Show Girl. Nina Ricci SS18

October 1, 2017October 1, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Honestly, I really can’t understand why other fashion critics heavily underrate or slam Guillaume Henry‘s work at Nina Ricci. I think what he does at the heritage French maison looks extremely exquisite and at the same time isn’t too obvious. Even if we’re talking about a military-inspired jacket that had a moment at the Les Invalides fashion show. The collection started calmly: there was an ecru coat with extra-large shoulders styled with, yes, biker shorts. To a surprise of many, it ended with a vivid splash of radiant pink and eye-catching yellow. The most remarkable looks were all about feathers – from head-pieces to mini-dresses – and had something of a chic, Belle Époque inspired show girl. If all the world’s a stage, fashion must be a circus (note that even the runway was under a festive tent). As for me, just let Guillaume have a blast.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Traveller. Loewe SS18

October 1, 2017October 1, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Doing a travel-themed collection is risky, because the designer might easily slip down the pitfall of clichés. But such terms like ‘oriental’, ‘cowboy’ or ‘tribal’ don’t match Jonathan Anderson‘s sophisticated line-up for Loewe. “I want something that people will want to go and touch,” he told the press after the show. Actually, you really want to touch these clothes. The richness of textures is just insane. And it’s even more absorbing, when you realise that each piece has its story, an entire cultural identity behind it. Like a de luxe globe-trotter, the Loewe woman has African and South American traditional handicraft all over her wardrobe; the woven pieces were made according to traditional Peruvian techniques, while fringed sarong skirt seemed to come straight from Argentina. She’s been to Morocco, too, from where the season’s must-have elf-toed sneakers origin – Anderson based the idea on woven sandals coming from that country. Again, another designer would carelessly go a step further and touch the soft topic of cultural appropriation. Anderson plays fair, he finds inspiration and does it with great respect.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

What’s Hot (1.10.17)

Image | October 1, 2017September 29, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Hope. Rick Owens SS18

September 30, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rick Owens‘s wife – the magical Michele Lamy – was laughing wildly in the show’s soundtrack. The fountains of Palais de Tokyo’s yard blasted, sparkling water on the guests (who were given black plastic rain coats). The models wore massive, cocoon-like garments (Comme Des Garçons mood) and huge fanny packs. As far as Owens is concerned with the climate changes, and has moved that global issue in his previous collections, there was a disturbing impression: those were the climate refugees in a dystopian world, where nature takes a revenge. But is the story behind the spring-summer 2018 collection so drastic? As it appeared, not entirely. “It’s a show about hope“, the designer said. The sculptural pieces were more like an armour of rejection to our world’s threats, while layered up dresses and fluid-in-motion tops spoke about human mobility. As equally complex as Rei Kawakubo’s Comme Des Garçons, Rick’s collections are always food for thought.