Trend Report AW14

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As the winter shows for 2014 ended, I must admit- that was the season of elegance. Comparing to SS14, it wasn’t artsy, but it was classical. The pieces are mostly timeless and wearable, while the colour palette is between black and pastel pink to seductive red and safe beige… maybe you may say it sounds boring, but don’t be disappointed- it’s not. Just recall Alessandro Dell Acqua at Rochas, Jeremy Scott at Moschino, Nicolas Ghesquiere at Louis Vuitton, the “relaxing” Marc Jacobs collection or 70′s mad Prada! No. That wasn’t a bad season. It was a season of calmness and femininity.

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Cocoon Coat- Large coat means more than a fur this season. And if it’s a cocoon-parachute coat, then it’s even better! It’s warm, practical and artsy- you may wear it the whole winter, forgetting about sweaters, scarves and all others! Kenzo, Chloe, Yohji Yamamoto

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Sweet Sixties- This time, the sixties mean biker jackets, leather coats, fur tops and monochrome mini-dresses. The perfect example is Gucci, which was inspired with archival jet-set and timeless pieces… Just like Louis Vuitton which showed as a coat that is already a must-have of the season. Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Victoria Beckham, Saint Laurent

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The New Knitwear- Forget your grandma’s sweaters. AW14 is the time of new knits- they may be knotted around your neck, used as trousers, worn like a huge Grizzly bear or styled in a very attractive way. Don’t forget a matchy hand-bag and the Derby shoes! Stella McCartney, Christophe Lemaire, Celine, The Row, Marc Jacobs

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Borrowed from the Man- A over-sized masculine jacket is just the right thing this season. But it shouldn’t be worn formally- a skirt giving a leg or a printed shirt will make it feminine and chic. And if you don’t fear the nipple, wear it like Anja Rubik at Anthony Vaccarello! Hermes, Anthony Vaccarello, Haider Ackermann, Maison Martin Margiela, Comme des Garcons

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Robe- this is a fresh thing- wear a robe as a coat! Or rather a coat looking like your bath-robe. Surely this option will hit the street style looks and going to dominate everywhere. Simply tie the belt around your waist and go ahead for winter! Marques Almeida, Isa Arfen, Celine, Altuzarra, Moschino

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The Queen of Gold- “The color gold is the color of success, achievement and triumph. Associated with abundance and prosperity, luxury and quality, prestige and sophistication, value and elegance, the psychology of this color implies affluence, material wealth and extravagance.” Saint Laurent, Prada, Thom Browne

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Red- This color is a warm and positive color associated with our most physical needs and our will to survive. It exudes a strong and powerful masculine energy. Ha. Thomas Tait, Rosie Assoulin, Saint Laurent, Prada, Isa Arfen, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Prabal Gurung, Sacai

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Velvet Nights- Velvet is very a ce soir. It was used in sensual gowns, jumpsuits and laser-cut gothic dresses… velvet is surely the fabric you want to wear for Winter. Erdem, Jason Wu, Tom Ford, Chanel

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Safari Girl is very sexy- the new girl in panther print is just the right think. Wear an animal printed coat with militaire khaki trousers and heels to make whole Paris yours… Rrrraawwwrrrrrr… Balmain, Givenchy, Isabel Marant, Givenchy, 

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Pastel Pink- Candy coats, girlie jackets, romantic maxi dresses… and all kept in beautiful, pale pastel pink. It looks perfect even on fur! Just note Marc Jacobs- his fur jackets were a pastel spectrum of apricot, purple and blush… simply cute! Christopher Kane, Delpozo, Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu, Rochas

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Artsy/Craftsy- It’s a bit tribal and a bit Grandma-ish. Presented on dresses, bags and tops, knitwear and hand-made fabrics where kind of everywhere. This trend is cozy and warm… while very chic and elegant! Maki Oh, Louis Vuitton, Suno, Altuzarra, Rodarte

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Volume Vs. Sheer- wearing a sheer skirt with a voluminous chunky sweater or huge, huge, huge aviator jacket is just the right thing. Why? It looks a bit elusive and very sexy… and you still can give some leg during winter. Fendi, No.21, No.21, Sacai

