Author: Design & Culture by Ed

Humanity. Bottega Veneta SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

After the overall feeling of robotic coldness and algorithmic calculation that ruled this Milan Fashion Week, Louise Trotter’s emphasis on tactility at Bottega Veneta is hard not to fall for. It’s a reminder that we’re still human after all. The clashes of textures, techniques and colours are zesty and intelligent; this is a wardrobe – and a set of ideas for dressing – for people who, at the end of the day, love culture.

The only thing I wish Trotter would reconsider is the voluminous silhouette she feels so comfortable with. Sometimes the baggy dresses and tailoring come across as unresolved. Not that they’re slouchy – but it would be refreshing to see the designer shed some of the layers and come closer to the body.

ED’s DISPATCH:


Bottega Veneta Foulard Intrecciato Leather Belt



Bottega Veneta Nodo Small Intrecciato Suede-trimmed Leather Pouch



Bottega Veneta Gondola Studded Intrecciato Leather Clogs



Bottega Veneta Embellished Wool-blend Blazer



Bottega Veneta Striped Wool-blend Pants

Unfinished Thought. Ferragamo SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

Maximilan Davis’s Ferragamo tenure has its ups and downs. This season, it’s unfortunately the latter. The collection read like an unfinished thought. The Anthony Vaccarello-ness of it all – vinyl coats and pencil skirts, see-through jerseys, that kind of modern-day Saint Laurent “power dressing” that in general feels very yesterday – is super confusing, noting that Davis usually has good ideas of his own. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Ferragamo Molly Embellished Suede Pumps



Ferragamo Draped Satin- And Lace-paneled Silk-chiffon Midi Dress



Ferragamo Hug Leather Shoulder Bag



Ferragamo Layered Wool-blend Blouse



Ferragamo Layered Knitted Midi Skirt

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Conservative Turn. Gucci SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

When Demna was announced as Gucci’s new creative director, the industry collectively assumed that a renaissance was coming. After all, this was the designer who had changed the way fashion looked over the past decade – turning hoodies into statements, oversize into a norm, and luxury itself into something to be questioned, parodied and reinvented.

Yet recreating that alchemy is not easy. In Milan, Demna presented his latest Gucci collection inside a replica of the brand’s flagship store, supposedly returning to the house’s roots. There were attempts at Tom Ford-era sex, echoes of Frida Giannini in the jet-set tailoring and equestrian moments, and none of Alessandro Michele’s warmth. What remained was something colder, more calculated – and strangely nostalgic for 2009, when fashion was very white and very thin. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Gucci Silk-satin Mini Skirt



Gucci Cropped Silk Jacket



Gucci Castello Patent-leather Sandals



Gucci Jackie 1961 Leather-trimmed Printed Coated-canvas Shoulder Bag



Gucci Silk-satin Blazer