Author: Design & Culture by Ed
Emotions. Rick Owens SS19
Rick Owens’ spring-summer 2019 collection wasn’t just another Instagram-worthy fashion spectacle. True, the burning, wooden installation in the middle of Palais De Tokyo’s backyard was quite a visual attraction. But in fact, the designer himself did something that you very rarely see in the industry. Something that isn’t straightforward appealing or so-called ‘good for business’. Owens showed his anger and frustration with the current system of not just fashion, but… everything. “I’ve been frustrated with how straight the world can be, how petty,” Owens said, explaining his motives. “Just the process of getting permits to do this (the fire) was tedious”. The garments felt as well as a call for a riot, defiance. Some of the models carried torches and looked like cosmic witches wearing enormous sunglasses and cocoonish garments. Others had metallic head wears and stiff, XXL braces on their hands. There was something very dystopian about the nomadic, floor sweeping coats made of mesh-like leather. Where are those women marching? Or are they heading for the fight? You could also have an impression of a witch coven that is about to start a world-shaking sabbath. Whatever it is, Owens seems to be raging, and so, he directs all those emotions into his deep, multi-faceted work.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Lose Yourself. Paco Rabanne SS19
Julien Dossena and Paco Rabanne are a match made in heaven. The spring-summer 2019 collection is, simply speaking, superb. And, what’s most surprising for a designer who works at such historically distinct brand like Paco Rabanne, the collection wasn’t a literal archive revisit. Dossena focused mainly on Rabanne’s signature chain-mail, but refreshed it completely, so it looked incredibly light and perfect for summer. Similar to Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s Chloé this season, Julien also went for the nomadic theme. Just like her, he didn’t deliver anything overly direct or vague. No boho trends here. Rather think coin necklaces and belts, embellished bras worn under chain-mail dresses and refined sarongs. All that worn in a carefree, not too over-styled manner (Marie Amelie Sauve, love you). It’s bohème, but finally done the good way in 2018. The question is: was Julien travelling somewhere far this summer? The answer is: nope. “I didn’t really get enough time away,” he said, “so I thought more about inner travel—in the mind. About a wardrobe of someone’s souvenirs mixed with her own classics.” Spiritual, diverse, but resonating with a contemporary wearer. The last is something Paco always intended to highlight in his collections.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Woman. Chloé SS19
Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s third runway season for Chloé was a lot different from the first two, but felt distinctly like her. That’s already a sign – this woman has her own, complex style that she develops and develops, without losing some sort of personal idiosyncrasy. For spring-summer 2019, the designer investigated her more eclectic aesthetic. Think breezy, summery feel with 70s prints, amulet jewels and flowy dresses. The collection had something nomadic about it, but Natacha escaped the clichés of boho style. Tie-dye t-shirts worn with fringed mini skirts looked festival-ready, while the scarf tops, pants and dresses looked light and easy. There were also rope belts; paisley patterns all over silk pantaloons; knitted pullovers worn over loosely fit, crotchet blousons. Ramsay-Levi respects Gaby Aghion’s (Chloé’s founder) liberated femininity that was never based on regular ‘prettiness’ or specific beauty canon. The current Chloé designer’s femininity is equally strong and multi-faceted. While others do princess dresses for the closing look, Natacha sent down a pleated, maxi-length gown suited for a Goddess (note that gorgeous collar and the Grecian bracelets). To sum up: the ready-to-wear is completely desirable, the accessories are on point. With this collection, Ramsay-Levi proves once again that she’s a skilled designer, who’s capable of creating a consistent, yet simultaneously exciting vision of the brand. This seems to be shockingly rare in the industry, especially when you browse the majority of this season’s line-ups. Bravo, Natacha!
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Design & Culture by Ed 