Author: Design & Culture by Ed

Icecream-hued Chic. Maryam Nassir Zadeh SS25

| Design & Culture by Ed

For spring-summer 2025, Maryam Nassir Zadeh delivers her trademark (es)sense of cool. It’s one you just can’t fake; authenticity and realness have always been Maryam’s key codes, whether we’re talking about her label, her boutiques in New York and Paris, or her personal style that’s on so many brands’ moodboards. The experiments with clothes, textures and colors she conducts in her wardrobe are reflected and refined in her ready-to-wear collections. You can tell the designer is really into silky transparency this spring season, and she made it extra-intriguing (and extra-sensual) thanks to an idiosyncratic color palette pulled from “ice cream” hues like mango, guava, pistachio, and cherry (she posted a lot sorbets throughout the summer on her IG!). All that delight got brilliantly balanced with mannish, earthy brown tones. The juxtaposition of ultra-feminine slip-dresses and ruffled sheer skirts with more masculine elements like vintage-y leathers and flannel shirts (a mix & match delightfully orchestrated with the help of stylist Camille Bidault-Waddington) makes this collection feel even more appealing.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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New Poetry. Paolo Carzana SS25

| Design & Culture by Ed

As we’re approaching 2025, everybody seems to look backwards at the last quarter of the century in fashion. But let’s also take a look at the future. Paolo Carzana, the London-based designer, makes one feel very hopeful about. The über-talented designer, a finalist for this year’s LVMH Prize, uses plants and natural pigments like burnt umber to dye his crafty, gender-fluid garments. Carzana’s signature is the raggedy, lived-in look of his garments that makes men and women look as if teleported from another century. There’s also that hazy, misty, as if seen through a broken lens, lyrical silhouette of his clothes: the pinstripes on a pair of men’s trousers look blurred, the Caravaggio-esque drapes of the dresses seem to be shaped by gushes of unexpected wind. The gauzy layering and the buttonless, zip-free poetry of Carzana’s work makes him a truly, truly unique creative who doesn’t obey the industry norms of production scaling or aggressive marketing. No other contemporary designer sees beauty and strength the way he does.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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