Sublime. Giorgio Armani SS26

July 5, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

“It seems that the new generations of designers are becoming passionate about my work, and I must say that this is a source of pride for me because it means that I can speak to young creatives who probably weren’t even born in the ’90s. This also means that the authenticity that I have always put into what I do is still reflected today,” Giorgio Armani mused after his spring-summer 2026 menswear show. As his brand celebrates 50th anniversary this year, there’s literally nothing more valuable for a designer who created such monumental heritage as being relevant and appreciated after all those decades. Italian menswear and womenswear owe a lot to Armani, and it’s good to see him being very rightfully embraced and applauded. The latest collection coming from the maestro was sublimely Giorgio, through the filter of Pantelleria, the volcanic island where he has summered for years. Matte black leather used in outerwear and everyday suiting echoed the island’s raw stone landscape, while a wide palette of marine blues and bougainvillea purples and pinks referred to the sights of Mediterranean nature that enchant the designer every single time he steps on the elusive, distant island. Dreamy and undeniably handsome were the quilted-collar jacket and double-zip gilet looks in treated linen that followed the North-African-inspired palm motif. Also especially strong were the accessories, running from wave-shaped woven rattan shoes to beautifully canvas satchels. Long live Giorgio. And kudos to Leo Dell’Orco, the long-time head of Armani’s men’s style office.

ED’s SELECTION:

Armani Prive Cuir Zerzura Unisex Perfume

Giorgio Armani Men’s Upton Double-Breasted Suit

Giorgio Armani Men’s Pleated Virgin Wool Trousers

Giorgio Armani Men’s Jacquard Swirl Crewneck Sweater

Giorgio Armani Men’s Silk Denim Effect Button-Down Shirt

Giorgio Armani Men’s Asymmetrical Lyocell Bomber Jacket

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Marinière. Officine Générale SS26

July 4, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

For spring-summer 2026, Officine Générale‘s Pierre Mahéo was thinking about turning the essence of Parisian style to a wardrobe ready for sea-side summer. It’s defined by pajama-inflected tailoring, with scrunched sleeves and nonchalantly rolled cuffs, but most of all, per usual with Mahéo, a deep dive into ultra-light materials, like lightweight “parachute” poplin, seersucker, and, for men’s and women’s suiting, a breezy blend of cotton and linen. In addition to the eternally chic marinière – what French wardrobe would be complete without it? – shirts were cut long enough to double as dresses, popovers had universal appeal, and swingy belts were fashioned from raw fabric knotted and fringed like a lanyard. My favorite look involved olive-green pants with pleats, styled absolutely effortlessly with a striped top, light-blue shirt, a navy jacket, and a pair of flip-flops (the footwear staple that very abruptly became this year’s prime menswear discourse). The perfect summer look is right here.

ED’s SELECTION:

Officine Générale Nanni Nylon Bomber Jacket

Officine Générale Gingham Seersucker Button-Down Shirt

Officine Générale Sophie Italian Wool Pants

Officine Générale Alex Brushed Plaid Button Down Shirt

Officine Générale Giovanni Wool Sport Coat

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Awakened. Lemaire SS26

July 4, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh-Tran – who has given birth since the Lemaire show in January – wanted to deliver a collection that felt “awakened”. It certainly was awakened in terms of sensuality. The Lemaire man and woman are sheding cocooning layers and confidently reveal some flesh, a lot more leg. Think a super-chic crinkled leather, knee-length skirt worn with a blazer and a pair of mesh sock-sandal heels, or else silky culottes that gave baggy drawers a sensual spin. One look was especially unexpected: a beautiful lace dress in ochre, worn with an oversized trench coat and chestnut pumps. You don’t see lace frequently on the Lemaire runway, and it felt so right.

ED’s SELECTION:

LEMAIRE Leather Ballet Flats

LEMAIRE Draped Convertible Paneled Organic Silk-chiffon And Silk-jersey Top

LEMAIRE Twisted High-rise Barrel-leg Jeans

LEMAIRE Gear Leather Shoulder Bag

LEMAIRE Belted Wool-blend Trench Coat

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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High Fashion. Marc Jacobs AW25

July 3, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marc Jacobs showed his latest collection on Monday, it’s Thursday, and I’m still on a high!!! A fashion high! And I don’t want it to end.

The king of New York fashion is one of the last designers who knows how spark true euphoria with his runway work. And also one of the last fashion creators who comprehend, cherish, and nurture what Walter Benjamin once called aura.

It’s the magnetic, almost transcendent presence certain artworks possess. Originality, authenticity, and the sense of time and place woven into an object: this is a Marc Jacobs garment, through and through, traditionally presented at a light-speed pace at The New York Public Library. In an age of fast fashion and mass production, aura is what sets apart the truly iconic from the easily replaceable. It’s that feeling when a piece doesn’t just dress the body – it tells a story. Aura is like a drug you can’t deny. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:

Marc Jacobs Structured Floral Lace Dress

Marc Jacobs Floral Brooch Oversized Top

Marc Jacobs Aline Silk-Blend Skirt

Marc Jacobs Seamed Up Satin Sleeveless Mini Dress

Marc Jacobs Large Suede Chain Shoulder Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Godly. Rick Owens SS26

June 30, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

With the monumental retrospective that has just opened at the Palais Galliera (can’t wait to see it autumn!), the ritualistic, ecclesiastical fashion show that had models dive – or rather baptize themselves – in the pool of Palais De Tokyo’s courtyard, and the totemic structure that fronted the guests of the scene, Rick Owens can be easily compared to a godly entity (with a huge, huge following of loyal clients and fans from all over the world). His new collection sublimates all his divine powers. Nylon, denim, silk taffeta, leather, and flesh are the main materials at play: Owens sliced shorts, cropped and frayed jackets, and unzipped tranches of biker in order to present sections of skin beneath. A bare, sculpted chest is the ultimate Rick accessory. Fringed leather cloaks – made in collaboration with Straytukay – sat on their wearers like tattered bat wings. Dracula collared leather coats created a powerful clash with fluorescent, sequinned maxi-dresses two models wore near the finale. Two polar energies shape Owens’ work: affection for darkness and the need for vulnerability. This collection handsomely presented us an exquisite synergy.