Laurent, but purely Ferretti: romantic, with a hint of wanderlust, and completely unpretentious.

The breeziness of the low-waist gowns, the simple elegance of languid kimonos. Serafini wanted each of the clothes to weigh less than 20 grams, so that on the body everything floated and fluttered. I also loved how some of the looks felt very Romeo Gigli, the Italian designer at his 1980s heyday who himself looked to the 1920s for inspiration. The tie-dyed shawls, pleated trousers and satin cummerbunds evoked that particularly sweet era of Italian fashion.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Architecture. Tod’s SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

A year ago, I visited the Olivetti showroom in Venice, tucked discreetly beneath the colonnade of Saint Mark’s Square. Designed by Carlo Scarpa, the space stuns with the way it sustains a sense of harmony in possibly the busiest place in the Floating City. Modest in scale but rich in detail, like all of Scarpa’s architectural gems, it’s full of warmth within its overall 1950s minimalism.

Matteo Tamburini’s Tod’s is like Scarpa’s Olivetti – only the context is Milan and the local fashion industry, where other giants shout at the top of their lungs, but all you hear is some mumble jumble. Meanwhile, Tod’s delivers the most supple, butter-smooth and effortlessly chic take on reduction, where there’s no place for the superfluous, and functionality isn’t merely pragmatic, but beautiful.

A close-to-the-body fitted top with elegantly tucked sleeves, like napkins at your favourite restaurant; a leather dress that doesn’t look like a weight to carry, but like caramel dripping down the body; perforated bags and knits – a very Carlo detail, IYKYK – that simply feel breezy and light. Tamburini chooses subtlety over noise and serves a collection that is fully wearable – and somehow exists outside of any trend cycle. Like any great architecture.

ED’s SELECTION:


Tod’s Studded Suede-trimmed Glossed-leather Ballet Flats



Tod’s Tim Zaino Mini Leather-trimmed Suede Shoulder Bag



Tod’s Gommino Suede Loafers



Tod’s Bauletto Croc-effect Leather-trimmed Suede Mini Bag



Tod’s Glossed-leather Mules

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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