Bionic, Take It Supersonic!

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Thomas Tait. This is the super human of London Fashion. The title of this post, is taken of one of the best song by Christina Aguilera, BIONIC. When I see the collection by Tait for AW13, I only hear in my head this song. It matches everything. The collection feels like if UFO came to our planet and super agents, so the models, plan the defense attack. Green clouds around, grafitti around. I think the show was presented in a garage, cause under every sit of the guests there was a car number… But coming back to the designer- The old movie Runaway about Sci Fi inspiration is clearly visible here! The clothes, well they are really cyber-superb! Kept in extra neon colours like orange, green and red, the pieces (look at these SUNGLASSES!) are really visible in the crowd. The use of fabrics is always pretty much cosmic- latex, polar mixed with leather and plastic! I love it! his is so “other”  and fresh.

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The THOMAS TAIT sign is visible everywhere with the .COM ending. Is this a metaphor for the future fashion that Thomas sees? Will be so full of HiFi, pixels and this computer staff? If yes then I don’t have anything oppose about it. One more time about sunglasses- it’s difficult to see something as REFRESHING as this! Last time I so something like this, were the Celine furry sandals. Totally different. The curvy geometric frames look so out of this worls, that I think they would bestseller on Jupiter! And maybe in London?

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Porcelain Pretty

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Porcelain figurines are usually kitsch but still very beautiful. So why shouldn’t the porcelain topic be shown in fashion? And if we can say that everything is in fashion, then there is no problem with that! Staffordshire figurines had always these amazing flower details. Spanish, for example Liardo, is advanced in hand made 3D elements like tiny flowers in baskets, embroiderment on the Geisha’s kimono and other artistic fantasies. And here I’ve taken my own pictures when I was in New York from Metropolitan Museum of Art! (These are all very mind blowing!).20130415-105853 AM.jpg20130415-105906 AM.jpg20130415-105917 AM.jpg20130415-105930 AM.jpg20130415-105942 AM.jpg

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Meadham Kirchhoff, London based label known for very kitsh collections, had a surrealistic collab with Nicolas Kirkwood- ornamented and kitsch sandals full of embroidment, flowers, colours and ribbons. Kept in mostly in pastel colours they look like cakes on feet! That’s a bit fairy tale like, but this is how it is. Who else from London thought of porcelain as a inspiration? Queen of prints, Mary Katrantzou and her archival collection. The dresses had 3D prints with tea pots, flowers, jewels- like if Katrantzou was redrawing all the porcelain figurine features. That’s so porcelain fantastic!

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Fei Feng (the graduate from Central Saint Martins) was inspired for her new haute couture collection with Ming dynasty vases and the splendor of Chinese wedding. The highly crafted detail like these flowers that move on air, or trees around the dress. Ok. Everything looks in reality ugly. And not practical. And hilarious. But still, I think it’s all very spectacular, if we have in mind that Fei did all these dresses handmade. And it matches the topic!

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Pop It. Tom Ford AW13

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Tom Ford, that is now having a rebirth of his label that was for time being making cosmetics, and really long time ago was creative director of Gucci, is debuting with his third collection on London Fashion Week. Now I’m saying this. He is my favorite of the week. His collections are for real, they’ve got fur in great amounts (sorry PETA and eco fans), luxury embroinment on skirts and pants with Chinatown inspired flowers from the elegant lounges and clubs for elite. After a serie of super luxury sportwear with animal print a bit of black minimalism came on amazing sweaters.

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Ford was also inspired with Neons/pop art. Just look at the dresses and jackets! These Kapow patterns that are known from Roy Lichtenstein art are mind blowing. And what’s very Tom, is that he didn’t put these Kapow’s everywhere- no he used it in subtel, delicate amount, mostly on maxi gowns.

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When the furs came around I thought to myself “Altuzarra and Prabal Gurung, take notes or run away”! The long, higly tailored coats with laser cut leather and white fur were breath taking! I was jst stunned.

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And the funniest part of the show was when the “zebras” came! The long evening gowns with sequined stripes in black and white were so classical but modern! Really the collection left me in many points totally stunned. And I was feeling, like if the models came out from a elite and luxury lounge somewhere in London, decorated in Chinese like ornaments and 60’s- 70’s prints… Tom Ford collection was BEST from whole London Fashion Week!

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