Men’s / William Blake. Ann Demeulemeester AW18

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Ann Demeulemeester certainly is one of the most poetic designers / labels, and Sébastien Meunier is fully aware of that. A poetry reference, in form of William Blake, could happen to be too literal. But, the result is just the right balance of the house references, poetic ‘way of dressing’ and Meunier’s personal romantic aesthetic. In adopting the British Romantic’s work for Demeulemeester, the designer composed a collection that was more than just clothes. Those were the emotions, as well. Having been most moved by Songs of Innocence and of Experience, he featured the book’s cover on a velvet-ribboned tank top worn with a velvet shirt and skinny, black pants. Loose sleeves, ‘undone’ shearling coats and tasselled belts were another details, noticeable in between the lines, of Sébastien’s smooth direction at the Belgian brand.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / New Glamour. Maison Margiela AW18

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In his first menswear collection for Maison Margiela, John Galliano does what he tries (sometimes with success, sometimes not) at the womenswear line – present the new glamour. From deconstructed trench coats to elongated and exaggerated Savile Row jackets, that was a very bold outing of show-boys in their rubber swimming caps and mummified head-pieces. When speaking of Galliano, it’s always about the tiniest detail – he’s the haute couture craftsman, after all. Even if I’m not a total fan of this collecton, I like that idea of over-the-top glamour that John leads towards the men’s wardrobe – like the biker jacket corset. Also, I’m happy to see him venture again into menswear. Waiting to see more.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Marble. Dries Van Noten AW18

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Oh, Dries. It all started with an over-sized, checked brown coat, and ended on a real rhapsody of colour. Hand-painted marble technique was used to create the unique prints for Dries Van Noten‘s autumn-winter 2018 collection, which was an absolute surprise at the end of the show – the models walked down the runway, wearing their hybrid jackets, bombers and coats the other side. Even if ignoring the ‘inside’ part of the collection, Van Noten didn’t dissapoint this season. From Western-influenced shirting to lovely, chunky knits, it was an outing that offers the Dries classics.

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Collages by Edward Kanarecki.