New Age. Dries Van Noten AW25

January 22, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

The new age has begun at Dries Van Noten under Julian Klausner‘s creative direction. One good thing: his debut menswear collection doesn’t feel as plain as the studio-designed womenswear we’ve seen back in September.

But his autumn-winter 2025 confusingly feels like a collection that could come from another Antwerp-originating brand: Maison Margiela (seen through John Galliano lens) or Ann Demeulemeester (black coat cinched at waist with thin string-belt and black feathers). The Willy Vanderperre-shot lookbook gives yet another Belgian designer’s distinct vibe: Raf Simons.

I hope that in the proper runway debut come March, Klausner will somehow show us what Dries Van Noten means without Dries. This outing doesn’t say much.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

Maestro. Giorgio Armani AW25

January 22, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Let’s be honest: 99.9% of menswear designers in Milan this season look up to the Italian maestro: Giorgio Armani. As they should. He’s one of the last living legends. And he just doesn’t stop.

The designer’s autumn-winter 2025 collection was just sublime. Gorgeously weathered leather jackets looked as if they could have been adapted straight from Armani’s archive on display in his Silos space in Milan, worn this season against ruby velvet shirting and roomy gray trousers in loden-thick wool. Oh, the velvet! The best kind of: meaty, but cascading. Just sumptuous, whether in electric ocean-blue or deep, deep burgundy.

Armani’s clothes look credibly contemporary and quintessentially Milan. Forever.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

What’s Hot (22.1.25)

January 22, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

GET THE LOOK:

Valentino Garavani Lace-trimmed Ruffled Cotton, Linen And Silk-blend Mini Shirt Dress

Valentino Garavani Gathered Silk-satin Head Scarf

Valentino Garavani Beauregard Bow-embellished Embroidered Leather Slippers

Isabel Marant Altay Tasseled Whipstitched Leather-trimmed Suede Shoulder Bag

Oscar De La Renta O Disc Hoop Earrings

Radically Elegant. Dunhill AW25

January 21, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Simon Holloway’s revolution at Dunhill makes one want a bespoke suit. The designer’s knack for radical elegance in menswear is both: seductive and aspirational.

Especially when we’ve got this ultra-fine collection formal car-coats and blazers, crafted from high-end British traditional fabrics (think Melton, Donegal tweed, wool whipcord, cashmere tartan) into lighter versions – and tailored with a softer, more supple construction. Holloway is also an accessory guy: leather driving gloves are his signature, just like a proper velvet bow-tie.

Doing traditional, occasion-driven menswear without veering into archaic territory isn’t easy, but Holloway has a knack for striking that balance. The autumn-winter 2025 collection felt fresh and cohesive, and its rigor – absolutely handsome.