It’s quite difficult to review this studio-designed Chanel collection, because there’s nothing wrong with it. It’s a grey-zone. And grey-zones easily change into danger-zones. In case of a brand like Chanel, not offering any point of view except for tweed, denim and bit of feathers, can be deadly in the long run. Clients might fall for the logo, but for how long? Chanel needs personality.

In December, we’re expecting the new designer announcement. According to Chanel’s spokesperson, it will be somebody who will stay with the brand for the next decade: the brand wants longevity in this new chapter. I might not be number one Hedi Slimane fan, but I fully admit: he can offer that to Chanel. The Jacquemus rumors? People will go crazy for the French dream in the first season, but this isn’t a designer who can orchestrate a brand like this in long-term. Also, real dress-making skills are needed at hands. Seeing John Galliano at Chanel would be a beautiful fever dream. Phoebe Philo is certainly the woman who could lead this maison with grace. Just like the Olsens, who are auditioning well with their latest The Row collections. But there are also fair chances Chanel is preparing a secret in-house designer to take on the role.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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