People went wild when they learnt about The Row‘s photo ban at their Paris Fashion Week show. Well, they didn’t know Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen were preparing the most beautiful lookbook shot on film by Jamie Hawkesworth that would do absolute justice to their new season offering. Patience pays. In general, time is a big theme for the Olsens. Their garments are so timeless, their look is simultaneously contemporary and as if from another decade.

For resort 2025, the designers – who are having an seismic impact on other brands – eschewed some of their more intense experiments in cocooning and draping, replacing them with a gorgeously thoughtful ease. That was well represented by the likes of the oversized and all enveloping comfort of two masculine-inflected coats, one black, one navy, and popped by the surprise of their accessories; a knitted hat encrusted with silver metal embellishments with the former, ginormous gold and ebony hoop earrings with the latter. Vintage-tinged hats with character are having a huge comeback, all thanks to the Olsens. That easiness was also evident in the way a burnished tan leather blazer was popped over another, with black lean pants; ditto the perfection of cut and fabric evident in a charcoal gray pantsuit. But things took a bit more of a daring turn, too. The ivory shaggy robe coat, with its richly unfettered texture, secured with a knit sash belt whose tassels had been dyed red, somewhat redolent of north African Berber craft. Another robe coat, in the kind of black plissé fabric Issey Miyake might have used back in the day, had a whole lot of volume without weight. The frayed fronds on a rawly woven ivory dress which slinked its way to the floor, or a fluid black top and pants embroidered with a gazillion shimmering beads, were eveningwear specials. And then, just to bring us back to what always seems to last and last and last, what the Olsens have made their life’s work at The Row, out came a simple gray cashmere sweater worn by Malgosia Bela, slouchy, tactile, desirable, and a pair of simple gray pants, a look accessorized by what looked to me to be their now-classic Margaux bag.

The Row classics? Always.

ED’s DISPATCH:

Stepny Oversized Wool And Cashmere-blend Turtleneck Sweater

Roan Pleated Wool Wide-leg Pants

Moon Oversized Cotton-poplin Shirt

Abby Suede Shoulder Bag

Penelope Velvet Beanie

Boheme Leather Mary Jane Ballet Flats

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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