Palm Spring. Louis Vuitton Resort’16

May 7, 2015January 5, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Nicolas Ghesquiere truly amazed me this time. Louis Vuitton‘s Resort 2016 is the first collection, in which he shows he is really the boss. The collection, presented in Palm Springs, California, was a sunny blast of fresh, slightly eccentric fashion. Nicolas presented the silhouettes, that have never been present in his previous shows for the house and Balenciaga. Long, woman-warrior dresses with embellished gems; high-waisted trousers with harness belts were everywhere; beautifully laser-cut leather jackets which reminded me of Victoriana era brought on the mood of Grimes and Lana Del Rey. But also, some sexy shorts and crop-tops appeared, giving us the vibe of the real all-American summer. But what spiced up the atmosphere of the show was the model casting. Ghesquiere’s favourite bae’s were here – the red-haired Natalie Westling, Argentinian it-girl Mica Arganaraz and the designer’s muse, Fernanda Ly with her mesmerising pink hair.

What may I say more? That California truly suits Nicolas Ghesquiere. And that he is a perfect match for this always open-minded and innovative house.

K-Coco. Chanel Resort 2016

May 5, 2015May 6, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Chanel went Korea (Seoul specifically) this time. For Resort 2016 (yes, already for next spring). Coco listening to K-Pop? Minnie Mouses which are all about CC? It’s another Karl Lagerfeld fantasy, where everything is covered with camelias, made of tweed and embellished with chains. Also, for this pre-summer collection, Chanel went “modern” and brought bold geometric patterns which rather make me think of 70’s than the futurism of the Far East. Naturally, it was all about being cute and youthful, which is explained through the very excessive dose of blush pink colour. I can’t say the collection was bad, but it lacked originality and sense, just like in everything Chanel does lately.

Playful Simplicity. Celine Pre-Fall’15

May 2, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

There is always a kind of strong anticipation while waiting for the release of Celine’s pre-collections. What Phoebe Philo is going to propose to us this season? Pre-fall at Celine usually means a selection of classical, sophisticated clothes kept in toned colours – this time, Phoebe went slightly more playful, pushing her austere comfort zones. After seeing the AW15 collection, I wasn’t surprised its pre-version will be kind of fun. Hand-embroidered folklore caftans, fringed ponchos and over-sized, burgundy culottes are just few to mention. There was also the slip-dress action – worn in a very Celine-ish way, it felt light and slightly infantile, but in a good way. In overall, a confusion between mature elegance and childish innocence was presemt in these as usually great clothes. Can’t wait to see it strike the stores!

Coo-ee Couture. Romance Was Born SS15

April 19, 2015January 5, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

A bit Meadham Kirchhoff, a bit Schiaparelli – the Aussie brand, Romance Was Born took us to a wonder-land of diversity and nature. But in their signature, splendour style. That’s why their collection for summer is called “Coo-ee Couture”. Fearless design duo Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales didn’t disappoint. The eye-catchy collection is the result of Romance Was Born’s collaboration with artist, fashion designer and fellow free spirit Linda Jackson, who hand-painted each garment for the show. The intense jewel-toned dresses, mixed prints – including a striking beaded “Waratah “design – bold texture and glossy black plummage were accessorised by bright ceramic jewellery from the Australian label, Dinosaur Designs. If people in Australia are so easy-going with coo-coo fashion, then I love it!

Threads Fun. Ace & Jig AW15

April 3, 2015April 3, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ace & Jig is a brand which looks forward to artisanal threads and interesting textiles. For their AW15 collection, Cary and Jenna collaborated with Caroline Kaufman – bold, knitted scarves with pompons and chunky, fluffy cardigans were introduced, contrasting with delicate cottons. Also, over-sized skirts and coats appeared, creating a pilgrim-like mood, worn with these gorgeous hats. I am happy tis all-American label starts to have it’s signature style on fleek (yes, on FLEEK).