School. Miu Miu SS27

A year ago, Miuccia Prada sent aprons down the Miu Miu runway – blue, floral, not unlike the ones worn by Bożena at my favourite greengrocer. As usual with Prada, her fascination with the supposedly mundane first caused confusion, then collective obsession. The apron became less a fashion statement than a political one. For spring-summer 2027, Prada takes us somewhere else entirely: from the market to the schoolyard. More specifically, the gym. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Miu Miu Leather Slingback Mules



Miu Miu Logo-Knit Silk Sock

Miu Miu Diagonal Rib Silk Skirt

Miu Miu Contrast-Striped Cotton-Blend Polo Shirt

Miu Miu Embellished Satin Slide Sandals

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Boutique-ness. Courrèges SS27

I actually really liked Drew Henry’s debut at Courrèges. This is possibly one of the most difficult houses to make sense of in the 21st century. His predecessors either went blindly too space-age or focused solely on the vinyl jacket. Nicolas Di Felice seemed to have the vision, but I always thought the brand wouldn’t mind a little more warmth.

Henry, a Phoebe Philo alum, approached it with a certain boutique-ness, which is a rarity in Paris lately, where everything must be bigger and louder. It feels like something you would look for in a small shop somewhere in France, where the owner is named Françoise or Francine, has the best style in the world, and however hard you try, you will never dress like her (but you can try!).

There were very chic-looking colour-block jackets and pea coats in a 1960s cut that wasn’t too on-the-nose; an otherwise simple look of a black T-shirt and yellow pants sharpened with a pair of driving gloves; a quirky little hat here and there. The male models wearing the signature André Courrèges A-line mini dresses? It felt like a spontaneous, not-overthought decision that just radically worked. Something is germinating in this house again. Just please give it time to bud.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Pleasures of Spontainety. Celine SS27

Celine’s Michael Rider is interested in reality, but he sees it through a light-hearted lens. His first collections at the brand were exercises in untamed eclecticism, but always with a theory behind them. For spring, the direction feels a little more regal, yet never cold. There’s a tulip-shaped black dress, an embellished satin-finish coat with the fullness of a ball gown. And then, a second later, the mood changes: very eternal beige cashmere sweater worn with cognac leather, or a black velvet suit with a vintage-y printed T-shirt underneath. Classics, made to be worn and lived in, and not be overly precious about. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Unspoken. Chloé SS27

There was something beautifully unspoken about Chemena Kamali’s latest collection for Chloé. On one hand, it played with notions of girlish innocence – all that white broderie anglaise – but there was also a certain fetishistic undercurrent. The PVC trenches were kind of kinky, giving the lineup a daring quality that kept it from feeling too straightforward.

Kamali looked back at her own past at Chloé, particularly the spring 2002 collection she worked on during Phoebe Philo’s tenure. Hence the memorable openwork details, the suits with a certain powerful stance to them (but never too masculine), finished with one big statement necklace, and that particular taste for the risqué that the maison embodied at the time – very Paris-meets-London. But this wasn’t nostalgia for nostalgia’s sake. Looking at the collection, all you could see was a woman who feels free.

ED’s SELECTION:


Chloé Lace-trimmed Crinkled Silk-satin Top



Chloé Junie Leather-trimmed Tpu Mules



Chloé Gayia Aviator-style Tortoiseshell Acetate Sunglasses



Chloé Paddington Python-effect Locket-detail Shoulder Bag



Chloé Wool-crepe Straight-leg Pants



Chloé Suzie Ruched Floral-print Satin Sandals

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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