What a collection! Erdem Moralıoğlu‘s resort 2019 collection is about chic royalty at its best. So, what an Erdem woman might want to take from this season? Brocade bustier dress with detachable balloon sleeves (and that pearl necklace), for sure. All those chiffon pieces and feather moments. Not forgetting about the loveliest floral gowns with velvet inserts. Well, I guess the contemporary Marie Antoinette would take it all, without a second thought!
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Christopher Kane‘s pre-fall 2018 is for all the impossible princesses out there. Acid splashed neon lace, witchy allure… not your average cute and charm.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
It’s impossible not to fall in love with Molly Goddard‘s charming, carefree and one-of-a-kind designs. During the last London Fashion Week, I had an impression that it was Molly’s show that really stood out the most. I wrote about the slight Lady Bird feeling I had throughout the autumn-winter 2018 outing. And now, when I’m looking back at this tulle-loving and gingham-patterned collection, so much optimism comes up to my mind. It’s like Kylie Minogue’s ecstatic Impossible Princess album from 1997 – loud, powerful, happy. Also, everyone should admit that Goddard’s impact across the industry (and other designers’ moodboards…) is very, very noticeable. Just look at Off-White and Stella McCartney this season – I see you, copycats. I doubt they would cherish tulle that much if Molly didn’t make it a statement again.
If you’re about to invest in a piece to love this spring, see the grey Robyn dress, ruched sleeve sheer top in pink and the delightful August skirt
.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Some young designers appear on everyone’s lips thanks to their strikingly unique talent. Some luckily get to the mainstream by dressing a celeb, or rather an Insta-girl. Meanwhile, Richard Quinn‘s phenomenon got elevated through an exceptional combination: the guy has the talent. And, the guy had Queen Elisabeth II in his show’s f-row. I suppose the biggest names in the industry would be life-fulfilled after such an honour. For Richard, it’s just the beginning.
Quinn is the first recipient of Her Majesty’s British Design Award that is here to raise and support UK’s emerging fashion stars. With his knack for collage-ing and manufacturing prints in the most fantastic ways, there’s no wonder why the designer won. “It all feels a bit surreal,” Quinn exclaimed backstage of the show. “I only found out a few days ago that I’d won. When I saw the blue cushion on the front row, I knew it was real; I knew she was coming.” The emphasis that Richard puts on prints and patterns is impressive not only because he does wonderful ball gowns with a modern twist or floral-shocker puffas. It’s the sense of unity he builds among young designers and fashion students in London with his print studio in Peckham – it’s there, where he shares and lets for an open-access to printwork. And who would have thought that he has graduated with a master’s from Central Saint Martins just a few years ago? A bright, bright way future is there for Quinn, I believe.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
When everyone’s sensitive towards the topic, Christopher Kane says it out loud: let’s talk about sex. The autumn-winter 2018 collection, similarly to the last season’s domestic kinkiness theme, enters the fields of sensuality like no other. The Joy of Sex, the 1972 illustrated guide of sexual positions and techniques by Alex Comfort, was the starting point for Kane. Some of the most expressive illustrations coming from the original version of the book appeared on the dresses, while mottos – ‘More Joy’, for instance – appeared on black knits and sweatshirts. The collection holds even more of ‘those’ moments, just slightly more subtly. Black leather was used for the coats and mini-skirts with lace inserts. Paneled, zippered dresses let for displaying or concealing different parts of the body – can be worn during the day and the night, how practical! Of course, Kane has in offer some less daring pieces, like chic suites or embellished midi-skirts. Still, the ‘provocative’ pieces are the strongest points of Christopher’s eroticism-in-fashion conversation.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Design & Culture by Ed 