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Astrakhan- take out your old Astrakhan fur, and wear it like it’s new- maybe it’s not very warm, but looks luxurious, chic and elegant. MSGM used it on masculine coats, and Tom Ford made it… well, Tom Ford. MSGM, Celine, Tom Ford, Miu Miu

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Fur is Art- what only did not happen to fur this season- it was in a form of expression for the designers. But most of all, it was very cubical. And surely, colourfulFendi, 3.1. Philip Lim, Altuzarra, Roksanda Ilincic, Alexander McQueen, Marni 

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The Perfect Black Coat- I think it’s pretty logical key trend. Who doesn’t want a black coat during winter? And additionally, worn as a dress? And that Celine one with white buttons is a must-have… Celine, Lanvin, Chanel, Dior

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Werk Gurrl- Girl, work it out. Sporty chic is back for good in form of parkas, warm jackets, gym sweatshirts and tennis dresses. And, remember that your sport-wear must be colourful. Just like the one from Sacai or Wang… Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Sacai, Alexander Wang, Fendi, Miu Miu

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Happy Prints- these circles, stripes and waves just make you smile. Maybe the season was more about elegance and timeless fashion, but these 60′s/70′s prints at Prada are not a bad idea. Acne, Dries Van Noten, Prada, Valentino

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Illusion– Hypnotize yourself and your friends with a very magical dress or coat… This psychedelic trend isn’t about 60′s, but about power of illusion. I am already attracted to it like to the whole, AW14 season…

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Shrimps at Net-A-Porter

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Serving up faux fur creations with an irresistible sense of fun, London-based Hannah Weiland is one to watch. This young designer studied art history and textiles before launching Shrimps, so called because of her childhood nickname. The collection focuses on the idea of classic Breton stripes with a twist – expect supercharged color combinations and oversized cuts. The WILMA coat is the one not to missed!

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Attitude? No Problem!

MarquesAlmeida_SS14_0206_PRINTMarques Almeida is not a denim label, while it’s not totally a fashion label. With it’s Portuguese roots, London studio and denim love, the designers behind Marques Almeida know what’s buzzing. Their SS14 was a phenomen during the September LFW, and the AW14 was already the hot ticket during the recent Winter season. What really makes Almeida interesting, is that they use denim fabric not in trousers (although their pair of jeans a real fashion experience) but in everything- bras, shoes, sweaters… But denim is not only their favourite fabric. During SS14, we saw a calf leather mini-dress, and the AW14 was mostly made entirely from velvet and cute, shaggy fur (that was covering the sneakers. And they look extremely cool). The Marques Almeida is full of attitude… and it’s the new cool label from London!1-Marques-Almeida-AW14AW14
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The New Volumes

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These two women labels from New York & London are on everybody’s lips right now! Isa Arfen (London) and Rosie Assoulin (NYC), the two brands known for voluminous, joyful dresses and skirts, just showed off their recent collections for AW14… Isa Arfen was inspired with Tina Chow, who is known for her artistic and loose style, and Rosie Assoulin is a perfect fit for all kind of parties: red carpet gala to a casual brunch with the loved ones. And what’s more, these two offer us vibrant prints and strong colours to cheer up the Fall season… Surely, it’s hard not to fall in love with Isa and Rosie and their fresh labels!

Isa Arfen

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Rosie Assoulin

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Queen. Simone Rocha AW14

Slide09From all London Fashion Week designer, Mrs. Simone Rocha created the most interesting and signature collection for AW14. Noting, that each season she recreates her classical ballerina dress, the AW14 had a royal makeover- Scottish checks; golden elements embroidered on collars and sleeves; mink fur; yellow snake leather on bags and skirts. And all kept in pretty quiet, but ‘strong way, just like all Rocha collections to date. What I loved was her impressive approach to British monarchy- the pieces felt queen-ie, but not to a degree of little, pink princess. Although, some colour doze was applied here (the pink shade is absolutely lovely)! Love it.
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