Neo-Hippie. Christopher Kane Resort’15

June 20, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

What I enjoy about Christopher Kane is the fact that he can’t be tamed. Alhough he belongs to Kering group, he doesn’t hide his talent just to be more commercial. The new Resort 2015 collection is mix of his favourite things: lace, floral prints, denim and neon colours. The dresses were radiant and artsy while the pockets of jeans shorts & trousers were embroidered with beautiful flowers and insects. If talking of jewellery that’s pretty new at Kane, we had these little daisy shaped brooches that felt very childish and naive… just like the overall collection. There was also about hippie and the 60’s in here: this flower power brings peace and harmony, for goodness sake.

Men’s: Bruce Chatwin. Burberry SS15

June 19, 2014June 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Bruce Chatwin spent much of his early career specialising in the work of the impressionists – think Cézanne, Degas and Monet – at Sotheby’s. It’s always a delight when Bailey himself turns to art for his references (think back to his Hockney inspired SS14 menswear collection, or his homage to the Bloomsbury Group for AW14 womenswear). The early Parisian impressionists were pioneers of elevating ordinary subject matters through the interplay of light, brushstrokes and composition. It’s much like what Bailey achieved today. The collection was covetable, buzzing with an infectious youthful energy yet routed in something far deeper. Christopher Bailey makes Burberry a fashion house which is very open for Bristish art legacy. And that’s really good because the men collection by Burberry are again exciting and interesting! For SS15, I enjoyed most the radiant colours which are perfect for long, Summer evenings. The accessories were also here the key- the leather, printed clutches with smart texts written on; colourful sneakers; the funny Woody Allen like hats… surely that’s one of the best Burberry collections ever!

Men’s: Mens-Wear. J.W. Anderson SS15

June 18, 2014June 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson is the strange man in London fashion scene. And this menswear collection proves the point. Scarcely a promising scenario for a collection of mens-wear, but gender blurring has always been an Anderson trait, and here it yielded clothes whose softness and languor were—what else?—oddly appealing, especially in the bias-cut tops that slipped off the shoulder or the hip into loose scarf-ties. “Sleepy eroticism” was the impression he wanted to convey. The collection was one of the disturbingly hyper-normal. Why? Just see the first three looks. Cap-sleeve tops patterned after the work of octogenarian carpet designer John Allen, which were items of bucolic loveliness. True to character, Anderson felt compelled to point out the dropped pockets, which made the models stretch their arms. “A bit creepy,” he mused. “It feels normal, but it’s not.” I myself wouldn’t wear any of these clothes. But after all, I feel that Anderson makes fashion fashion, and not just something to be sold on-line (although his new web-site is amazing). More on http://j-w-anderson.com

Slouchy. J.W. Anderson Resort’15

June 17, 2014June 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

I am mesmerised. I truly love this Resort 2015 collection in case of Jonathan Anderson. It’s beautiful in it’s ugliness. Kept in calm colours of beige, grey and red, the collection reminded me of the typical British country land-scape, full of farms and valleys. There was something delicate about it too. The deconstructed shirts, origami maxi dresses and the chic black costume made of a shirt and over-sized trousers were my favourites. It somehow reminds of early Prada, at which Miuccia investigated uniforms and ugliness in fashion. This slouch way of styling, these imperfections… I am looking forward to see the continuation for this interesting idea in September, Jonathan!

PRADAsphere

May 2, 2014May 16, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Prada: A cosmos of its own composed of heavenly bodies set in a complex orbit. A universe of contradictions and endless elaborations— noble causes and base temptations— where idealism meets vanity, intelligence meets passion, fashion meets fiction. This is what the PRADAsphere is all about- a huge playground at London’s Harrods, where Miuccia Prada styled each section with her archival (and very new AW14) pieces. The collection that will last till 29th of May is a perfect occasion to remind ourselves the best Prada collections that influenced our sense of fashion and art… the SS10 crystals. The AW13 seductive checks. The SS13 modern geishas. It’s simply a Miuccia Prada wonderland (even all bags and shoes are present here in their own “eco-systems”)! The photos from the exhibition are by Susie Lau.