People Are Flowers. Rodarte SS24

September 8, 2023September 9, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

This New York Fashion Week needs some time to warm up. A swarm of publicity events that could have been an e-mail and a sea of uninspiring presentations feel like a false start. Kate and Laura Mulleavy‘s Rodarte collection – no runway this time – is an emphasis of all things this brand stands for. “We were thinking about clothing as gardens and flowers. The idea of people blooming, in a way, but also, how do we use the history of textures and color from Rodarte and celebrate that in a collection about gardens?” Flowers for spring aren’t ground-breaking, but the Mulleavy’s served a captivating take on the theme. The opening gown, with its bodice made from layers of purple and black lace and beaded embroidery at the bust, a sweeping voluminous skirt made from strips of organza in gradient shades of purple, and a matching capelet in the same organza ruffles, set the tone. The pack of the designers’ favourite actresses – from Milla Jovovich and her daughter Ever to The Bear‘s Ayo Edebiri – elevated all that flower craze into something more sophisticated. The big standouts were the ruffle dresses that harked back to Rodarte’s first collection in 2006. The vertical ruffles were pieced together from different colors of silk organza, silk chiffon, silk charmeuse, and silk georgette and were decorated with fabric rosettes. Silk bias-cut slip dresses, sometimes with little sleeves, had a 1930s feel; but it was their color palette – bright iris, peony yellow, emerald green – that made them more readily identifiable as dresses of our current era. “Even if we’re referencing an era, I don’t think that the overall coming-together of a collection ever feels vintage,” Kate explained. “So even if it’s a vibe or a cut that you could align with a time period somehow by the color or the construction, it feels fresh.”

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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The American Classic. Ralph Lauren AW’2000

August 16, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

For some reason, every year, somewhere mid-August, I’m going through Ralph Lauren‘s 2000s collections. Maybe it’s the thought of September approaching; there’s an autumnal feel about Lauren’s runway collections. And they are very inspiring, styling-wise. In the autumn-winter 2000 fashion show, “there’s a new kind of glamour that’s polished, sleek and sexy,” said the designer about his offering of simple, elegant American classics. Suits played a key role for Lauren that season – black, fitted jackets and sharply detailed trousers and skirts were worn with casual cashmere crewnecks and ivory silk blouses. Fair Isle sweaters accompanied comfortable Donegal tweeds and steely leather pants. Striking crocodile car coats and broadtail trousers added a shot of opulence to the presentation, as did the evening dresses: there were body-conscious satin and jersey gowns, as well as Persian-motif embroidered gowns. Honestly, if I saw this collection during a 2023 New York Fashion Week, I would be very pleased.

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The Ranch. Phipps AW23

August 3, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

Now that he’s decamped from Paris and relocated to the sunny Hollywood Hills in his home state of California, it’s safe to say that Spencer Phipps has entered his LA era. “I wanted to focus on the core essence of what Phipps represents and I think I can do it better in the US. It makes more sense for the brand from a marketing strategy, a business strategy, and also my own personal life.” To present the autumn-winter 2023 Phipps collection, he chose a quintessential Hollywood location, Big Sky Movie Ranch. If you’ve never heard of this sprawling landscape set deep in Ventura County, you’ve certainly seen it on TV and in the movies; it was used as a set for everything from Little House on the Prairie to Twin Peaks to, most recently, Babylon. If Phipps’s design story were a script, this would be that pivotal scene where the protagonist takes control of the narrative. Over the year that he’s been back, he’s refined the brand identity, drawing on inspiration from its rugged workwear roots; formally introduced denim and underwear, and built out his womenswear. There’s even talk of moving all production from Portugal to LA. He counts these as the progressive steps that align with a commitment to US-based manufacturing and sustainable practices.

Phipps’s work is grounded in reality; he extracts elements of American subcultures—western, grunge, punk – and reimagines them through a contemporary lens modeled on a diverse cast of characters including real cowboys, bikers, and one multi-hyphenate jiu jitsu black belt-magician-guitarist. The designer ties the brand divisions together through cohesive design and layered styling. For the new season, the influence of Richard Avedon’s American West series came across in blanket capes and chap jeans crafted from upcycled leather scraps and vintage denim, whereas grommets and d-rings spoke to the influence of the ’50s teens in Karlheinz Weinberger’s photography. Standout pieces from the new womenswear included long, straight, slouchy jeans and a deadstock pullover anorak paired with a camouflage midi skirt. On the men’s side, there were “butch florals” in the form of camouflage patterns and subtle hieroglyphs representative of the four archetypes of masculinity – the king, warrior, magician, and lover. “We’ve always been doing our own thing and will continue to do so,” he said. “Our voice stood out in the Paris landscape and I believe the same will happen here, but with a bigger community.”

Twisted Nostalgia. LRS SS24

July 30, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

At the age of 18, Raul Solis packed his bags and moved from the West Coast to New York. His coming of age coincided with the rise of the Strokes, Yeah Yeah Yeahs, and the Rapture, who played at small venues to beer-fueled crowds at the time. For LRS‘s spring-summer 2024, Solis indulged in what he called “twisted nostalgia” by referencing the early 2000s and its early ’60s teddy-boy roots in a collection that was indie – without the sleaze – both in aesthetics and origin. It’s no small feat to keep a self-owned business afloat. Elements of the collection – the melted Mickey Mouse figures, a pair of pants made from old American flags – speak to the world we’re living in today, one where the dream coexists with nightmares. The crystal blood drops on slim-cut pants and jackets reference the struggle but not in a macabre way. But LRS also offers more relatable, day-to-day pieces. The designer cut a striped turtleneck to expose just the right slice of midriff and accessorized a pair of low-cut rocker pants with an extra-big belt buckle and a trailing skinny scarf. A mini kilt looked anything but uniform, and wide-cut jeans were made to rave. All of these pieces conveyed a narrative without being tricky.

Butterfly. Blumarine Resort 2024

July 25, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

For resort 2024, Blumarine emerges from the armored chrysalis of the Joan D’Arc-themed autumn show and pops out as a butterfly in shining colors. Turquoise. Hot pink. Golden yellow. “The look isn’t as dirty as in the last few seasons,” Nicola Brognano elucidated. The designer said he wanted something more elevated and sensual, “a different energy, more joie de vivre, a more summer feel“. From the label’s archive he excavated a calmer color palette – nudes, pale pink, light blue, white – that he amplified into brighter vibrations. “There are no concepts, just sensations,” he said matter-of-factly. The look was ultrashort, body skimming and slinky, with viscose jersey providing a smooth, liquid surface malleable enough for wrapping, draping, and sash-knotting. Matching the barely-there minidresses’ colors, stretchy leggings that covered the needle heels of strappy sandals elongated the figure into a lean monochrome silhouette. Brognano unearthed a Blumarine lingerie look from years past, steering its once flirty, seductive attitude towards the overtly provocative. A tight-fitting bustier and leggings combo in stretch jersey with lace inserts was the season’s “new suit proposition.” Roses, another of Blumarine’s emblems, were also given the Brognano treatment. More thorny bush than manicured garden, they were laser-cut and appliquéd on a white minidress, or printed on a hot-pink mesh tube dress. The brand’s ubiquitous cargos came in a simplified evening version. In black canvas with a satin intarsia, they signaled a slight shift in the approach to Y2K that put Brognano’s Blumarine on the map in the first place. Asked how he feels about the in-your-face bare-midriff look that has ignited copycats by every high street brand, he was rather adamant. “Y2K? Honestly, I think it’s a bit passé.”