Unspoken. Chloé SS27

There was something beautifully unspoken about Chemena Kamali’s latest collection for Chloé. On one hand, it played with notions of girlish innocence – all that white broderie anglaise – but there was also a certain fetishistic undercurrent. The PVC trenches were kind of kinky, giving the lineup a daring quality that kept it from feeling too straightforward.

Kamali looked back at her own past at Chloé, particularly the spring 2002 collection she worked on during Phoebe Philo’s tenure. Hence the memorable openwork details, the suits with a certain powerful stance to them (but never too masculine), finished with one big statement necklace, and that particular taste for the risqué that the maison embodied at the time – very Paris-meets-London. But this wasn’t nostalgia for nostalgia’s sake. Looking at the collection, all you could see was a woman who feels free.

ED’s SELECTION:


Chloé Lace-trimmed Crinkled Silk-satin Top



Chloé Junie Leather-trimmed Tpu Mules



Chloé Gayia Aviator-style Tortoiseshell Acetate Sunglasses



Chloé Paddington Python-effect Locket-detail Shoulder Bag



Chloé Wool-crepe Straight-leg Pants



Chloé Suzie Ruched Floral-print Satin Sandals

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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American Style. Polo Ralph Lauren SS27

And just like that, for the second season in a row, Polo Ralph Lauren’s presentation is one of the best things to happen during Paris Fashion Week. Along with Celine’s Michael Rider (who previously designed at Polo) and The Row’s Olsen twins, Karen Brown Body is leading the pack of Americans conquering Paris – and the tastes of the Old Continent.

But we’re no longer talking about revisiting preppy here. Polo’s senior brand creative director is finding a new way to tell the story of American style, one that effortlessly brings together the dressed-up polish of the Upper East Side and the laid-back spirit of Malibu surfers. And yes, she does it in a way that makes the Parisian fashion crowd drool with excitement.

White jackets and tuxedo shirts worn with red swimsuit bottoms and flip-flops; madras checks contrasted with faded Hawaiian florals; an otherwise very elegant ensemble completely loosened up with strings of coral and a cap. This is 100% Ralph Lauren’s language, but done in a way that feels modern, desirable and, crucially, easy to repeat at home. And what I love most about Polo’s renaissance is that, even as its shows move to Paris, the brand stays true to its affordable price range.

ED’s SELECTION:


Polo Ralph Lauren Logo-embroidered Cotton-blend Cardigan



Polo Ralph Lauren Embroidered Cotton Twill Cap



Polo Ralph Lauren Fringed Leather Jacket



Polo Ralph Lauren Logo-embroidered Cotton Bomber Jacket



Polo Ralph Lauren Leather Knee Boots



Polo Ralph Lauren Boyfriend Jeans

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Showgirl. August Barron SS27

If you’re even remotely familiar with The Real Housewives of New York, I’m sure the algorithm has already served you the fresh clip of Countess Luann – whose life really is a cabaret – telling the other women that you should always leave the party first, keep them guessing about your next move, and, above all, let the divaaaaaaa out! August Barron’s delightfully showgirl-ish new collection perfectly captured the spirit of these charismatic, loud and bold women à la Luann. We need more of them in this world, really. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Autobiographical. The Row SS27

My first impression of The Row collection was: well, it does feel very flea-market-ish, no? A moment later, I realised it might be the most autobiographical collection Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen have ever done – an ode to their very own personal style, the one they eventually rebranded into The Row. The pre-Row days. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


The Row Basso Silk Blouse



The Row Ama Rubber Slides



The Row Bandi Lace Maxi Skirt



The Row Liisa Distressed Satin Pumps



The Row Naius Wool Sweater



The Row Girela Open-knit Lurex Maxi Skirt

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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