Author: Design & Culture by Ed

Contrasting Harmony. Area AW19

| Design & Culture by Ed

Area‘s autumn-winter 2019 was a bold, multi-faceted line-up of looks that can be, simply speaking, called ‘occasion-wear’. But then, why not look so fabulous on the daily? And make your outfit a joyous occasion itself? There was red houndstooth print used in slit dresses and over-sized pants; tie-dye on a leather skirt that was actually an apron; a killer orange jumpsuit; a puffa vest and a mini-dress in black & white, all covered in the brand’s logo; the signature two tone lamé, that looked like some sort of magical liquid dripping down the body. The designers, Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk, clashed Dancehall style, 80s glitz and 60s Courrèges like no one else. The collection was like a huge image, or rather, a number of visions pressed into one runway collection. But the effect wasn’t overcharged – quite the opposite. It was flawless. All the colours, themes, prints, styles, eras. That was the aim: “it’s about these dualities: how can they live not in contrast but in harmony?” Their new season offering is the perfect answer.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Grown Up. Eckhaus Latta AW19

| Design & Culture by Ed

Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta go all grown up for autumn-winter 2019: earthy colour palette, mature tailoring, constructed silhouettes. Eckhaus Latta affiliates with raw edginess, but this season it felt like the designers wanted something a bit more grounded. Their Brooklyn presentation had pieces that you will drool for next season. A teddy bear jacket; parachute dress in bottle-green; loosely fitted blazers. But still, there were hints of the label’s distinctive, arty background, like the tops and belts made out of wooden car beads. The UGG collaboration on the boots felt very, very Eckhaus Latta too.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Organza Fantasy. Tomo Koizumi AW19

| Design & Culture by Ed

When you become a Marc Jacobs protegé, are allowed to present your collection in his Madison Avenue store, get Katie Grand as a stylist, Pat McGrath for the make-up, and Gwendoline Christie, Karen Elson, Rowan Blanchard and Bella Hadid walk your debut show, be sure you will be on everybody’s lips for the rest of New York fashion week. But, all this very helpful support is just the cherry on the cake, because Tomo Koizumi‘s fashion is a star in itself. Although I would be cautious with calling Koizumi’s autumn-winter 2019 a fantasy of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino heights, this outing really was a fantasy that is just what New York needs. In the crowd of post-Philo aesthetic and too-edgy styling, Tomo’s polyester organza pieces, kept in all the shades of rainbow, are a true fairy-tale. Capes, ball-skirts, gowns of different lengths – all looking like a candy-sweet armour. Where will this major debut take Koizumi and his distinct style? Time will show. But it’s worth mentioning that Jacobs should be praised for helping out a new talent with his great platform. Hope to see more of initiatives like this in the upcoming seasons.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.