Men’s – Need For Speed. Loewe SS16

June 28, 2015January 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson definitely had a blast during his last trip to Asia. In a Hong Kong antique shop, he found an early 18th-century screen from Japan—koi jumping over waves—that he thought looked so modern, it influenced him and his next collection. Loewe SS16 came from attempts of gathering something old and something new – tradition, culture and innovation, technology. That’s why there was a fuse of leather, which is Loewe’s heritage, and manga prints which are usually thought of as futuristic. But also, a topic of fast cars was moved and that is clearly visible on the bags and trousers. Not everything is totally clear in here, but with this collection Anderson proves he is the designer of tomorrow – looking forward to the following day, but not forgetting about the past.

Men’s – Christ Couture. Givenchy SS16

June 27, 2015January 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Riccardo Tisci‘s latest idea for Givenchy seems to be deeply rooted in his best-selling collections from the past. As most thought he ended his exhausting journey with digital prints and t-shirts, now we know he came back on the easy ride. And again, just like few seasons ago, it is all about religion and Jesus. Jesus everywhere, on men-skirts to sweatshirts. Definitely. these will sell like hot buns… but also, this collection had its another side – Riccardo strongly based his inspirations on America and different denims shades of denim, giving everybody a clue, that True Religion might have been on one of the mood-boards: slim-fit jeans with star print worn shirtless with a cross.

However, the menswear part was shamelessly dimmed by the sudden Haute Couture collection for women. When I firstly saw Maria Carla Boscono wearing a bandeau on her head and a long chain of crucifix around her neck, I instantly thought of JLo and her famous “Ain’t it Funny” era. Then the dresses… a kind of gypsy-esque boheme which got crashed by #GivenchyGang (the models in black suites were holding jailer’s key dangling to look like Italian criminals from movies). Men’s SS16 and women’s Haute Couture had its borders between spirituality and “boys-and-girls-doing-bad-things” very blurred. Definitily this is what Riccardo Tisci wanted to demonstrate this season.

Men’s – Raw Elegance. Maison Margiela SS16

June 27, 2015January 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

That’s funny. John Galliano is the creative director of Maison Margiela, but officially he did not design the Resort collection you have seen earlier this week, and the men’s SS16 which is here. He only does women’s ready-to-wear and couture for this Parisian, ex-avantgarde house. And that is solidly visible by comparing these two collections to woman’s AW15, the latest creation of Galliano. The Margiela Resort for 2016 was a very commercial collection; the menswear line is all about raw elegance. As usually, chaotically painted vests, sheer tops with decoupage covering the chests and voluminous overalls. This collection is precisely the same thing that we saw last season… and that makes me mad because men’s Margiela used to excite me. And now the Maison Margiela studio plays it safe to keep up with the sales.

Men’s – Kissy Boy. Dries Van Noten SS16

June 27, 2015January 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Dries Van Noten knows how to steal a woman’s heart (and man’s too). He proves that once again in his newest collection for summer 2016. Marilyn Monroe and Salvador Dali. Two major inspirations combined in one collection. And with such a grace! Over-sized shirts with minuscule red lips embroideries, Marilyn Monroe’s face on coats and t-shirts, knits with lobster image – and all of that kept in a very romantic, super Parisian way. Dries remade the famous clichees (sorry Marilyn) into something new and surprisingly fresh. Keeping his signatures present throughout the collection.

Men’s – Soviet Modern. Gosha Rubchinskiy SS16

June 26, 2015January 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Gosha Rubchinkiy is the guy from Moscow, who brings on the nostalgic ideas of post-soviet Russia and its “fashion”. Soviet sportswear and Iron Curtain era was mentioned in the collection, too, by presenting the infamous symbols and dates on shirts and t-shirts. The silhouettes of jumpers were inspired by Eastern-bloc athletes (all the Russian flag colours) and the short shorts would be perfect for PE classes. Even the venue had something to do with sports – the oldest basketball gym of France was the venue of the show. But the overall effect of this collection seems to be the same as usually in case of Gosha – strong homage to his homeland and a kind of irony perceived in the air toward’s Russia today.