Fire. Miu Miu RE16

July 5, 2015July 6, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Paris was on fire yesterday! And not just because of the weather. Miu Miu had its Resort 2016 staging in a “Miu Miu Club” and Miuccia Prada truly outdid herself. The models, which looked like cool girls who “club” on Friday nights, wore layers of polos, python leather jackets and circle-shaped earrings which brought the mood of 80’s. And, yes, the logomania is on. The elongated t-shirts and cowboy boots had big, neon coloured MIU MIU all over them. Also, there was a throwback to Miu Miu’s summer 2010 collection – naive, youthful prints of cats and swallows were on mini-dresses and A-lined skirts. Fun, fun and fun. That’s how Miu Miu is described by Signora Prada. Definitely, today’s fashion needs some fun. And Miuccia approves.

Proportions. Sacai RE16

July 5, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Over-sized yoga pants. Masterful layering. Smart fabric usage. This is what Chitose Abe of Sacai offers us for Resort 2016. Volumes, which remained fearless in the matter of sweaters and dresses, is as always a signature of this Japanese brand. In addition to all the familiar A-line variations and balloon-bomber jackets, Chitose explored longer lengths in this collection, whether with modern-day transparency or in the same manner as her chic collars. This new, easy softness will not go unnoticed among those who admire but feel overwhelmed by Sacai’s unusual, but comfortable silhouette. A great collection with great clothes – and with great styling.

Men’s – Kurt. Saint Laurent SS16

July 2, 2015January 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Kurt Cobain. Courtney Love. These two names were audible during the recent Saint Laurent collection by Hedi Slimane. Hedi is famous for making crap looking clothes super expensive, but this time he went too far – the wardrobe for his SS16 men and Resort 2016 women is having a lot in common with today’s teenagers which fancy skating, alcohol and wild parties. And, Kurt Cobain eternal messy style, which might be cool only if its natural. Ripped denim (which looked so tattered that I nearly thought they were taken from a “too cool for school” person); every 14 year old’s must have chokers; chunky, slouchy cardigans. The worst? The styling, or rather lack of any styling. This what Hedi does now at Saint Laurent is purely about giving people back their clothes from adolescence , but in extreme prices. Is it fashion? Is it style? I suppose not.

Men’s – Louis XVI Today. Comme Des Garcons SS16

July 2, 2015January 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rei Kawakubo and Julien d’Ys are a perfect creative couple. She is designing clothes full of intelligent innovation which is in perfect symbiosis with history of fashion. He is the “hair artist” who does mind-blowing head creations. Comme des Garcons for men’s SS16 is an explosive fusion of Louis XVI nostalgia and extravagant modernism. This season, d’Ys created towering neon yellow bouffants, a striking contrast to Kawakubo’s collection of revisited suits – which saw trousers slit down the legs, jackets with their collars removed or silhouette unexpectedly severed, and shirts that hung in tatters. For the hair d’Ys was given free hand by Kawakubo to take the direction he wanted. “I have to have freedom,” he says, speaking after the show. “If somebody said to me ‘OK, I want that’, then I can’t do anything, I can’t! I’m completely frozen because I have to be very free and I have to love the person that I work with.”

Men’s – Need For Speed. Loewe SS16

June 28, 2015January 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson definitely had a blast during his last trip to Asia. In a Hong Kong antique shop, he found an early 18th-century screen from Japan—koi jumping over waves—that he thought looked so modern, it influenced him and his next collection. Loewe SS16 came from attempts of gathering something old and something new – tradition, culture and innovation, technology. That’s why there was a fuse of leather, which is Loewe’s heritage, and manga prints which are usually thought of as futuristic. But also, a topic of fast cars was moved and that is clearly visible on the bags and trousers. Not everything is totally clear in here, but with this collection Anderson proves he is the designer of tomorrow – looking forward to the following day, but not forgetting about the past.