Eating in Lisbon

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Lisbon is not only great art, mind-blowing architecture and stylish concept stores. It’s also all about food! And really good food, I should admit. And no, the don’t only eat baskets of freshly picked clementines here (as pictured above) – even though a fresh juice made of them is an actual seventh wonder. Here’s my short guide around some of my favourite eating spots and dinner places in the Portuguese capital.

If you’re planning your dinner at Cervejaria Ramiro, read carefully the following: beware of the queue! No reservations, which is usual for the best restaurants in Lisbon. But before you induldge yourself in all those spider crabs, razor clams, tiger prawns and goose barnacles, you’ve got to wait for about half to one hour outside. No worries – they serve beer for the patient ones. And the waiting is really worth it.

Av. Almirante Reis N.1

After an exhausting excursion to Alfama’s most important churches and a few hours of walking down and up the hilly streets, Pois Café is the right place to take a break. The interior is an eclectic mix of brick, vintage furniture and local artists’ paintings. Food is simple, but tasty – take the plate with mozzarella bufala or the passion fruit cheesecake. A fast brunch / lunch in an intriguing spot.

R. de São João da Praça 93-95

A Chevicheria is Lisbon’s hottest dining place. The huge octopus hanging above the bar tempts to enter and try Kiko Martins’ signature seafood menu. Whether it’s a tuna ceviche with radish or St. Jacob’s mussels, you won’t be dissapointed with the restaurant, that’s for sure. Again, no reservations, possibility of waiting in a queue. But the locals know what’s good!

Rua Dom Pedro V129

Morgadinha de Alfama is not a busy, fancy kind of place, but it has one of the most romantic patios in town. And delightful tapas! It’s especially refreshing when the temperature rises and you can hide hear from the scorching sun.

Beco do Alfurja 2

Everybody heard of Time Out Market in Lisbon. You can eat anything here, from the best pata negra ham and fried squids to soaps in the most stylish packages at A Vida Portuguesa corner. The food here is good, true, but the prices are slightly too high. Also, don’t expect Berlin’s market coziness – Time Out is much more commercialised. But the flower shop located inside is a total must visit – even if you can’t buy a bouquet due to approaching airplane travel. Just beautiful.

Av. 24 de Julho 49

In case of traditional Portuguese patisseries, Padaria e Pastelarias Panificação R. Sao Roque is unrivalled. Try tapas served in a more contemporary manner at Tapisco. I hope that the next time I’m in Lisbon, I will discover equally delicious places. Any recommendations, maybe?

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

República das Flores

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Have you ever wondered what it’s like to enter a cabinet de curiosités? Well, entering República das Flores might be just the experience you’ve always been dreaming of. It’s a magical store that’s located in a Pombaline house from the beginning of the 19th century in Lisbon’s Chiado district. What to see and love in here? Perfumed paper, cushions, soaps and bath products, Bordalo Pinheiro china, fresh flowers, linen table clothes from Porto, vintage garments, jewellery from remote destinations, Alentejo oil and wine, antique objects from India and Morocco… in fact, you can’t go out with empty hands.

Rua Alecrim 99 / Lisbon

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Mini by Luna

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Mini by Luna‘s aim was to bring together woman, kids and well-curated home decorations under the same roof. The two-story space beautifully represents the subtle elegance, sophistication and simplicity of a number of Portuguese and international labels (such as Pomandère, American Vintage, Osklen, Tocoto Vintage, Aden & Anais, April Showers and Mes Demoiselles). It’s one of my favourite addresses in Lisbon for a reason – the garments you will find here are seasonless, and they perfectly convey this kind of laid-back, always sunny style the locals have here. And all those baskets! Aah. If you’re here, you can’t ignore the shoes by another Portuguese label called Maray. Those hand-made, leather babouches (nicely finished with tassels and other details) are a must-buy.

Rua Dom Pedro V 74 / Lisbon

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.