Architecture. Tod’s SS27

September 25, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

A year ago, I visited the Olivetti showroom in Venice, tucked discreetly beneath the colonnade of Saint Mark’s Square. Designed by Carlo Scarpa, the space stuns with the way it sustains a sense of harmony in possibly the busiest place in the Floating City. Modest in scale but rich in detail, like all of Scarpa’s architectural gems, it’s full of warmth within its overall 1950s minimalism.

Matteo Tamburini’s Tod’s is like Scarpa’s Olivetti – only the context is Milan and the local fashion industry, where other giants shout at the top of their lungs, but all you hear is some mumble jumble. Meanwhile, Tod’s delivers the most supple, butter-smooth and effortlessly chic take on reduction, where there’s no place for the superfluous, and functionality isn’t merely pragmatic, but beautiful.

A close-to-the-body fitted top with elegantly tucked sleeves, like napkins at your favourite restaurant; a leather dress that doesn’t look like a weight to carry, but like caramel dripping down the body; perforated bags and knits – a very Carlo detail, IYKYK – that simply feel breezy and light. Tamburini chooses subtlety over noise and serves a collection that is fully wearable – and somehow exists outside of any trend cycle. Like any great architecture.

ED’s SELECTION:

Tod’s Studded Suede-trimmed Glossed-leather Ballet Flats

Tod’s Tim Zaino Mini Leather-trimmed Suede Shoulder Bag

Tod’s Gommino Suede Loafers

Tod’s Bauletto Croc-effect Leather-trimmed Suede Mini Bag

Tod’s Glossed-leather Mules

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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New Routine. Marni SS27

September 24, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

As in the case of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Fendi, Meryll Rogge’s Marni thrives more in menswear than womenswear. It’s way more defined, but at the same time unpredictable and somehow effortless in its randomness. Consuelo Castiglioni’s Marni was a laboratory of style – imperfect, intentionally cookie-cluttered, always desirable to those who felt intimidated by Prada and didn’t quite feel like the flirtatious Miu Miu chick. But in womenswear, her Marni is kind of turning into a routine – which is disturbing considering it’s only her sophomore collection, yet you already get that impression of mild weariness. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Budding Romance. Fendi SS27

September 24, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s tempting to cross out Maria Grazia Chiuri’s attempts at Fendi, but I believe something is gradually germinating from this slowly budding romance. Her menswear is simply delightful – the way she throws a fur jacket over a pair of jeans emanates a sense of cool I haven’t seen at Fendi in years. It’s interesting to see how naturally she approaches menswear, almost as if it comes to her more effortlessly than womenswear. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Fatherland. Jil Sander SS27

September 23, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

I’ve got literal goosebumps thinking about how accurately Simone Bellotti‘s Jil Sander collection channels the world of Paweł Pawlikowski – the Oscar-winning Polish director behind “Ida“, “Cold War“, and especially “Fatherland”. Whether that was the designer’s conscious or unconscious impulse is an open question. But he certainly knows how to capture a very particular kind of German-ness – one that perfectly echoes Pawlikowski’s cinema and its historically complicated entanglement with Eastern Europe.

There is a certain sadness, brashness and sentimentality here that feels almost haunting. Małgosia Bela – who happens to be not only the original Jil Sander woman, but also the film director’s wife – appears in an hourglass-shaped skirt suit with a white shirt tucked in, creased and slightly undone. The hair is immaculate, the little black pumps perfectly prim. To understand what I mean, you simply have to watch one of the aforementioned films. It’s an unspoken visual connection, rather than a literal reference.

That same poignancy runs through the masculine trench coats, tweaked pencil skirts and tailoring with their somewhat peculiar, almost nun-like silhouettes. Even the little pop of colour feels loaded: a two-piece set in a postcard-like print, but all wrinkled, as if it were the abandoned promise of the West. This is a collection that makes you want to unpack generational trauma. Bellotti reminds us that contemporary fashion can be uneasy.

ED’s SELECTION:

Jil Sander Mélange Wool Jacket

Jil Sander Checked Cotton T-shirt

Jil Sander Satin-trimmed Wool Midi Skirt

Jil Sander Wool Cardigan

Jil Sander Slingback Leather Pumps

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Skirt Is Resistance. Prada SS27

September 22, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Prada spring-summer 2027, sincerely. For those who wear skirts. It’s an act of resistance. Because femininity is resistance in 2026. Modern theories preach that being feminine is anti-feminist. But what about different kinds of woman-ity? Those that find power in the softness? In the domestic? Or in the flirt with life? Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons ask their question for the culture. Lover, mother, wife, nurse, queen, girl, princess, poetess, dominatrix, muse, bitch. All adventurous women do. Hair undone, leather well-worn, forget trousers! Be naive. Be matriarch. Be childish. Be regal. Be strict. Be uptown. Be downtown. Be a woman, regardless of gender. It’s a state of mind.