Lived-In Quality. Aubero SS26

July 5, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ending the spring-summer 2026 menswear coverage on a high note: my top favorite (next to Prada) collection of the season coming from Aubero. Why I’m ranking it this high? It’s because it truly resonates with me, wardrobe-wise. The emerging American brand, lead by California-native Julian Louie, and its latest collection are beautifully autobiographical – yet somehow feel like home to an outsider who’s just getting to know Aubero. There’s a highly-appealing, lived-in quality to those over-sized flannel shirts, tailored “cargo” pants, and durable trench coats with delightful signs of patina. And there’s also something irresistibly sensual about the sleeveless, wrinkled-taffeta top-dress with confident open-back. Louie’s work is both nostalgic and forward-looking; his approach to material – “material festish” as he calls it, encapsulated in frayed antique textiles or scraps from past collections under mesh in one-of-a-kind coats or trousers – feels new, not Bode-ish as in case of many other new brands coming from the U.S.. Much of this collection relies on Louie’s mental souvenirs. The skirtlike wraps are a nod to the surfers he would see in Santa Cruz changing by their trucks, a clutched towel on their waists as they slipped out of wetsuits. I’m especially in awe of the all-white look consisting of a voluminous shirt and shorts with shiny finish topped over the lightweight pants. Worn with flip-flops, this look is both seductive and absolutely cool. Looking forward to more of Louie’s work.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Sublime. Giorgio Armani SS26

July 5, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

“It seems that the new generations of designers are becoming passionate about my work, and I must say that this is a source of pride for me because it means that I can speak to young creatives who probably weren’t even born in the ’90s. This also means that the authenticity that I have always put into what I do is still reflected today,” Giorgio Armani mused after his spring-summer 2026 menswear show. As his brand celebrates 50th anniversary this year, there’s literally nothing more valuable for a designer who created such monumental heritage as being relevant and appreciated after all those decades. Italian menswear and womenswear owe a lot to Armani, and it’s good to see him being very rightfully embraced and applauded. The latest collection coming from the maestro was sublimely Giorgio, through the filter of Pantelleria, the volcanic island where he has summered for years. Matte black leather used in outerwear and everyday suiting echoed the island’s raw stone landscape, while a wide palette of marine blues and bougainvillea purples and pinks referred to the sights of Mediterranean nature that enchant the designer every single time he steps on the elusive, distant island. Dreamy and undeniably handsome were the quilted-collar jacket and double-zip gilet looks in treated linen that followed the North-African-inspired palm motif. Also especially strong were the accessories, running from wave-shaped woven rattan shoes to beautifully canvas satchels. Long live Giorgio. And kudos to Leo Dell’Orco, the long-time head of Armani’s men’s style office.

ED’s SELECTION:

Armani Prive Cuir Zerzura Unisex Perfume

Giorgio Armani Men’s Upton Double-Breasted Suit

Giorgio Armani Men’s Pleated Virgin Wool Trousers

Giorgio Armani Men’s Jacquard Swirl Crewneck Sweater

Giorgio Armani Men’s Silk Denim Effect Button-Down Shirt

Giorgio Armani Men’s Asymmetrical Lyocell Bomber Jacket

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Marinière. Officine Générale SS26

July 4, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

For spring-summer 2026, Officine Générale‘s Pierre Mahéo was thinking about turning the essence of Parisian style to a wardrobe ready for sea-side summer. It’s defined by pajama-inflected tailoring, with scrunched sleeves and nonchalantly rolled cuffs, but most of all, per usual with Mahéo, a deep dive into ultra-light materials, like lightweight “parachute” poplin, seersucker, and, for men’s and women’s suiting, a breezy blend of cotton and linen. In addition to the eternally chic marinière – what French wardrobe would be complete without it? – shirts were cut long enough to double as dresses, popovers had universal appeal, and swingy belts were fashioned from raw fabric knotted and fringed like a lanyard. My favorite look involved olive-green pants with pleats, styled absolutely effortlessly with a striped top, light-blue shirt, a navy jacket, and a pair of flip-flops (the footwear staple that very abruptly became this year’s prime menswear discourse). The perfect summer look is right here.

ED’s SELECTION:

Officine Générale Nanni Nylon Bomber Jacket

Officine Générale Gingham Seersucker Button-Down Shirt

Officine Générale Sophie Italian Wool Pants

Officine Générale Alex Brushed Plaid Button Down Shirt

Officine Générale Giovanni Wool Sport Coat

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Awakened. Lemaire SS26

July 4, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh-Tran – who has given birth since the Lemaire show in January – wanted to deliver a collection that felt “awakened”. It certainly was awakened in terms of sensuality. The Lemaire man and woman are sheding cocooning layers and confidently reveal some flesh, a lot more leg. Think a super-chic crinkled leather, knee-length skirt worn with a blazer and a pair of mesh sock-sandal heels, or else silky culottes that gave baggy drawers a sensual spin. One look was especially unexpected: a beautiful lace dress in ochre, worn with an oversized trench coat and chestnut pumps. You don’t see lace frequently on the Lemaire runway, and it felt so right.

ED’s SELECTION:

LEMAIRE Leather Ballet Flats

LEMAIRE Draped Convertible Paneled Organic Silk-chiffon And Silk-jersey Top

LEMAIRE Twisted High-rise Barrel-leg Jeans

LEMAIRE Gear Leather Shoulder Bag

LEMAIRE Belted Wool-blend Trench Coat

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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High Fashion. Marc Jacobs AW25

July 3, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marc Jacobs showed his latest collection on Monday, it’s Thursday, and I’m still on a high!!! A fashion high! And I don’t want it to end.

The king of New York fashion is one of the last designers who knows how spark true euphoria with his runway work. And also one of the last fashion creators who comprehend, cherish, and nurture what Walter Benjamin once called aura.

It’s the magnetic, almost transcendent presence certain artworks possess. Originality, authenticity, and the sense of time and place woven into an object: this is a Marc Jacobs garment, through and through, traditionally presented at a light-speed pace at The New York Public Library. In an age of fast fashion and mass production, aura is what sets apart the truly iconic from the easily replaceable. It’s that feeling when a piece doesn’t just dress the body – it tells a story. Aura is like a drug you can’t deny. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.