There’s a sense of distressed, dirty chic about Magliano. In a way, patina was Luca Magliano’s guiding obsession for spring-summer 2027 – “the patina of an old picture, of memory.” The garments carry a distinct 1970s flavor; they feel as if they’ve absorbed cigarette smoke and spilled liquor, as if they were worn all night in some old-school club you might still stumble upon on the outskirts of Rome or Milan (or in any of those smaller Italian towns where time moves differently).
The Milan-based designer – now showing in Paris – approaches classic menswear through a queer lens, filtered with irony and just the right amount of distance. A cheetah-print top paired with matching jeans, an ill-fitting four-button suit jacket that feels lifted from another era, a thrifted foulard worn like a sarong, an aged suit collapsing slightly at the shoulders – all of it carries nostalgia with a flicker of something sharper, almost rageful beneath the surface. Wink, wink.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki. Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram.
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For resort 2027, Magda Butrym reframes sensual power through big-time femininity and soft intimacy. Not a character to be imagined, but a woman already living. In a moment when notions of strength are being redefined, Magda proposes an alternative vision of female empowerment: one rooted not in performance or conquest, but in self-possession, intimacy, and the rituals of everyday life.
The collection draws inspiration from the elusive photographic oeuvre of Teresa Tyszkiewicz, the Polish artist who, throughout her practice, created erotically charged self-portraits depicting a self-aware woman at the height of her power. In the late 1970s and early 1980s, Tyszkiewicz used photography – alongside her experimental film work – as a tool for self-analysis and the construction of a private mythology. Immersed in domestic surroundings and fully embracing her feminine instincts, free from shame or concern for external judgment, Tyszkiewicz embodied a formidable presence that resonates deeply with Magda’s vision of designing for women. The female experience so poignantly evoked by Tyszkiewicz became a powerful source of inspiration for the resort 2027 collection – and its elegantly fetishistic undercurrents.
The lookbook presents an array of feminine codes in which contradictions are celebrated as markers of real attitude. The resort 2027 woman envisioned by Magda can be both regal and nonchalant, pristine and distressed, covered and exposed. A white ruched dress emanates sexual confidence, while tailored jackets with dropped waists and exaggerated shoulders evoke a masculine stance. Signature hourglass silhouettes, which make a woman appear impeccably dressed with effortless ease, meet flapper-inspired shapes that recall the spirit of the Roaring Twenties. Bustiers are hyper-exaggerated, challenging conventional notions of proportion, while plays on transparency render sensuality suggestive and unspoken rather than explicit. A floral apron-housecoat layered over a lace-trimmed slip dress serves as an ode to a woman at work – dressed functionally and pragmatically, yet fully attentive to and embracing of her feminine nature.
This is an ode to the idea of domestic chic – and to the growing insistence that the ever-evolving codes of femininity, emotional complexity, and the beauty of homemaking are not antithetical to power, but central to it.
CREDITS: Creative Director Magda Butrym / Photographer Mark Kean / Video Tatiana + Karol / Stylist Jacob K / Talents Apolline, Alaina Rae / Casting Director Julia Lange / Make Up Artist Lucy J. Bridge / Hair Stylist Tom Wright / Nails Marzena Kanclerska / Stylist Assistant Ioana Ivan / Set Design Anna Szczęsny / Art Coordinator Edward Kanarecki
Tough & Tender Soft and strong Packing light Making do with a few great things. CUSTOMIZING. Enjoying what we do in the studio, and desiring it ourselves, all of it, the clothes and the characters. Panache. And being very unaware of having it. Music and what music can FEEL like. Listening Possibility Worlds opening up, even small ones, not closing. Movement. Heirlooms and good time shirts Authenticity and dress-up. Manners/propriety and practicality. And the opposite. Being yourself, being on your own tip Taking the time to return to things GUT, and having GUTS RISK STYLE SINCERITY Free-styling Summer is a chance to see places you’ve never seen, or go back to places you’ve been going your whole life. Spending as much time as you can outside. Letting Loose. Building toward something bigger. Something with legs, and roots.
– Michael Rider
Celine won the menswear season. Michael Rider “reminds us that the devil is in the details, but he also makes a compelling case for playing with what’s already in your wardrobe. Nobody else owns your exact combination of clothes and accessories. Your wardrobe is your DNA. The way you get dressed is your signature.” READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki. Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram.
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There’s a sense of familiarity, reality, and lightness to what Julian Klausner is doing at Dries Van Noten. A devoted student of Papa Dries, he makes the house’s blend of meticulous embroidery and erotically charged, slightly off-kilter – yet never overly weird – elegance feel completely instinctive, almost on auto-pilot. And that’s very much to his advantage: his work should feel like coming home for Dries devotees. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.
Design & Culture by Ed 