Men’s / Sisyphus. Rick Owens AW18

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Rick Owens‘ collections aren’t there to just please everyone around with a pair of ‘must-have’ sneakers. ‘Sisyphus’, the autumn-winter 2018 collection’s name, is an example of how the designer reacts towards the surrounding world, and the industry. “I think we’re entering this period of conservatism and creative smallness. And that’s me being very judgmental, but it’s frustrating. I’ve had a lot of resistance in things that I’ve wanted to do creatively—technical resistance—and it kind of discourages you from trying to create things. But then I think, ‘Why do I think that my stuff is so worth telling that I have to force it?’ And then that makes me think of aggression: How much does it take to really be a designer; to insist that you be listened to?”, is how he questioned himself and other matters that affect today’s designers. The collection itself was quintessentially Rick: big volumes, dark colours, deconstructed garments. But the identity behind every single piece is so powerful, that it doesn’t really matter that the designer didn’t do an entire performance, or chose a far-fetched runway venue. Focusing on the end product is the most important. Also, in the world of Owens, pretty much everything is brand-made. One of the key fabrics was a softly felted-looking material that the designer said was based upon his favourite Berber blanket. “I’m trying to do as many exclusive fabrics that we develop ourselves, with people that we’ve known from the beginning. I’m trying to make all of the collection exclusive: making things as profoundly mine as possible. If I could water the cotton with my tears, then I would!” That’s what you call a beautiful devotion. So, is it all so Sisyphean in the end?

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Voyager. Haider Ackermann AW18

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My love for Haider Ackermann is indescribable, really. His aesthetic, his style, his sensibility for colours and textures. The autumn-winter 2018 collection rotated somewhere around Moroccan souks and Japanese bath houses, at least this is how I’ve perceived it. Oriental, but not direct. Whether Ackermann’s man is a nearly mythical lifetime voyager or a guy from Paris wearing his velvet varsity jacket and high-waisted satin trackpants on the daily basis, I have the same feeling every season after seeing the designer’s show: I want to be, or at least look, like this man. Obsessed.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / UGG in the Hood. Y/Project AW18

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To be honest, it was quite predictable that at some point, with ‘ugly’ shoes having a moment, UGG will also hit the high fashion runways. But I never thought that in such way as presented on yesterday’s Y/Project runway. Glenn Martens earned his fanbase with elongating and distorting nearly each garment possible; so he did in his collaboration with the Australian footwear brand, known for the fluffiest and cosiest boots. The effect? Well, really, really perfect for snowy winters. But the label’s autumn-winter 2018 wasn’t only about big feet, but layering. Layering, layering, layering, whether we’re speaking of extra-large hoodies, tartan shirts or tailoring.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.