New Frontiers. Chloé AW26

| Design & Culture by Ed

At Chloé, Chemena Kamali delivered her best – and perhaps most daring – collection to date. The designer, who captured the hearts of women around the world with her revival of bohemian spirit, has now tweaked her Chloé girl, taking her somewhere less expected. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Chloé Eve Suede Over-the-knee Boots



Chloé Paneled Leather Jacket



Chloé Tiered Organic Silk-mousseline Maxi Skirt



Chloé Paddington Embellished Leather Tote



Chloé Gathered Tie-detailed Lace-trimmed Silk-satin Mini Dress

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram.

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe.

Clashes. Dries Van Noten AW26

| Design & Culture by Ed

Julian Klausner’s latest collection for Dries Van Noten explored clashing styles as a means of finding one’s identity – “a moment of self-discovery.” At times, it seemed to be trying to say too much, particularly with the preppy uniforms and pixelated prints. Yet toward the end, the lineup revealed what Klausner does especially well at Dries: a kind of contemporary folklore, a patchwork of sensibilities and influences. These are clothes that roam freely between Paris, the Highlands, and Bhutan – the red mok-like wrap worn around a school jacket was a striking blend of cultures.

Dries has long been a master of unexpected combinations, and Julian proves himself an A+ student, treating his affection for eclecticism in an assemblage-like manner (Władysław Hasior’s work comes to my mind). Worth noting was a pair of collegiate jackets stitched seemingly at random with embroidered ribbons, in the way a young girl might scribble across her jeans. There’s something equally profound and joyfully carefree about the designer’s approach to personal style.

ED’s SELECTION:


Dries Van Noten Satin Wedge Sandals



Dries Van Noten Draped Polka-dot Satin-jacquard Blouse



Dries Van Noten Sequin And Bead-embellished Satin Clutch



Dries Van Noten Embossed Crepe Blazer



Dries Van Noten Gathered Polka-dot Satin-jacquard Shorts



Dries Van Noten Leather-trimmed Suede Sneakers

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram.

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe.

Palette Cleanser. Alaïa AW26

| Design & Culture by Ed

Before moving to Milan to join Versace for good, Pieter Mulier delivered one last outing at Alaïa – a collection that felt less like a grand finale and more like a palate cleanser, even a kind of foundation laid out for his successor.

During his five years at the brand, Mulier pushed Azzedine Alaïa’s codes in unexpected directions – sometimes achieving remarkable finesse, at other times proposing busy, hectic ideas that risked overdressing the woman. His epilogue, however, is pleasing precisely because it returns to the core of what the house represents at its essence: body-enhancing clothes that appear simple, yet are in fact the result of meticulous construction and extraordinary precision.

That was Monsieur Alaïa’s intention behind every haute couture and ready-to-wear collection; Mulier seems to have taken it fully to heart here – better late than never. “To reduce, reduce,” he concluded backstage. No bags, no jewelry. “Only beauty and clothes and a naked shoe.”

And indeed, that understated beauty was visible in the clean lines of flared coats, scoop-neck engineered jersey dresses, and a perfectly tailored leather blazer.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram.

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe.

Turn On. Tom Ford AW26

| Design & Culture by Ed

It’s a true rarity for a designer to turn on both the entire audience in the room and the thousands watching via livestream. Haider Ackermann has that high-voltage erotic sensibility which you just can’t fake. With his vision at Tom Ford, he can send people into a sensual trance, an awakening of sorts. But what he delivered yesterday at his third show for the house? It was seismic. Seismic sex.

The contemporary Tom Ford woman and man are ultimate séducteurs. One chilling glance is enough to drive you mad. And the razor-sharp lines of their elongated silhouettes work like an aphrodisiac, sending your love hormones into overdrive. Ackermann’s autumn–winter 2026 collection offers plenty of reasons to go feral – and perhaps even a little polygamous: slouchy trousers hanging low on women’s hips, held in place by a thin belt slipping out of its loops; a shrunken, see-through plastic trench paired with a babushka; dark-rinse denim, pre-faded and deeply creased; silk-scarf shirts unbuttoned down to the navel. All of it finished with kinky leather gloves.

We are witnessing a designer at the height of his powers. Enjoy the spicy, scorching ride.

ED’s SELECTION:


TOM FORD Patent-leather Pumps



TOM FORD Silver-tone And Plexiglas Bangle



TOM FORD Open-back Lace-trimmed Polka-dot Silk-crepe Maxi Dress



TOM FORD Asymmetric Crepe-jersey Gown



TOM FORD Wool, Mohair And Silk-blend Blazer

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram.

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe.