La Riviera. Jacquemus SS19

September 24, 2018September 24, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Simon Porte Jacquemus had great luck with the weather. If he presented his spring-summer 2019 collection just a few minutes later in the backyard of the Italian embassy in Paris, the grey clouds wouldn’t have much mercy for La Riviera‘s colours and the very typically Jacquemus, beach-ready attitude. This season, it was a crossover of Simon’s two fascinations: the French seaside (which is a classic theme reoccurring in his line-ups) and the Italian seaside (the new love he discovered this summer, as his Instagram feed suggests). It’s clear that the designer adores passion and heat that comes from the Mediterrean way of summer dressing. Also, this collection again proves that Jacquemus is consistent with his style. Light, knitted maxi dresses with sensual slits; eveningwear that looks so effortless that you wouldn’t mind wearing it on the daily basis; leg exposing silhouettes and a number of cleavage revealing shirts. Of course, it’s all far from anything vulgar – those clothes are carefree, and liberate the body. The newest additions? Instead of XXL straw hats, Jacquemus sent down the runway an enormous, orange basket bag that will be all over Instagram come summer. But there were also tiny-miny bags and shoes with heels that literally looked like earrings. Also, it’s the debut season of Jacquemus’ beachwear, which will be a sure best-seller when it hits the stores. In a way, it’s a regular Jacquemus show, based on the signatures that this young designer has already managed to consolidate in his career. La Riviera is very close to his two previous collections: La Bomba and Le Souk, especially in case of clothes. Not that it’s bad – it’s the wardrobe you dream of every summer. But I kind of miss the more daring Jacquemus, the one that was already on everybody’s lips in the industry, but still wasn’t mainstream hype.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Creative Process. Marni SS19

September 24, 2018September 24, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marni by Francesco Risso is playful, that’s one thing. Second thing is that Risso lets his clothing talk for themselves – and that’s a rarity in Milan (except for Miuccia Prada, who’s been Francesco’s boss for a few years when he worked at Prada). Those aren’t just dresses, jackets and a bunch of accessories. Every single piece is a story. Whether we’re speaking of a bustier dress with an one-of-a-kind collage print or a necklace so eclectic that it reminds you of Iza Genzken artwork, Risso tells fashion tales that are neither minimal or opulent – two poles that seem to simplify today’s fashion in to two camps. For spring-summer 2019, the creative director as well developed this idea of creative process, and finding the right moment to stop working on something. He explained that in a further way backstage of his show. “It started with the process of the work in the studio, and thinking of it as a painter’s canvas, which keeps changing and modifying in the trials and mistakes – suddenly, that becomes the work itself”. His Marni seems to be experimental, but not over-pushed to look too arty. And simultaneously, each of the garment is wearable and suited for the daily life. Nothing proves that more than the diverse casting of models, of different shapes and life paths. I guess Marni is the collection from Milan I will surely look back at more than once this season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

65 Years. Missoni SS19

September 23, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Missoni‘s spring-summer 2019 collection happened to celebrate 65 years of the brand. That’s what you call an anniversary! The show was held outdoors and Michael Nyman played a piano recital just a few steps from the runway. Angela Missoni‘s collection was typically… Missoni: light knits, patchwork dresses and the signature zigzag pattern were all over the line-up. The colour palette was earthy and calm. Shortly speaking, the collection was full of warmth and felt properly grounded. Just like the brand’s reputation that hasn’t changed at all, throughout all those years. Missoni is relevant. Missoni is suited for life (whether it’s a very Italian garden party you’re invited to, a long and tedious travel or a romantic walk down the sea-side). And, what’s most surprising in today’s fashion industry, it’s independent. That’s how you pass the test of time.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Classics. Salvatore Ferragamo SS19

September 23, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s the second season at Salvatore Ferragamo for Paul Andrew (who does womenswear) and Guillaume Meilland (menswear), and it seems that the two are a perfect match for this Italian, heritage house that specialises in leather goods. The designers, who gracefully coordinate their roles in order to create a harmonious image of the brand, prove their integrity with this grown-up, well-considered line-up. From the casting (Stella Tennant opening the show, Carolyn Murphy closing) to the colour palette (neutrals, like sun-kissed beige and khaki, contrasted with bright turquoise or orange), it’s all about classics. There’s shirting; there’s gorgoeus outerwear; there’s evening wear that stuns with craftsmanship. Menswear is equally good – we’ve got absolute essentials like trench coats and elegant pants, all refined and kept in a loose fit. The footwear and bags (the stuff that Ferragamo sells the most) are as well refreshed. Somehow, after all these years, you want to enter the brand’s store and take hold of their goods. Paul and Guillaume, bravo!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Connected. Jil Sander SS19

September 22, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s the third season at Jil Sander for Lucie and Luke Meier. And actually, it’s the first time when I’m convinced that they’re the right fit for this brand. This designer duo always highlight that Jil Sander isn’t what many people have in mind – an image of stern, cold minimalism. Sander’s work was minimal, true, but it rather turned towards tactility, comfort and a certain connection between the garment and the body. All that was beautifully presented in Meiers’ spring-summer 2019 collection in Milan. There were those boxier, slouchier pieces (like the pistachio shirt with exaggerated cuffs) and more feminine pieces (take the flowing, knitted dresses or the black, ankle-length skirt with hand-sculpted frills). The accessories game was exceptionally good this season as well. XXL bags (held upside down); platform sandals; jewellery that looked like wearable sculptures. It’s worth visiting the nearest Jil Sander boutique this season.