Sex! Tom Ford SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

Though fashion talks about sex constantly, very few manage to make something genuinely sexy – especially when algorithms serve nudity to us like just another trending reel. We’ve become so accustomed to being told what should turn us on that we’re increasingly numb to the subtleties where real seduction lives. Haider Ackermann, Tom Ford’s creative director, wants to bring back not just sexuality, but sex appeal – and, with it, a little genuine spark. In other words: he wants us to have good sex. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


TOM FORD Caleb-02 Square-frame Acetate Sunglasses



TOM FORD Croc-effect Leather Skirt



TOM FORD Snake-effect Leather Pumps



TOM FORD Stretch-modal Jersey Thong



TOM FORD Gold-tone And Tortoiseshell Plexiglas Cuff

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Unresolved. Dior SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

At Dior, Jonathan Anderson wanted to achieve a sense of lightness. It’s probably one of the most difficult things to pull off, because if something goes wrong midway, the result can easily look clumsy and unresolved. And that is exactly what happened with this collection. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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End Of An Era. Saint Laurent SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

The first days of Paris Fashion Week are already lined with a growing feeling of melancholy. The “Roaring” Twenties are slowly approaching their end. Will the Thirties be the new Great Depression?

Anthony Vaccarello’s not-yet-officially-final collection for Saint Laurent felt like a heartfelt good-bye, but to me it also read as the final ball. Nobody knows what tomorrow will bring, so let’s just have a party. The collection was to-the-death 1980s, walking a thin line between high-octane glamour and numbing tackiness. The overscaled chandeliers echoed those of the InterContinental Hotel, where Yves Saint Laurent used to present his collections (especially the very last ones, which were actually the least critically acclaimed). The little chanson Charlotte Gainsbourg sang for Anthony only added to the maître de cérémonie energy. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


SAINT LAURENT Guermantes 95 Patent-leather Slingback Pumps



SAINT LAURENT EYEWEAR Sl 902 Howl D-frame Acetate Sunglasses



SAINT LAURENT Woven Midi Skirt



SAINT LAURENT Lace-trimmed Silk-satin Camisole



SAINT LAURENT Bo Coeur Fetiche Gold-tone And Crystal Clip Earrings

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Waters of The World. Hodakova SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

Hodakova’s spring-summer 2027 was a bit of a mess – but sometimes, chaos is needed, right? It was particularly funny to see how infuriated the guests were as the venue’s sea-salt-covered floor heavily smeared everyone’s shoes. Fashion people like their comforts!

On the runway, Ellen Hodakova Larsson was channelling a lengthy story about the sea, sailors and sirens. Some pieces were literally wet – and made me think of going to a banya just to sweat it all out – while eveningwear was made out of fishing nets, both industrial and handmade. One all-black ensemble was cut from leather treated to resemble oversized fish scales.

This ode to the ocean came with an elusive melancholy that has become something of Ellen’s signature. That sadness has its roots in Hodakova’s sensitivity to the treatment of animals – and Mother Earth in general. The waters of the world are being exploited by humans more than ever, not to mention all the waste we keep dumping back into them. Something to think about amidst a fashion month that, overall, seems to pretend that everything’s OK.

ED’s SELECTION:


Hodakova Upside Down Trench Coat



Hodakova Upside-Down Pleated Bermuda Shorts



Hodakova Inside-Out Suit Reconstructed Sleeveless Midi Dress



Hodakova Argyle Knitted Draped-Sleeve Sweater Vest



Hodakova Flip Cotton Button-Down Shirt

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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