Marques Almeida is super cute this season. The rising-star label shows off with their signature denim, but also brings a lot of new “things” – bright knitted dresses, brocade and fur (possibly faux) and polished leather accessories. Models marched to the no-nonsense sounds of Bjork’s 1995 “Army of Me”, their hair hanging in undone grungy locks. The attitude reminded me of Corinne Day’s photography from the 90’s, “It was a lot about those shoots where you would have these really expensive garments with a wrecked sofa” said Paulo Almeida. The final result? A very #funkyoffish collection. It’s cute and it definitely stole the hearts of London fashionistas.
London
Drama at it’s Best. Giles AW15
Drama is the thing this season, that’s sure. After Marc Jacobs (the heavy Diana Vreeland boheme), Thomas Tait (elusive horror mood) and Thom Browne (a 19th century hospital vs. mafioso funeral), Giles Deacon shows us that a fashion show is not only a stiff presentation of clothes – it’s a performance. It’s a stage for actors – models – showing emotions through their walk and clothes. And in this statement, I would like to highlight Giles drama the most. The show was just extraordinary – Edie Campbell wore a latex Victorian blazer; Stella Lucia had a pink ribbon tied around her chiffon turtleneck – dress; Anna Cleveland, the star of this show, simply danced in a twirling organza gown. All girls had black lips and something ultra-vivid about them – maybe it’s Katie Grand’s styling? Or the old-fashioned beauty of British fashion shows? I can’t explain. But I am truly seduced by Giles for fall.
Suspiria and Him. Thomas Tait AW15
Do you know the horror movie called Suspiria? If yes, then you totally will understand this eerie and disturbing Thomas Tait collection. Latex gloves, wide pantalons, leather skirts and bloody red cowboy jackets. The invitation’s still from Dario Argento’s 1977 horror masterpiece Suspiria was echoed on pleated dresses – changed into digital print for Tait, made from screen captures done on his laptop while watching films in bed. “They’re kind of really shitty and a lazy way of doing some kind of informal research. I thought it would be really interesting to make these highly intricate garments and undercut them with a crap image from the film I love.” The dramatic venue and the music – created by Frederic Sanchez – matched the melancholic, slightly violent mood. Summing up – the collection is very, very interesting and… elusive?
Winning LVMH’s Young Fashion Designer prize last year has meant a huge difference to Thomas Tait, who like many young designers struggled with keeping the business working – not becaues of lack of ideas, but funds. “The money kept me from going out of business to be honest,” he said. And that’s pretty much a very happy ending for Thomas (in case of sponsoring), and hopefully it will be one for other money-struggling designers.
Modern Boudoir. Christopher Kane AW15
For Christopher Kane, February is the month of buzz. The AW15 collection presented during #LFW was accompanied with the opening of his first ever flagship store in London, on Mount Street. The store looks sleek and modern – the interior reflects the aesthetic of the brand and clothes. But coming back to the collection – we are talking about sex in here. The opening look – a seductive velvet suite. Then, the game changed it’s manner into fluid-like organza and hand-made embroidery. Lastly, Chris brough an orgy of hand-appliqued illustrations of naked women and men… literally, having fun. Seeing the model Alexandra Elizabeth having a polygamic relationship on her body made everybody feel puzzled and a bit concerned. Not that I oppose this type of relationship, but… which women would want to wear a dress representing such, uhm, event? That’s a topic which must be discussed.
Sophisticated. Barbara Casasola AW15
Bringing on the Latin American heat and temper, Barbara Casasola shows a sophisticated side of her aesthetics. Black turtlenecks styled with flared skirts and black ballerinas (or yellow, if you want to cheer it up). The pleating was the spotlight this season—a touch Miyake-esque, but Casasola put her own signature spin on that look. And her showpiece efforts featuring multicolored silk fringe simultaneously contrasted with the pleats theme and carried the collection’s symbolic weight. The fringe appeared as if they were doing a little dance in celebration.










































