It’s A Smash. Lacoste AW19

Lacoste is a tricky brand. Its roots are in tennis, while the green crocodile logo is often perceived as dismissingly as Tommy Hilfiger’s or Calvin Klein’s. But Louise Trotter (former designer at Joseph) made me fall in love with her vision of the brand, completely. Her debut was a smash, so a winner strike according to tennis jargon. Her love for minimalist, clean lines and athleisure are true to her style, so it wasn’t a surprise her aesthetic goes so well with Lacoste’s context. The autumn-winter 2019 show was all about tennis clothes, but transformed into desirable, high fashion. Polo necks in ribbed knit; chunky vests were worn over maxi-lenght, breezy dresses covered with the crocodile print; trackpants came in over-sized, slouchy jersey; zipped sweatshirts were kept in bold colours. The opening looks, featuring the chicest shade of beige, informed Trotter’s stance on her Lacoste: expect elevated daywear with a sporty spin. Big love.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Not Demanding. Miu Miu AW19

Miuccia Prada‘s latest Miu Miu collection didn’t really touch my heart this season. It maybe had to reflect today’s youth, ready to face the world, but to me it felt like a show done ‘last minute’ (I know it wasn’t, though). Bit of camo print there, florals here. Baby doll dresses and trekking boots aren’t a surprise anymore. The long cape-coats? Didn’t buy them, either. The collection had to feel spontaneous in a way, maybe grunge-y even, but there’s a difference between ‘cool eclecticism’ and ‘messy’. But if you put the clothes out of the show’s styling, you can see few great pieces. We’re all exhausted sometimes, and Miuccia definitely felt like it’s good moment for a non-demanding, commercial collection. That was Miu Miu’s primal idea, after all.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.