Men’s – Positivity. Louis Vuitton SS20

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It’s Virgil Abloh‘s third season at men’s Louis Vuitton, and probably his best. For the spring-summer 2020 show, the brand held it in the real-life, cobbled streets and cafes of the Place Dauphine. The audience sat under trees on Louis Vuitton park benches or sipped a glass of champagne at outdoor tables. The view? A collection of easy, big shapes, flowing pants, real flowers stuck into harnesses and some really good outerwear. People like Dev Hynes of Blood Orange were part of the show’s casting, which made it even more intriguing. Of course, there were some similiarities to Craig Green’s garments in these wearable, geometric constructions that closed the show, but the collection’s main focus was on couture-level craftsmanship. Flower embroideries climbed up tulle coats, and a couple of immensely luxe iterations of hoodies, made from minutely pleated chiffon. “I’m learning, and taking much more of a couture approach”, he told the press after the show. It was a collection oozing with pure positivity, from the delicious pastel colour palette to the flower power elements.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Time Travel. Louis Vuitton Resort 2020

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Nicolas Ghesqière seems to be not over his love for the past decades. Louis Vuitton‘s resort 2020, which was presented at the historic TWA Flight Center in New York (the fantastic space, renovated for years and soon to be open as a hotel, was designed by Eero Saarinenback  in 1962), was all about the past: 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s, combined with Elizabethan NYC’s art deco heritage. Which again reminds us that fashion, unfortunately, has problems with finding inspiration anywhere else. But back to the collection. Stewardess dresses and Chrysler-Building-inspired bags; 1980’s big sleeves and combat boots of the 1990s; Catwoman skullcaps and pantsuits of Wall Street. Highlight? Marte Mei van Haaster’s strass-lined caped crop-top. But in general, not a fan of this collection.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Duality. Prada SS19

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I wanted to break the rules of the classic,” Miuccia Prada said after he spring-summer 2019 show. “To discuss a wish of freedom and liberation and fantasy, and, on the other side, the extreme conservatism that is coming—the duality out there.Prada had a crisp white shirt topped with an elegant sweater. Then, a portion of cycling shorts, duchesse satin A-line tunics and baby doll dresses. Again, something more mature – knee-length socks and heels. Plunging bodysuits in bold, retro patterns with straps under the breasts oozed with youth. That was a collection of contrasts, especially in body exposure and lengths. But it was also a dilemma between formal dressing and dressing freely. The closing look – a dress that looked like a t-shirt and a richly embellished skirt – was like a hybrid, blurring the lines between the daily comfort and glamorous occasion-wear. But it’s also worth noting that Miuccia creates fashion for women, designed by women. Other than the ready-to-wear, the designer invited three female architects – Kazuyo Sejima, Elizabeth Diller and Cini Boeri – to design unique accessories out of the signature, Prada nylon. Whether it’s a pillow-y ‘yooo bag’ from Sejima or a tent-like coat by Diller, expect the most innovative garments of the season coming from that incredible collaboration. As usual, Miuccia treats us with mindful, intelligent fashion.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

No21 Pre-Fall’16 Collages

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Autumn is just a step away (read: September is coming, people!), and pre-fall 2016 is gradually arriving at Concept 21 Store! Specifically, I’m talking about No21 and its eclectic wardrobe of semi-denim trousers, striped, rib-knits, over-sized dresses in military hues, and soft, lace shirts designed by Alessandro Dell’AcQua. For this occasion, I’ve prepared a set of collages which reflect the mood of the collection – romantic, feminine, with an evening, soigné manner. Every collage is a separate story, matching the attitude of a given outfit. Wolfgang Tillmans photo of a rusty winow is the background for a badass, shearling biker jacket and an embroidered, blue shirt. Voluminous, beige coat instantly associates with Charlotte Gainsbourg’s elusive, French personality. This season’s woman presented by No21 is like a cat – she walks her own path, just like the black-and-white kitty on pre-fall sweater. 

www.concept21store.com

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All collages by Edward Kanarecki

Bold Essentials

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Spring is here, so it’s the high time to supply yourself with fruits, fruits and once more, FRUITS! Or, if you like, accessories which will become your bold essentials of the season. A nutritious, fruity brunch is served – N021 best-selling “knotted” sandals and Ca & Lou double-ring with Swarovski’s stones, only at Concept 21 Store.

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Photographs by me (Edward Kanarecki)