Men’s: Jokes on Classic. Prada SS15

June 23, 2014June 23, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

So, what did Prada serve us this time for her men’s SS15 and women’s Resort’15? Something you would probably not think of: a pool. In the middle of the show venue, we had a 90 deegree rectangular swimming pool filled with water. A pretty perfect mood for summer, isn’t it? But all the spark was in the fashion that was presented. “I interpreted the classics. It means everything and nothing. It means what looks good for me” said Miuccia Prada backstage, meaning that for menswear, she always can do what she likes most, while for womenswear, “we always have to push, push, push.” I totally agree with her in that fact – the men’s clothes were a fresh, updated version of her 70’s ugly-chic uniforms and the sandals had this Prada mood written all over it. “It’s kind of conservative. Conservative looks more new” Miuccia added. Utah boys visiting the concrete jungle, embroidered top-stitched everything, brown leather-detailed denim and cashmere versions of charity shop knits… it all felt old, but new in a way it was a bit forgotten by people. But as it sounds typically, nothing is really normal at Prada. The exagarated stitches are just the prove! You see them everyday on your denim, but here, Prada made them in the spotlight. If coming back to the pool, there was also an irony about it. Surrounded on all sides by bleachers covered in dodgy golden-brown carpet (only Miuccia would pair that with a glittering pool) that extended to a raised runway on the water, it was a Miuccia-style take on an old summertime chestnut. “It was a joke on what’s classic,” she commented after the show. So, was that just another show? No, it was a very Prada show.

About the artist: Israeli sculptor. He adopted the name Absalon on his arrival in Paris in the late 1980s. During his short career he achieved widespread recognition for the 1:1 scale architectural models that he constructed of idealised living units. These wooden models, painted white, demonstrate an obsession with order, arrangement and containment, and have associations both of protective shelters and monastic cells.

Men’s. Hybrid. Calvin Klein SS15

June 23, 2014June 23, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Beige. Beige. Beige. And then a little drop of yellow; little splash of red; and the whole red / yellow / orange PVC sweatshirts appeared. That was possibly the most dynamic change of action during the whole Milan Men Fashion Week! Calvin Klein summer was a sportish collection full of casual shorts, trousers (I love the cuts) and tank tops, that went through reincarnation of their colour. “Transparency is very important to move ahead with straightforwardness and simplicity” said Italo Zucchelli, the designer. I just want to add it reminded me of Miu Miu for AW14 (these vinyl!)…

Sporty. Paco Rabanne Resort’15

June 20, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Julien Dossena is just the right thing for Paco Rabanne. He does exactly this, what Nicolas Ghesquiere did at Balenciaga. Julien brings this futuristic Parisian house back to its rise, in a more sophisticated and 21st century way… For resort 2015 which was styled by designer’s friend, Marie Amelie Sauve, Dossena introduced a new level of sporty elegance. Strongly coloured tank tops with straps worn with pencil skirts and polished sweatpants styled with interesting tops. And of course Julien’s signature thing: the V cut! It was on the skirts, on the blouses… Maybe the new Paco Rabanne doesn’t remind us the Space Odyssey, but you need to admit- there is something extremely futuristic about it.

Neo-Hippie. Christopher Kane Resort’15

June 20, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

What I enjoy about Christopher Kane is the fact that he can’t be tamed. Alhough he belongs to Kering group, he doesn’t hide his talent just to be more commercial. The new Resort 2015 collection is mix of his favourite things: lace, floral prints, denim and neon colours. The dresses were radiant and artsy while the pockets of jeans shorts & trousers were embroidered with beautiful flowers and insects. If talking of jewellery that’s pretty new at Kane, we had these little daisy shaped brooches that felt very childish and naive… just like the overall collection. There was also about hippie and the 60’s in here: this flower power brings peace and harmony, for goodness sake.

Men’s: Bruce Chatwin. Burberry SS15

June 19, 2014June 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Bruce Chatwin spent much of his early career specialising in the work of the impressionists – think Cézanne, Degas and Monet – at Sotheby’s. It’s always a delight when Bailey himself turns to art for his references (think back to his Hockney inspired SS14 menswear collection, or his homage to the Bloomsbury Group for AW14 womenswear). The early Parisian impressionists were pioneers of elevating ordinary subject matters through the interplay of light, brushstrokes and composition. It’s much like what Bailey achieved today. The collection was covetable, buzzing with an infectious youthful energy yet routed in something far deeper. Christopher Bailey makes Burberry a fashion house which is very open for Bristish art legacy. And that’s really good because the men collection by Burberry are again exciting and interesting! For SS15, I enjoyed most the radiant colours which are perfect for long, Summer evenings. The accessories were also here the key- the leather, printed clutches with smart texts written on; colourful sneakers; the funny Woody Allen like hats… surely that’s one of the best Burberry collections ever!