Under The Palm Tree. Isabel Marant SS15

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“My girl’s got a city to run,” Vampire Weekend frontman Ezra Koenig intones on SBTRKT’s “New Dorp. New York.”, the soundtrack to the Isabel Marant show, and the collection is all about that woman. A city girl in tailored but textural shapes, accented with elements from her travels to Africa and exotic islands. Tailored trousers and pleated, tiered mini skirts mixed with knitted shag coats and fringed tabarts, wrapped and tied at the waist. Maybe that wasn’t the best Isabel Marant collection, but you can’t say it was bad. It was french, and it felt like a good take on beach walk. It was very Parisienne, and at the same time ethnical.

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Fashion History. Dior SS15

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The music was so bad, that Anna Wintour run away in the middle of the show, screaming “horrible fashion”. Well. Half that’s true. The music certainly was bad, and the clothes were also not really good… Raf Simons continues the same idea as during his last couture- to show history of fashion changing throughout one show. First we had medival gowns, pilgrim caftans. Then, lady-like skirt-and-tops. At the end, cosmic jumpsuits. Mostly all-white collection, with few drops of red velvet and blue tulle, felt for me not so good. It kind of didn’t have this thing that Raf usually brings to Dior. This modernity of past or how he calls it, starts to be boring. And I still can’t forgive the shoes. They looked to heavy, and destroyed nearly all looks. I don’t want to hate, but this thing doesn’t work on me. Hope Dior is not falling down again…

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Sun Kissed. Loewe SS15

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J.W. Anderson couldn’t go wrong. His debutant women collection for the Spanish fashion house, Loewe, is a masterpiece. Presented in the UNESCO building, full of concrete everywhere, the suede and drapings of dresses, skirts and bags looked perfect. Jonathan Anderson really studied Loewe’s archives- the brand is famous for its high quality leather. The collection itself was very modern, and of course used a lot of leather, and mostly suede. The pastel dresses had suede looking like to nearly fall out; the beige trench coat looked super effortless with those pants and orange mules; the jackets and tops were all about patent leather; and bags, like the Amazona had a totally new transformation. The t-shirts were embroidered in traditional, Spanish way, with a relaxed theme- a sunny, summer view at Mediterraean bushes full of olive trees and calm animals. The models had their eye-brows bleached, which gave all the looks sophistication, and most of them worn gold, zig-zag earrings. In other words, Anderson brought so much emotional, interesting ideas to the collection, that it simply feels like if his heart belonged to Loewe. And surely, it is.

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Parisian Chic. Lanvin SS15

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Beautiful. Simply magnifique! Alber Elbaz, the designer of Lanvin, celebrates 125 years of that old, Parisian brand! Jeanne Lanvin created this brand for chic women- Alber Elbaz continues her motif up to today. For SS15, we’ve got really beautiful clothes here. Pink v-neck slip dresses. Check. Non-chalant blazer. Check. Statuesque gowns. Check. Everything is sexy, but with taste. And lets also note, which amazing models were present (and all my favourites): Edie Campbell, Jamie Bochert, Natalie Westling, Mica Arganaraz, Malgosia Bela… it was a real model clash. I also fell in love with the kind of dark, melancholic atmosphere- the dresses were feminine, but with a typical, elusive mystery hidden in it. If talking of the king of chic, mister Alber simply takes the crown this season.

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Ethereal Punks. Ann Demeulemeester SS15

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Sebastien Meunier, whose the second season at Ann Demeulemeester feels like a vocabulary of the house’s heritage, was shown yesterday at Paris Fashion Week. The clothes were black & white, mesh and romantic fabrics were seen. The models had those punk-ish hair, but mostly it all felt silent and ethereal. In other words, it feels like if Ann was still present in the house, but with lack of progress. Beacaues that’s metaphorically true- Sebastien uses old house codes and hits, just to make it all more “commercial” and too Demeulemeester. The collection is not bad- but it feels like if the new creative director didn’t really try that hard as he should to make this Belgian brand be loved and respected. Hope the next season will be better…