65 Years. Missoni SS19

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Missoni‘s spring-summer 2019 collection happened to celebrate 65 years of the brand. That’s what you call an anniversary! The show was held outdoors and Michael Nyman played a piano recital just a few steps from the runway. Angela Missoni‘s collection was typically… Missoni: light knits, patchwork dresses and the signature zigzag pattern were all over the line-up. The colour palette was earthy and calm. Shortly speaking, the collection was full of warmth and felt properly grounded. Just like the brand’s reputation that hasn’t changed at all, throughout all those years. Missoni is relevant. Missoni is suited for life (whether it’s a very Italian garden party you’re invited to, a long and tedious travel or a romantic walk down the sea-side). And, what’s most surprising in today’s fashion industry, it’s independent. That’s how you pass the test of time.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Classics. Salvatore Ferragamo SS19

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It’s the second season at Salvatore Ferragamo for Paul Andrew (who does womenswear) and Guillaume Meilland (menswear), and it seems that the two are a perfect match for this Italian, heritage house that specialises in leather goods. The designers, who gracefully coordinate their roles in order to create a harmonious image of the brand, prove their integrity with this grown-up, well-considered line-up. From the casting (Stella Tennant opening the show, Carolyn Murphy closing) to the colour palette (neutrals, like sun-kissed beige and khaki, contrasted with bright turquoise or orange), it’s all about classics. There’s shirting; there’s gorgoeus outerwear; there’s evening wear that stuns with craftsmanship. Menswear is equally good – we’ve got absolute essentials like trench coats and elegant pants, all refined and kept in a loose fit. The footwear and bags (the stuff that Ferragamo sells the most) are as well refreshed. Somehow, after all these years, you want to enter the brand’s store and take hold of their goods. Paul and Guillaume, bravo!

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Duality. Prada SS19

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I wanted to break the rules of the classic,” Miuccia Prada said after he spring-summer 2019 show. “To discuss a wish of freedom and liberation and fantasy, and, on the other side, the extreme conservatism that is coming—the duality out there.Prada had a crisp white shirt topped with an elegant sweater. Then, a portion of cycling shorts, duchesse satin A-line tunics and baby doll dresses. Again, something more mature – knee-length socks and heels. Plunging bodysuits in bold, retro patterns with straps under the breasts oozed with youth. That was a collection of contrasts, especially in body exposure and lengths. But it was also a dilemma between formal dressing and dressing freely. The closing look – a dress that looked like a t-shirt and a richly embellished skirt – was like a hybrid, blurring the lines between the daily comfort and glamorous occasion-wear. But it’s also worth noting that Miuccia creates fashion for women, designed by women. Other than the ready-to-wear, the designer invited three female architects – Kazuyo Sejima, Elizabeth Diller and Cini Boeri – to design unique accessories out of the signature, Prada nylon. Whether it’s a pillow-y ‘yooo bag’ from Sejima or a tent-like coat by Diller, expect the most innovative garments of the season coming from that incredible collaboration. As usual, Miuccia treats us with mindful, intelligent fashion.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.