Jonathan Saunders created a need-right-now collection for AW14. Seriously, these funny pointy-shouldered coats and embroidered gowns look not only elegant, but also quirky and cool. With layered knitwear, blouses, silver skirts and cool varsity jackets and signature Saunders florals, it feels that the collection will be bestseller when it will hit the stores… and it’s really perfect for a casual splash in London!
London
Greek. Mary Katrantzou AW14
For winter 2014, Mary Katrantzou had a total clean mind about her new collection. She exited her main focus and went greek- “Greek! It wasn’t supposed to be” she says. But there was something about this amazing embroidery which definitely underlined this collection from all others full of digital collections. The copper pastry cutters and all things she once put into her digitalized prints, there was, perhaps, a scent of her native country in this collection. Wherever the inspiration came from, pleats that were twisted and finished to different lengths were beautifully crafted. Katrantzou reached deep into her artistic soul.
Blurred. J.W. Anderson AW14
J.W. Anderson loves playing with shape. And with silhouttes. But his AW14 was a bit blurred and unstable in fact- the gowns were made out of delicate fabrics, although looked cold. What else, it felt that Anderson wanted to move into a new direction, into something new- but this “something” was lost.
Interesting turtlenecks and shoes appeared on the runway with all those structured minimalistic forms… But the collection lacked of the designer’s freshness that was always brought on London Fashion Week runway. That was surely one of the weakest collection to date, but the most commercial.
Victoire de Castellane’s Animal Vegetable Mineral
Victoire de Castellane is the couture jewellery designer of Dior. Known for using great traditional craftsmanship with Victoire’s artistic visions of colourful life kept within the diamonds, rubies and emeralds on her mesmerizing rings and necklaces, the new exhibition called “Animal Vegetable Mineral” just opened at the Gagosian Gallery on Maifair in London. An incredible display of gem snakes and flowers rest on pools of Australian opal, reassembling micro eco-systems. The exhibition is a second solo presentation of Castellane that definitely impresses as all with it’s beauty and detailing… And here is what the designer thinks: “Well, I love to play with nature, and I love to play with family and the idea of relationships. The relation between people and nature and how we manage to live together. It’s always so complicated. It’s three worlds coming together in one world. There are three families. But in the end they are all like human beings for me, they are little human beings – my babies”. That sounds deep…
Sharply. JW Anderson Pre-Fall’14
I must admit, J.W. Anderson is smart. His androgynous fashion is definitely not time consuming for him- a week ago, on his menswear shows, Anderson showed panelled turtlenecks in different colours. And guess what- the same turtlenecks are for women in his Pre-Fall’14 collection. The collection feels a bit oriental with it’s kimono structures. The sharpness of all coats and dresses is… indeed sharp, hust like the title of this post. I also liked the colour palette that is very calm and delicate. Zennnnnnn…
Design & Culture by Ed 