Design & Culture by Ed

Nicolas Ghesquiere seems to enjoy France’s First Lady, the chicest Brigitte Macron. Rather than going for another pair of best-seller sneakers (that one point make you puke, since everyone has them / wants them), the creative director of Louis Vuitton decided to do a collection dedicated to the Parisian bourgeois. By that, I mean classy skirtsuits, wearing one glove instead of two (how nonchalant…) and slightly historic looking silk blouses with voluminous sleeves. The mood was contemporary, as usual, but definitely less sci-fi. The ‘grounded’ feeling makes this collection commercial and a bit more approachable for a ready-to-wear client, that’s for sure. But other than the fancy Louvre venue and the lovely yellow fur jacket, will you remember anything else from this outing?

And yes, I’ve finally finished the fashion month coverage. Bye, Pareeh!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

There was something of Phoebe Philo in Céline‘s autumn-winter 2018 collection. But still, that ‘something’ was very, very distant. She’s not there. There’s no soul in these clothes, even if they are worn by Phoebe’s favourite Binx Walton and Charlee Fraser. Those are just the ‘tricks’ Philo would probably have used if she was still around the studio. The heavy palette of navy, brown and black slightly suggest, that even the ‘inside’ designers of Céline feel the misery. Well, this doesn’t mean it’s a collection to ignore – you better snath one of those voluminous coats or masculine blazers before Hedi Slimane fully hits the house. And also, please give a chance to this random, yet adorable vegetable print dress.

By the way… I can’t agree with the thought Phoebe isn’t THERE. And you?