Author: Design & Culture by Ed
Men’s – Workwear. Yohji Yamamoto AW17
Yohji Yamamoto wanted to recall that “basic aspect of the labor” – he referred to all the people in the background, who help him construct his exquisite garments. That’s a fact – real clothing can’t be made without human hands, you need to use your fingers to understand the texture; your body, to see how the piece looks on a living and breathing person. Having all that in mind, seeing Yamamoto’s menswear was a true experience. A man’s suit appeared in a number of different colours and fabrics, while elegant reversible coats, masculine vests and romantic capes were hand-painted with ‘working man’ slogans. There’s no fuss about Yohji’ collection – and that’s why I might adore them so much, always.
Men’s – Post Industrial. Loewe AW17
It’s unbelievable, how Jonathan Anderson revamped Loewe. Three years ago, the Spanish brand was rather a yawn. Now, whether it’s a collection, presentation or cultural project, the designer builds a totally new, diverse language at the brand. His autumn-winter 2017 collection for men is even more twisted than usual. Anderson described this pack of wearable oddities as “a youthful eclecticism, something post-industrial.” Shearling boots and ripped tartan pants; ‘dilapidated’ bags and fluffy earrings; leather aprons and fleecy cardigans. Biker hats, the season’s must-have, are here, giving the scout-boy look. The look-book was photographed in a former steam engine, while Anderson’s new-season aesthetic has a revolutionary-like attitude. Is fashion going proletariat? That would be quite an oxymoron, with all the price tags. But…
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Men’s – Napoleon. Y/Project AW17
What happens when hip-hop star’s clothes land in Napoleon I’s wardrobe? Or Henry VIII takes style tips from Kanye? Glenn Martens, the designer behind Y/Project, is here to envision those impossible scenarios. Fusing royalty with streetwear, the Belgian designer styled distorted denim jackets with aristocratic, scarlet velvet. Every high-profile rapper has his / her merch outside the concert, selling everything from t-shirts to scarves: Martens reinterpreted the latter, putting faces of famous royals on each of them. Also, the floor-sweeping corduroy coats will make any entrance grand.
Design & Culture by Ed 