West London Love. Hillier Bartley SS17

October 9, 2016October 9, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Surprisingly, Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier decided to reveal their newest collection during the schedule time of Paris Fashion Week, temporarily leaving behind the idea of see it now, buy it now they did in previous seasons. So, what’s Hillier Bartley like for spring-summer 2017? The designers’ eternal love for 70s West London bohemia is oozing in every single piece of this look-book. Discussing their inspirations, Luella named everyone from Zandra Rhodes to David Hockney, who were the quintessence of colour, partying and fashion back in the times. It’s absorbing to see how these two female designers evolve during their design process, and succeed in keeping it true to their style. Hillier Bartley classics? Best expressed in seasonless kimono jackets, high-waisted pants and fringed scarves.

If other designers focused so much on consistency, their collections would instantly become monotonous. At Hillier Bartley, consistency is a base for having true, fashion fun. For spring, we’ve got Savile Row-inspired tailoring, all covered in multi-colour ostrich feathers; those thick knit sweaters (a continuation of autumn-winter 2016) became even softer with fluffy, purple fur sleeves; loosely fit, pink shirt was a nod to David Bowie’s style. Hillier Bartley isn’t about styling, though – if you separate the clothes from the looks, they appear to be (slightly eclectic) essentials of your on-the-go, everyday gear.

Also, take a look at Katie’s accessories (this time, accompanied by Manolo Blahnik’s different-colour suede pumps) in the season’s bold fuchsia and orange accents. From illustrated clutches with tassel charms to paperclip earrings and signature bunny-bags, Hillier Bartley wardrobe welcomes brilliant, new additions.

Multi-Faceted. Comme des Garçons SS17

October 8, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Spring-summer 2017, in overall, is a season of optimism and joyous colours. But Rei Kawakubo never was, and will be, a comformist, who cares about current tendecies. The latest Comme des Garçons outing saw a line of the biggest, or even the most gargantuan silhouettes that have ever appeared on a runway. All in black, white, red and with hints of tartan plaid, the voluminous dresses and cocoon-coats made the models’ bodies (and heads) “drown”. Those weren’t clothes any longer, but wearable sculptures, which challenge the frequently over-used statement “fashion is art“. Actually, there’s not much sense in seeking inspirations behind Kawakubo’s work – her creativity, and mind, is a multi-faceted universe, where nothing is what it seems.

Europe. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood SS17

October 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood is a love affair between those two designers both in fashion, and in life. It’s the second season where Andreas fully leads the main-line of Westwood’s punk-empire, and it’s madly good. Inspired with European cultures, Kronthaler took a glance at Slavic symbolism, and sent out a model wearing a voluminous, straw garment which might be a dress (or a coat). Heavily ornamented bustier necklines were exaggerated, too, but this time the direction turned to Marie Antoinette times and pre-revolution France. The model in a drifty, multi-coloured frame was an abstract vision of a woman at a typically Dutch market stall. It perceivable that the creative director is intrigued with Old Europe’s contrasts and history – he cleverly delivered those accents in a humorous, very dramatic way. But the collection isn’t only about the past. It smartly moves the topic of feminism (and femininity), so something that still triggers so many intense discussions in few European countries. A jersey dress with trompe l’oeil illustration of naked body, or a violently ripped skirt which exposed spring-summer 2017 swimwear were the most thoughtful, yet catchy looks.

Colour Palette. Haider Ackermann SS17

October 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

January of next year means a big debut during men’s autumn-winter 2017 season: Haider Ackermann was recently named the new creative director of Berluti, one of the leading menswear brands. Ackermann has already got used to a pretty light schedule, with two collections for women, and two for men – how will his new role affect his work at his namesake label? Time will show.

But let’s focus on the present. Haider’s latest collection for women is classically Ackermann, which means sleek, masculine silhouettes, lots of draping and a kind of rebellious, rock & roll attitude. However, spring-summer 2017 differed from the designer’s last few seasons with it’s colour blast. High-waisted pants and jackets in lovely pastel-pink; long, pleated skirts in energetic orange and yellow; a loosely fit suit worn by Iris Strubegger looked tempting in jade-green. It’s not the first, when Haider nails it with his unique colour palette, but this collection is a killer. Just like the spiky hair, resembling punk tomahawks. There was just one thing I was quite unpleasantly surprised to see – the t-shirts with slogans. After a Dior show, which was based on a basic idea of a tee, “Be Your Own Hero“ or “Silent Soldier“ type of signs just didn’t fell right, noting Haider Ackermann’s poet-like aesthetic. The defiant mood is quite perceivable, so why make it even more clear?

All That Jazz. Undercover SS17

October 4, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jun Takahashi is the designer behind one of the most avant-garde brand originating from Japan – Undercover. Every collection delivered by him is a separate story, subverting the reality of ready-to-wear into something much more sophisticated, nearly magical. For spring-summer 2017, Jun investigated the world of jazz, his favourite music genre. However, it’s not the mood of Chicago musical and sultry-hot “And All That Jazz” song! Saxophones were printed in an old-fashioned, trompe l’oeil-style on t-shirts and wide pants, while the last, spectacular looks were three leather outfits kept in a collage-like patchwork of drums, keyboards and trumpets. A new, fresh glance at a ‘dandy’ – worth considering next spring.