After the first season at Hugo Boss, the New York based designer Jason Wu is really into German minimalism this time. His chalky, minty and very pastel colour palette made this Resort collection very cold but at the same time elegant and chic. The seductive zip skirts, white trousers and collar blouses make it as usually lady-like in case of Wu- but now, in more fresher way!
The new collection by Rag & Bone for Resort’15 was all about fine, labour clothing. Texture was key, in other words, as was the emphasis on looks that could transition from season to season. The signature piece may have been the waistband-free A-line shorts, done in leather or lightweight suiting fabric, which had the chillaxed air of skate shorts but didn’t ape that look exactly. The sweatshirts were worn slouchy on white cotton shirts, while over-sized leopard printed dresses were style with super cool white sneakers and socks. “Do you‘resort’?” Wainwright and partner David Neville are keenly attuned to their customer’s lifestyle, and they make it their business not to offer her fantasies but to elevate her reality.
Showing his collection in an old Manhattan townhouse, it’s visible that Marc is somewhere between relax and parting. His AW14 was so relaxed and the Resort’15 is a total contrast- the models like Waleska Gorczevski or Esmeralda Reynolds presented printed, colourful party dresses full of sexy embroideries and Victoriana flowers. We could also notice the ethernal sequined mini-skirt a la Dolly Parton and the 60’s inspired patterns of flowers and other Marc-like things.”People getting dressed up, going out. Happy, lively,” offered Jacobs’ design director, Joseph Carter, when he was asked for a few words backstage. In other words, thanks to the sparkle and bliss, Marc Jacobs got our New Year Eve dresses all sorted up. Personally, I love this collection… as usual in case of MJ (and these fur cuties got me!).
Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin are interested in women. Their New York based label is all about simplicity of clothing and confident, cosmopolitan, polished yet unfussy in their sense style. Their Resort 2015 collection was just it! The models looked gorgeous in every dress and every skirt. The prints were calm but eye catchy. And the colours were perfect for Spring in New York… I see everything here worn at a Central Park stroll. Although it’s all very mature, these clothes are going to look really good on a 20 and up! Tome, I feel a new know how brand is forming… More on http://tomenyc.com
Nicolas Ghesquiere stays for good at Louis Vuitton- his latest collection was a first ever Resort collection presented on the runway. And as you surely know, it was in Monaco. The collection itself was a mash-up. The fabrics were mixed up (lace with knitwear), the colours were very radiant and vibrant and it all felt sweet and tasty. Ghesquière is still liking the fit-and-flare silhouette he introduced for Fall, but there was more diversity on the runway tonight. High-waisted, slightly flaring trousers will stir memories for fans of the leg-elongating pants he used to make at Balenciaga; on the other hand, embroidered slips with scalloped hems were among the least structured things he’s ever done. And because this was a Resort collection—in stores longer than any other season—the show ran the gamut, from a sheared fur coat to jersey T-shirt dresses. The handbag offering has grown, as well: The Petite Malle now comes with a chain handle, and he’s added a new, wide-mouthed bucket bag. In my opinion, it’s still not the fullest of what is hidden in Nicolas talent- but the collection has its strong points I like.
About the artist: Yves Klein was a French artist considered an important figure in post-war European art. He is the leading member of the French artistic movement of Nouveau réalisme founded in 1960 by art critic Pierre Restany. Klein was a pioneer in the development of Performance art, and is seen as an inspiration to and as a forerunner of Minimal art, as well as Pop art.
Design & Culture by Ed 