Sprezzatura. Missoni AW26

| Design & Culture by Ed

Three seasons into his tenure at Missoni, Alberto Caliri has found his footing. The house – which had been navigating uncertain waters for years after the founding family stepped back – now appears to be entering a quiet renaissance under a creative director deeply versed in its archives, having spent much of his career within the brand’s inner circle. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Missoni Caperdoni Striped Padded Wool And Cotton-blend Jacket



Missoni Striped Metallic Crochet-knit Turtleneck Sweater



Missoni Caperdoni Checked Tweed Mini Skirt



Missoni Ribbed Wool Turtleneck Sweater



Missoni Checked Wool Mini Skirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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She’s Real. Tod’s AW26

| Design & Culture by Ed

For several seasons now, Matteo Tamburini’s Tod’s has been the unsung star of Milan Fashion Week. This time, his woman feels more hands-on – perhaps even faintly industrial. She could be a sculptor unafraid to work clay with her bare hands, or a vineyard owner who tends the vines herself. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Tod’s Gommino Bow-detailed Suede Mules



Tod’s Embellished Leather Loafers



Tod’s Gommino Macro Leather-trimmed Suede Loafers



Tod’s Fringed Glossed-leather Brogues



Tod’s Gomma Embellished Leather Knee Boots

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Normal Is Sexy. MM6 Maison Margiela AW26

| Design & Culture by Ed

While I sometimes struggle to understand the choices Glenn Martens makes at Maison Margiela, I’ve recently found myself truly drawn to what’s happening at MM6, the Milan-based sister line. Its intention is to create garments within the realm of Martin Margiela’s design vocabulary. Even though many designers take inspiration from – or blatantly copy – Margiela, it is always gratifying to see his work thoughtfully revived by the MM6 team.

This season, they explored archetypes and the everyday clothes they wear themselves. As a result, the “normal” became extraordinary in its simplicity and unpretentiousness: full skirts with ruffled hems, flannel button-downs, mohair turtlenecks, aged-effect jeans, anorak jackets, a perfectly understated trench coat. Sometimes the “standard” is exactly what is needed, especially when you don’t want to “dress up”. It can be imperceptibly sexy too.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Wholesome Beauty. Bottega Veneta AW26

| Design & Culture by Ed

After witnessing the wholesome beauty of Louise Trotter’s sophomore collection for Bottega Veneta, one can’t help but wonder: why bother wasting time, life, and attention on something as depressing as Demna’s latest Gucci outing?

Trotter delivered a collection so robust, textured, rich, and untamed in its tactility that you couldn’t help but smile during the closing passage: fluffy furs spun from silk threads rippled like curly shearling; real shearling was brushed to resemble fox; shaggy fiberglass and velvet were carved to mimic astrakhan.

For Louise, Bottega Veneta is a playground – one where she roams freely through the possibilities of materials, embracing materiality in the most unexpected ways. Yet she also proves she knows a thing or two about Milanese sartoriality: her delightfully oversized peacoats and meaty jackets with rounded shoulders did not disappoint.

I entered starving for beauty; I left fed.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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