Real, Raw, Sexy. Eckhaus Latta SS25

I’ve said it before, I will say it again: the Eckhaus Latta duo have and bring what Helmut Lang had and brought to New York at the turn of millennium. Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta‘s clothes are sexy without trying too hard; they have a sense of style that’s real; and they have that raw honesty about them. Their spring-summer 2025 collection is so far one of the biggest highlights of New York Fashion Week – and has actual clothes one wants to wear (I do!). Eckhaus Latta is a go-to brand for not-so-average knits, and they remained a standout in the latest offering. There’s also the element of playfulness about the labels’ pieces. They invite you to wear them whatever way you want. “I think both of us are very drawn to that sample sale vibe of, ‘there’s something that looks like a pile of rope on a hanger,’” Latta explains. “We’re like, ‘What is it?’ Obviously we have to deal with the idea of hanger appeal, but I think for us, letting these things have a kind of mutability and playfulness, like the scrunches in all these different ways, feels inherent to our curiosity.” Another big thumbs-up goes to the lookbook imagery where you really see how the clothes work on (and with) the body. Of course, there was a fashion show – or rather, a fashion happening – where friends of Eckhaus Latta had dinner and later did an impromptu runway parade. It looked genuinely fun. This brand seems to be one of the few in New York that knows what’s up.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

Lost Plot. Khaite SS25

One good thing about Khaite‘s latest collection: it wasn’t shown in some dimmed, cavernous space like in the past couple of seasons. You could finally see the clothes on the runway. But you also saw how Catherine Holstein‘s brand is dangerously losing its plot. There’s just too much of ideas coming from The Row (high-necked collars, voluminous organza dresses) and Lucie and Luke Meier’s Jil Sander (macrame dresses, the overall “soft minimalism” styling). It’s very difficult to distinguish what’s distinctly Khaite about this line-up, even if it seemed to be one of Holstein’s most daring, experimental concepts to date. However at this price-point, one wants to see authentic ideas from a brand.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

 

América. Willy Chavarria SS25

In New York, brands either do clothes for the sake of clothes or create fashion that has a meaning (but then the “clothes-making” part often stumbles). Willy Chavarria is a rare example of a designer who does both seamlessly, creating garments that are amazingly tailored but also give you real food for thought. In his spring-summer 2025 fashion show, the models walked out, in a single file, with the American flag as the monumental backdrop. What came across was a voluminous yet exact silhouette that was a callback to the uniforms of the American working class – hotel workers, concierges, construction people, foremen. And so there were balloon sleeves on classic zip-up jackets, tonal shirt and tie combos, cotton duck work fabric turned into tailored Victorian jackets with princess sleeves or baggy cargo skirts, and really good denim pieces . Many of the looks were accessorized with a set of keys – and a little crucifix – dangling from a belt loop. Within the context of the show it seemed like a plea for America – or rather “América“, as the collection was titled – to be more like the promised land everyone imagines it to be. “This [season] is all about power to the people,” Chavarría said. “It’s this country through the voice of the immigrants, and the people who make this motherfucker run.”

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!