Fashion
Characters. Magliano AW24
Luca Magliano is the name that finally shakes up the term “emerging designer” in case of Italian fashion – which has always been monopolized by the hegemony of big brands. Being the guest designer at Florence’s Pitti Uomo, Magliano presented a collection that delivered the true, uncompromising essence of the brand: poetic, heavy-on-tailoring clothes with a punk spirit at heart. Characters – not just models – swathed in gray, mud and sage green garments strode the long staircase used as a runway at the Nelson Mandela Forum. What stood out the most was the layering which in case of Magliano goes to extremes and carries a certain sense of fluidity: a varsity jacket worn over a too-long chunky sweater, an over-sized Armani-esque jacket topping a billow-y shirt and voluminous cargo pants, a plum, buttoned cardigan styled as cape over a black boucle coat… the list of outfit-sandwiches goes on and on. What else makes this brand so different comparing to the gloss and perfectionism of Italian runways is the styling that feels spontaneous and utterly authentic. Autumn-winter 2024 hero look: the silver fox model in sequined pants and a cat-bearing fuzzy sweater, plus unexpected accessories: a what seems to be plastic grocery bag and velvet slippers in burgundy. It’s just the beginning of menswear fashion month, but this look already seems to be one of my ultimate favorites of the season.







Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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What’s Hot (11.1.24)
What’s Hot (10.1.24)
Like A Hug. Ottolinger Pre-Fall 2024
Ottolinger is a brand that best captures the gritty, experimental ambience of contemporary Berlin. Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient‘s pre-fall 2024 collection seeks harmony between the idiosyncratic and a more grounded approach. “We’ve been creative and experimental for a long time, but with this collection what we wanted to achieve is like giving that big hug we all need right now”. A hug definitely comes to mind looking at all the furry and fluffy textures that enfold the models in the lookbook. The sage green jersey top and strap-embellished leggings worn with a fleecy chocolate miniskirt is a combination “that connects with what we grew up with, that’s almost dressed up but also casual” (a very good summary of style in Berlin). The furry fabric returned as a tailored jacket with wide-legged trousers, or as deep cuffs on green knickers.


The Ottolinger designers aimed to offer a collection of “softshell layers” that would be easy to master, even if many are rooted in traditional Swiss garb that’s anything but. Take, for example, the classic dirndl, the likes of which lives on mainly in vintage Oktoberfest photos, and which neither designer thinks they could wear. Unless, perhaps, it was reincarnated as a mesh crop top, a long printed dress paired with a tailored blazer, or exuberantly printed body-positive separates. Taking a cue from traditional men’s garb, lederhosen is revisited in mesh, or as shiny flared trousers in red and white chalet checks. Fun!


Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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